||For All Your Climbing Gear!
Victoria's major climbing destinations are Mt
Arapiles and the Grampians in
the west of the state and Mt Buffalo, an alpine region in the north-east.
However, a plethora of smaller crags exist. Click on a destination below to see detailed
information about selected climbs worth a look, tips and tricks of the
area, beta on featured routes, and more.
(Map of the Western
& Eastern locations).
*Mt Arapiles, Natimuk
*Mt Buffalo, Porepunka
Climbing & Bouldering In Town
(Burnley Wall PFD Guide)
Banned / Restricted Climbing
New South Wales
(1 Meg, PDF Doc)
(3 Meg, PDF Doc)
Topend Climbing Guide
*Black Hill, Kyneton
Bullengarook Quarry, Gisborne
*Camels Hump, Mt Macedon
Cobaw Bouldering, Lancefield
Devil's Kitchen, Scarsdale
Ironbark Gorge, Aireys Inlet
Leigh River Cliff, Grenville
Loddon River Falls, Glenlyon
Melton Creek Bouldering
Moorabool River Areas
*Mt Alexander, Harcourt
Mt Beckworth, Clunes
Mt Cole National Park
Mt Hope, Pyramid Hill
Mt Kooyoora, Inglewood
Mt Korong, Inglewood
Nigretta Falls, Hamilton
Turpins Falls, Redesdale
*Werribee Gorge, Bacchus Marsh
You Yangs, Geelong
*Warragul Rocks, Tallarook
*Ben Cairn, Healesville
Big Hill, Euroa
Cape Woolamai, Philip Island
*Cathedral Range, Buxton
Cobberas Region, Benambra
Felltimber (McFarlanes Hill)
Mitchell River National Park
Mt Bogong (Ice Climbing)
Mt Buller (Ice Climbing)
Mt Erica Rocks, Moe
Mt Mittamatite, Corryong
Mt Pilot, Beechworth
Mt Stanley, Beechworth
Mt Teneriffe, Euroa
Pulpit Rock, Tallarook
Rolling Stone Wall, Euroa
Seven Acre Rock, Powelltown
Whipstick Gully, Warrandyte
contact Chockstone with any feedback
or contributions. The guide is continually being updated as we
revisit our favourite local crags, but many areas of Victoria are
not yet covered, especially the eastern districts. If you would like
to write up an area, in a similar fashion, email
pictures and text to Chockstone.
Recommended Guide Books
There are literally dozens of guide books covering
all areas within Victoria, Australia. Here are a few "must
haves" to get your collection started. Most guide books are available
from local climbing shops or the
First edition 2011, Lindorf, Goding & Hodgson
A selected guide to the best rockclimbing venues in Victoria by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Sublime Climbs is a full colour, 380 page guidebook which details rockclimbing at Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians. With over 700 described routes, countless stunning images, topos and maps, this is a select Victorian guidebook that won’t disappoint.
Glenn Tempest (2002)
A Rockclimber's Guide
Chris Watson & Bill Andrews (2002)
A Rockclimber's Guide
Hampton, Robin Holmes, Paul Martin (2002)
Glenn Tempest (1999)
Buffalo (Version 5)
A Rockclimber's Guide
Kevin Lindorff & Simon
Victoria (Version 2)
A Rockclimber's Guide
Hugh Hardwick, Russ
Crow, Bill Andrews, Chris Watson (2003)
All first ascents should be sent in to the VCC
Argus Editor. These will be
recorded as documented
reported in the Argus newsletter and eventually turn up in the next printed
Reporting Unsafe Fixed Equipment
Please report bad bolts to the
Safer Cliffs Victoria effort, either
by posting to the forum
or emailing firstname.lastname@example.org. Your donations are needed
to maintain and replace un-safe fixed equipment (bolts and rap anchors) at
Victorian crags. If you are involved in rebolting, please update the
Rebolted Routes database.
Technical Information on
rebolting is available.
Australian Ewbank Grading System
Courtesy of Ewbank himself...
The English grading system has been abused in Australia since 1951. Without discussing the why’s and wherefores, I shall try to explain the revolutionary system here. There is no “mild” or “hard” subdivisions. (e.g. “mild” severe, “hard” very difficult). No inferior or superior subdivisions (Dolomites system). e.g. 5 ‘Inf’. 6 ‘Sup’,
No letters (S. Africa) e.g. El, E2, A, G.
The 'Tarquitze Rock Decimal System' (U.S.A)
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 5.1 to 5.10, 6.1 to 6.6.
My head is spinning already.This system is the simplest used so far, to my knowledge, in the world, It also has a chance of working. None of the others are doing so too well at present. This system starts, it has no finish. There are no sub-divisions. Each grade has its own separate number.
Grading takes the following into consideration. Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors. As these are more or less all related to each other, I have rejected the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty, one for protection etc. Instead the climb is given its one general grading, and if any of the other factors is
outstanding, this is stated verbally in the short introduction to that climb, e.g.
'Freds Frolic’ 17. 302’-6”
A fine climb, marred by poor rock at (crux) and poor protection on 4th pitch. etc, etc.
I feel that this system will soon be accepted, and the Americans seem to be thinking of something along similar lines.
As far as protection goes, the general terms “good”, “fair”, “poor” are used. However, it should be noted that I have taken the use of modern gear into account, and therefore this point will vary according to the individual, the amount of "silent aids" he carries and his ability to use them.
The system being used for grading mechanical climbs or pitches is similar to above, without so many different grades. The top grades of mechanical climbing in England is classed A.4. As pegging (‘Artificial’ ~ ‘Mechanical’) is as variable in difficulty as free climbing., I have added more numbers on, with the prefix of the letter ‘M’. A climb with a mechanical pitch and free climbing would be graded say, 15. M.3.
If a climb uses only one pitch (sic – should read piton. Ed.) for physical aid, the climb is graded free and the piton mentioned. If a climb uses two or any number of pitons for physical aid, but they are separated by free moves then the climb is still regarded as free with aid. For example: Pitch 3. 60’. (crux). Straight up the groove, ‘4 pitons for aid’. However if two aids are used in succession with no free climbing in between., then that particular section is regarded as mechanical. A climb, may therefore be free, aided, and mechanica1, though only the two grades are used - i.e. 18 and M.5. while the aided portion of the climb is described verbally in the description.
The easiest mechanical grade (M.1.) therefore applies to such things as two firm bolts, close together, in any easy position on good rock.
Guide Books - For the aforementioned printed guides and many more.
Open Spaces Photography - For the
excellent Mentz & Tempest guide books.
The Crag.com - Simons list of 10,000 routes in Victoria!
Online Guides - Covers several Grampians areas developed by Neil. Free
climbing, bouldering, etc. Coming soon is a guide to Victorian ice
VI-Bouldering - For bouldeirng
info in Victoria, Australia and beyond. Popular forum.
Rock Climbing.com - Their list of crags and routes, managed by Neil.
Page - Descriptions of routes Will has climbed in numerous areas of
NSW, VIC & QLD.
Boulder Lounge - Includes an on-line bouldering guide to some areas of
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