Dec 2005: This is now somewhat out of date. See PDF for latest guide.
This is a new area for climbing at Mt Alexander discovered by Chris Cope and Phil Robertson, who bagged many of the first ascents back 1993. It can be found by following the walking track from Dog Rocks up to the summit of Mt Alexander (or in the reverse direction down from the summit). It's about halfway along this track, and can be identified by the large slab block (pictured right) situated only a few metres from the walking track on the high side. It's in clear view and is the largest block on the track. A considerably faster, but way tougher and less ecologically friendly approach can be obtained by parking at the road (assuming you know where) and busk whacking straight down. (See: map).
Above Right: The dominate main slab block at Scorpion Rocks. All routes are described in relation to standing below this large block.
On the far left of this slab block you'll find a
crack climb. If you start at ground level its a horrendous flaring beast
requiring sinking double hand-jams, smearing both feet on air and muscling
up, whilst your body weight hangs off one jammed hand in the rough
granite. I suggest you save yourself the pain & blood and cheat past
the start. The
remainder of the crack offers fun lay backing until it widens to an easy
top out (pictured left).
Above Left: The top out for the aforementioned crack climb. Yet to be named, very approximately 10m, grade 16 (skipping the start), or grade 18 (including the start). Above Right: Adrian eyes the bolt, on an FFA attempt of Sustain The Pain (23); centre of the main slab block.
To the right of this, on the main slab block (pictured above), there are three bolted lines with fixed hangers. A sport climber's dream, the crimp fest ranges in grade; left side 24, middle 23, right side 23. The three lines are hard from start to finish, but if you're climbing strong at these grades, should offer excellent climbing on small edges and flakes. The lines were put up by Chockstone team member Kent in 2001/2002.
Below: Kent fires into the crux on an FFA attempt of Territorial Pissings (23) right side of the main slab block. See the video clip (3.4 Meg, 55 seconds). The is crux making and passing the last clip, to dyno the victory hold which is a flake "jug" that flexes.
Below Left: 6m grade 21 slab "Poised To
Strike". Three bolts to glory.
Quite painful on the fingers and toes, but never-the-less enjoyable
micro-edging. Below Middle: The 7m under-cling flake right of the
aforementioned slab. Goes at grade 20, and is a serious lead on trad gear.
Below Right: Stay Perfectly Still (15) a 5m hand crack
situated below the walking track.
Below Left: The 6m grade 18 corner crack "A
Sting in the Tail" with
a tricky exit can be found above and left of the main slab block. Below
Right: Steve's slab project, what 13m? maybe grade 22? Follows the
right arÍte, then heads left. One bolt at the top.
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