Goto Chockstone Home

  
 
 
  Articles
  Reviews
 
 
 
  Search
 

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop


Bad Moon Rising Wall, Grampians
 [ Grampians Overview | Images | PDF | Forum ]
  Quick Stats
Climbs *** ** * Hardest Longest Rock Access
12 0 2 4 24 30m Sandstone 20 mins

PDF Guide[ This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing nmoneith@yahoo.com. ]

Jackie Bernardi on the second ascent of All the Way to Eleven (22).This wall resides at Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria. These are the slabby streaked walls between Tribute Wall and Van Diemanís Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for many years until this guide was being written.

A few weekends and the area sprung from only two easy routes to quite a collection of nice climbs. Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The Chicken. Cliff faces into the sun most of the day.

Location: Walk through the Tribute Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is Bad Moon Rising Wall. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Diemanís Land Amphitheatre. Routes described right to left.
Click To Enlarge Topo

Above: Topo shot of wall. Above Right: Jackie Bernardi on the second ascent of All the Way to Eleven (22). Below Right: James Pfrunder on the first ascent of All the Way to Eleven (22).

1: Raunchy Rooster 18m 22* [Sport]
Another good sport route. Surprisingly easy if you can crimp hard. Furthest right most bolted route near the entrance of the chasm. Four UB's and a FH. Second bolt is a scary clip. Lower-off using anchors above Rage And Ruin. Mike File 2005-07-23

2: Rage And Ruin 18m 23* [Sport]
Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Located on far right side of wall at rightwards arching undercling flake. Layback up flake to start for 2m, then blast straight up the thin face above to horizontal. Up slightly right on orange streak to last bolt. Fight directly up to top. Six u-bolts and double RB lower-off. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File 2005-07-03

James Pfrunder on the first ascent of All the Way to Eleven (22)3: All the Way to Eleven 18m 22* [Sport]
Start as for, and clip first two bolts on, Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak & up the orange headwall past a further 3 U's and a FH (6 bolts in total). Needs a lower off anchor. James Pfrunder, Jackie Bernardi and a cast of thousands 2005-07-31

4: Black Streak Project 20m 0 [Trad]
Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+

5: Chicken Head Hunter 25m 23** [Sport]
Elegant face route in a similar vein to Diazepam. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off. Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder 2005-07

6: Revenge Of The Chickens 25m 24** [Sport]
The best route on this cliff. Start as for Chicken Head Hunter. Up this to bolt three, then step left and follow line of UB's up the increasingly pumpy and difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off. Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matheson & Neil Monteith 2005-07-20

7: Bitten Finger 22m 17 [Mixed]
The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate. Will Monks & Ben Cirulis.

8: Headless Chickens 22m 15 [Trad]
2m L of Bitten Fingers. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams. Ben Cirulis & Will Monks.

9: Octohexarian 27m 8 [Trad]
The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards. Starts about 10m right of Bad Moon Rising and 4m left of Headless Chickens. Unknown 1980ís

10: Bite The Hand 23m 11* [Trad]Jo on a new grade 17 arete.
Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of Bad Moon Rising below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top. Descend via double u-bolts above Revenge Of The Chickens Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker 2005-07-02

11: Bad Moon Rising 30m 14 [Trad]
The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack. James McIntosh & Melanie Taws 1986-11-08

12: Puddlejugs 20m 17 [Trad]
The prominent arete left of the Bad Moon Rising corner. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arÍte, and follow the right-hand crack to the top. Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman 2005-07-31.


Home
| Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
All text, images and video on this site are copyright. Unauthorised use is strictly prohibited.