||For All Your Climbing Gear!
Welcome to the Tech Tips section of Chockstone. Here
you'll find a few ideas documented from various climbing mentors and
other resources that might get you out of trouble.
However, please don't trust your life to something you read on the internet. Get a
good book, qualified instruction, or at least test things on or close to
the ground first. No claim is made as to the accuracy or suitability of
the tech tips. (Please
read the full disclaimer).
Carabiner Brake Rappel - How to abseil when you've dropped your
Backing Up An Abseil - A few of the
many methods to backup a rappel.
Passing A Knot On Abseil - One method
of rapping past a knot.
Ascending A Rope - Need to ascend the rope? Try
using two prusiks.
Hauling The Second - How to hoist your
second past the crux.
Equalising Anchors - How far can you
afford to spread 'em?
Cordelette 101 -
Equalising anchors the fast way!
Self Unclipping Quickdraw - How not to clip a
Stick Clipping - How to cheat past a
Improvising A Chest Harness - Staying
upright on the rope.
Reaching High Nut Placements - A
quick tip to placing a nut just out of reach.
Racking Accessory Cord - One method
of racking your prusik loops.
Racking Cordelette - One method
of racking your cordelette.
Making Tape Gloves - Crack climbers
Building A Home Climbing Gym - The
infamous backyard or basement "Woodie".
Stupid Mistakes To Avoid - When leading, belaying and
Solo Aiding a Beginners Intro - Link to forum post by Michael Woods.
The Mental Toughness Error
Training Advice from Arno Ilgner.
Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous
Training Advice from Arno Ilgner.
Avoiding The Pump - Lactic Acid Info from Jacqui Middleton.
Tape and Other Catastrophes- Taping fingers to avoid further injury? From Dr Julian Saunders.
Leading Overhangs - Climbing roofs, overhangs and bulges. From Phil Box.
Leading On One Rope Or Two? - From
Robin, Owen and others.
Introduction To Leader Rescue
on belayer rescuing leader. From Phil Box.
Aiding Out Of Trouble - How
to aid past the crux of a free climb. From Phil Box.
A Comfortable Hanging Belay - Rope
management, belay pods, etc. From Phil Box.
- Ascending a rope with a Jumar
and GriGri. From Phil Box.
Tyrolean Traverse - How
to span a chasm and retrieve gear. From Phil Box.
Bolts - Bad
bolts, replacements tips, etc. From Neil Monteith.
Sandstone Bolting - Strength & reliability of
chemically bonded rock climbing anchors in sandstone. From Stephen Hawkshaw.
Soft Rock Bolting Guide - By Mike Law (PDF).
Protecting An Abseil -
Of Friction Knots by Dr Ron Farmer.
Figure Eight Follow Through - The
classic "tie in" knot.
Figure Eight On A Bight - Useful
for backing up, belay set ups, etc.
In-line Figure Eight - Can be
used to anchor the rope.
Double Figure Eight - Bunny Ears.
Used to equalise two anchors.
Rethreaded Figure Eight - Used for
joining two ropes.
Double Fisherman's - Used for joining two ropes, or making a loop of
Overhand Knot - Used for
joining two ropes. Least likely to get stuck.
Double Bowline - Alternative "tie
in" knot, easier to untie, but with disadvantages too.
- Friction knot, can be used to ascend a rope, backup an abseil, etc.
Klemheist & Autoblock -
Friction knots similar to the Prusik, but movable under load.
Bachman - Friction knot that
incorporates a carabiner "handle".
Clove Hitch - A useful knot for
belay set ups. Easy to adjust.
Munter Hitch - A knot that can be
used to belay and abseil (rappel).
Slip Knot - Useful for slinging horns
Mariner's Knot - Useful for transferring
a load. Releasable under load.
Garda Hitch - Knot that allows the
rope to move in one direction only.
Stopper Knot - Handy as a backup, and
Girth Hitch - Also known as a Lark's
Alpine Butterfly - A useful in-line
No Knot - For tying off a tree.
Please contact Chockstone if you believe
there is a mistake in any of the Tech Tips above, or you have a suggestion for
inclusion in this section. I have taken all possible care in the
preparation of the Tech Tips, but take no responsibility for anything that
happens to you. Use your own judgement.
|"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
The Freedom of the Hills,
Rescue - Recommended books.
Topics - On Dawn's climbing FAQ.
Articles - From Time Outdoors web site.
Magazine's Tech Tips - The US Mag. Every issue usually contains
Archive of Rock Climbing
Moves & Tips - Details of actual body movements. Good for beginners.
Tips - Compilation of trad climbing tips on an old rec.climbing
To Self Belay - From The Rock Zone in the UK.
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