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The Tower, Victoria Range, Grampians
 [ Grampians Overview | Images | Map | PDF | Forum | Trip Reports ]
  Quick Stats
Climbs *** ** * Hardest Longest Rock Access
13 2 4 2 26 70m Sandstone 35 mins

*** This page is now out of date. See PDF (Nov-2006) for latest version.

Download PDF Guide[ This guide contributed by Neil Monteith (8/12/2004). Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing nmoneith@yahoo.com. Download printer friendly PDF version. ]

Kent Paterson pulls the crux sloper crimps of Terror of the Sea (25/26)Malcolm Matheson on pitch 2 of Inspector Gadget (24)30-40min access
Shade until 5pm
Protected from light rain

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kents mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby Scoop Rocks. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003.

Above Right: Malcolm Matheson on pitch 2 of Inspector Gadget (24). Above Far Right: Kent Paterson pulls the crux sloper crimps of Terror of the Sea (25/26).

The Tower is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wallon its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality comparable to the Bluffs at Arapiles. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for Taipan Wall this place is hard to beat. The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect. A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms.

Access to this crag is quite complex and requires either a personal tour guide or a detailed map. For detailed access information please contact Neil Monteith on nmonteith@yahoo.com or 0421 994 290.

Click To Enlarge

1] Jugging Through the Stratosphere 60m 10
Juggy wall of chicken heads about 20m left of Iron Arms. Choose your own adventure. The easy way to summit to retrieve the bail-off gear from the main wall! FFA Gay Welders Union 2003

2] Iron Arms 45m 24 **
Two pitches of pumpy orange wall climbing. Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest (medium cams). Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain. Second pitch (grade 20) steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear. Rap off sling. FFA Pitch 1 Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 11th May 2003. FFA Pitch 2 Neil Monteith 22nd November 2003.

3] Popeyed 40m 23 ***
Youd better eat some spinach first! The original line and possibly still the best. Obvious right leading crackline on left side of main wall about 4m right of Iron Arms. Pocketed wall off terrace at L end of orange Step R at overlap, then hard moves to R leading diagonal and then weakness to ledge. Continue up corner moving R at the overhang. Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton 11th November 1993.

4] See the Light 27m 22 ***
The easist line up the main wall - but far from a cakewalk. Rock quality does not get better than this. Start as for Terror of the Sea. Climb past first bolt to horizontal (medium cam). Traverse left following horizontal past BR to reach Popeye line. Instead of traversing left, climb straight up to BR and onwards on amazing rock past BR and finally a FH. Pump like a fiend to surmount the final bulge and reach the clip-and-go rap anchor. Single rope is fine for lower off. FFA Kent Paterson October 2004

5] Terror of the Sea 40m 25/26 **
Immaculate rock and a very tough crux. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave. Second pitch (22) swings right past two RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Has been led as one giant pitch. Bring some medium/large cams on the first pitch and some smaller gera for the second pitch. Pitch 1 Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 31 November 2003. Pitch 2 Neil Monteith 25th January 2004.

6] Inspector Gadget 40m 24 **
A very height dependant grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Pitch 1 18m 24 - Starts up Terror of the Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FHs. Traverse right across slab at last FH to cave and belay on #3.5 camalot, big nut and #2 friend. Pitch 2 20m 22 - Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange cracked wall. 2 BRs, 1 RB and small-medium trad gear. Double ring lower off (double ropes required). Fantastic rock and moves the entire way. Kent Paterson & Tim Le 7.2.2004

Topo of routes. Click To Enlarge.7] Project Neil "Toar"
Line of ringbolts 10m right of Terror of the Sea. Stay off this please. Bolted late 2003.

8] Super Mario Bros. 20m 25 **
One crazy move. Prominent hanging arete on right side of The Tower. Stickclip 3rd FH on face then make a huge jump from opposite shelf to huecos on the lip. Bouldery climbing past 2 more FHs leads to easier crack climbing. Bring .5 to 2 cams and a few wires for excellent easy crack finish. Double bolt lower off. Direct start past two FHs is an open project which requires a big cairn to start. FFA Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith 22nd November 2003.

9] Grease Me Up Laddie 70m un-graded
Squeeze into slot under Super Mario Bros (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of The Tower heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave. Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches) 11th May 2003

10] Red Right Hand 17m 26 *
Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of Super Mario Bros. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off. FFA Gareth Llewllin 17th January 2004

11] Olive Oyl 18m 19
Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeye and in centre of wall on a separate buttress below Super Mario Bros. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt 11th May 2003.

12] Goil 11m 22
Small south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt 11th May 2003

13] Donkey Kong Jnr 10m 23 *
Located on north east side of The Tower and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blobs holds. One very high first BR and two RBs lead to DRB lower off. FFA Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith 22.2.2004.

 


Further Reading:   Push For The Summit
Grampians Selected Climbs - Guide book authored by Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest and available from local climbing shops or the VCC.

 


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