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to the choss pile! It's unclear exactly why anyone would bother with this
little area when the quality granite of Black
Hill is so close by. There are only three routes. Two are bolted,
while the third (the grade 19), is a trad line with more loose rock than
stable. To access the quarry head out of Kyneton on Pipers Creek road for
about 1.1km, then turn down Baynton road for another 2.8km until you find a gate on your right just before a small rise in
the road. (See: approach map).
From your initial view of the quarry (pictured
right), you'll find the very over graded 24 "Black Anarchy" (more like 20/21) taking the
blackish arÍte on the left with fixed chain links bolted to the rock
every few feet up to double bolts with chains to lower off (pictured
below). The chossy
grade 19 "Russian Roulette" heads up to the tree in the middle of the cliff. The thin face
climbing of "Copperhead Road", past four carrot bolts is the grade 22 on the right of the wall, which
begins at the graffiti.
Above: Kent leading "Black Anarchy", the grade 24 (more like 20/21) bolted arÍte
climb. See the gallery page
for the full sequence. Beware this route contains a fractured, TV sized,
semi-detached block just below and right of the chains, which you'll need
to haul on. There's a couple of reachy moves, and it gets pumpy quick, but
its actually rather fun, at least as the second.
Above Left: Ben investigating the chossy 10m grade 19 trad line
"Russian Roulette" - the name says it all. Above
Middle: Kent bouldering on the 12m grade 22, thin face climbing on the
right of the cliff called "Copperhead Road". Above Right:
Close up of "Copperhead Road".
Climbs At The Kyneton Quarry
Victoria, A Rockclimbers Guide - A climbing guide book, edited by
Chris Watson, Bill Andrews and Michael Hampton and available from local
climbing shops, or the VCC.
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