There isn't much to climb at the very summit of Mt Alexander. However, if you're totally sick of Dog Rocks & Wabbit Wocks it might be worth a peek. Finding the place should be easy. (See: map). Simply drive to the car park below the TV towers, where all the tourists mill for a chance to gaze out across the landscape, and, braving their frowns, plunge into the bush to the left of the main lookout outcrop - the one with the big flat area on top ("The Balconies", pictured right), that offers an uninterrupted view back towards Bendigo. Work your way down the left side of the outcrop and you'll see a section (pictured below left) where the rock rises up on either side of you offering a few potential routes.
Right: "The Balconies" offering a view from Lang's Lookout, in this case during a dry summer. Below Left: Adrian seconding my lead of an unknown line (around grade 15 or 16) on the left side of the Balconies area, which has a few routes. The line has a couple of bolts, one on the face and another just around the arÍte shown. Another bolt sits atop, useful for a belay or top rope set-up. The crack to Adrian's right (pictured) has a couple of bolts near it as well. The opposite wall also has interesting face climbing with a belay bolt at the top, I believe.
There are other bolts here and there allowing for top rope sets ups. You'll just have to look for them. If you peer over the lip of the lookout block (or fight your way down the fun chimney in the centre), you should see a wide secondary ledge not far below. (I'm sitting on it, in the picture shown left). There's a single belay bolt on the left there somewhere. The face climbing that leads up to this bolt (pictured left) is probably the pick of the routes at Lang's Lookout. I'd call it around grade 15 or 16.
If you continue around to the base of the Balconies you'll be presented with a wicked chimney crack (pictured right). I've no idea how hard it would be, but its looks like it might swallow you whole and spit out the pips. The face just left of it looks like it might have potential too.
Right: Chimney crack at the base of the Balconies, beckons the brave and fool hardy alike.
Back at the summit car park, if you instead dive off
into the bush on the right (as you enter the car park), you'll immediately
come to a short drop (pictured below). This is a very short, easy climb,
"Rakes Of Mallow" 8m, grade 14, with a
crack start leading up to a mini-roof top out. See pictures below.
Left: Adrian solos "Rakes Of Mallow" 8m, grade 14, in his hike boots.
Below Right: Kent boulders the opening moves of the horrendous, unnamed splitter crack. Approx 7 or 8 metres of pain.
For a more strenuous outing you'll need to bush bash down and right from the above climb until you come across the large boulder split down the middle (pictured below). The crack starts as hand size then opens wider and wider. It's one hell of a work out and I don't suggest leading it. Kent (pictured below right), once lead it with a few falls it and I seconded, with many a hangdog. I've no idea of the grade, but unless you're an off-width master I'd say around 18-20. You can either lay back on sloped edges (and place gear blindly), or jam. The jamming turns from hands to arm bars that will cut you to ribbons and reduce you to complete exhaustion within seconds. The lay back burns your forearms to cinders and is as precarious as all hell. If you're looking for a fat burning, full body workout, look no further.
"Alex The Wonder Dog" an 8m, grade 14 climb exists back up towards the road a bit and slightly further away again from the car park. (Pictured below, left). It has one bolt in the block above the vertical crack. I've no idea of the quality having not climbed it myself.
Left: The lads stuffing around in the start of "Alex The Wonder Dog", 8m, grade 14 - up the crack to ledge, then single bolt protects the summit block.
This is one location that will require some scouting around. Hey, you may even find a new route. Good luck!
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