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Grampians Sport Climbing - Grade 25 and Under

 [ Grampians Overview | Map ]
 

By Neil Monteith

The Grampians National Park contains some of the most aesthetic and challenging sport routes in the country. Sweeping orange walls, huge heucos and steep caves are the usual attraction for sport climbers. Most of the climbs require good sloper technique, forearms of steel and the ability to monkey across steep territory. Crimpers are not common in the Grampians. Victorian climbers are still living somewhat in the dark ages when it comes to sport climbing when compared to our New South Wales brethren. Climbs still have to be committing and adventurous with some long runouts between bolts. Ringbolts are not common so retreating midway up a route usually requires a bail biner. These old attitudes are slowly changing but a fair degree of care needs to be taken when setting off into unknown territory.

Unlike places like Nowra or the Blue Mountains, the Grampians does not have many pure sport climbing areas. This is mainly because it is a highly protected National Park, where thousands of tourists visit each year to view and experience nature. Shiny bolts near tourist walking tracks are very frowned open by Parks Victoria so most of these crags require walk ins to places far off the beaten track. If you are climbing near tourists try not to draw attention to yourself. Don’t leave quickdraws or ropes on routes overnight as they are highly visible.

Most of the areas listed in this guide only contain two or three sport routes under grade 25 but may also contain easier trad routes. This is because much of the rock is of superb quality and takes good natural gear. A few of these selected climbs may need one or two bits of natural gear to make them saner. It is always a good idea to sling a few wires or cams in the bag before setting out to climb any routes in the Grampians, even when they are marked as pure sport climbs. Climbs that need natural gear will be described with the exact gear required and be marked with the (!) symbol. Routes are also graded from zero to three stars ***. I have not included choss routes in this guide. Even zero star routes are worth climbing.

This is only a suggested route list - it is not a guidebook. Many of these areas are featured in the excellent Grampians Selected Climbing Guide by Tempest/Mentz. The newer crags have online guides or downloadable PDF guidesheets. Get the beta, get in your car and get on some of Australia's best sport routes!


Van Diemans Land     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
14 Routes
Grades 18 - 25
35 minute walk in
Morning sun

This is a great place for the under 25 sport climber. Big heucos, lot s of bolts and a great viewing platform give this place an edge on all other sport mid grade crags. The walk in is the only drawback. It is a nice enough walk and you can sample some other routes along the way at places like Amnesty Wall and Cut Lunch Wall.

Physical Graffiti 15m 21
What a way to start a guidebook! A bolted corner crack on somewhat loose rock. The climbing is great however and this route offers a much better warmup route than The Dope Man.. Some of the bolts are not that great.

Terminal Insomnia *** 25m 22
The best sport route at the grade in the Grampians. Excellent rock, tricky route finding at the crux and pumpy as hell. The horn jug is a great relief. The last 8m is runout but only about grade 10. If you get scared easily bring some medium wires for this corner crack topout.

Warped Spasm ** 20m 25
Soft touch for the grade with some funky powerful pocket pulling. A couple of scary moves above the third FH makes things exciting.

Cosmic Psycho *** 20m 24
One of the best 24s around although most think it is fairly soft for the grade. Great heuco pulling at the start leads to thin holds and exposed final arete.

Blond Ambition * 20m 24
Neil Monteith on Sisters of Mercy (23), photo Jacqui Middleton
A tougher and not so nice version of Cosmic Psycho. If you can crimp hard this is good route to try.

Sisters of Mercy *** 25m 23 (!)
Excellent rising and very pumpy traverse line. Awesome heucos at the start lead to very tricky boulder problem finish onto slab. Bring a few medium cams to make the traverse saner. Cleaning this route from the rap chain is a bitch.

Right: Neil Monteith on Sisters of Mercy (23), photo Jacqui Middleton.

Motley Crue 15m 25
Rarely repeated sandbag. Horizontals leading leftwards.

Billy Ray Cyrus 15m 23
Rarely repeated and doesn’t look that pretty. Similar to Motley Crew but on bigger holds.

The Dope Man 5m 18

THE testpiece short sport route of the Grampians! Failure is not an option if you want to hold your head high around the campsite.

Body Count ** 25m 24
Sustained and steep corner with some funky moves. One of the best lines at this crag but the first five metres isn’t that great. Some of the bolts are looking a little worse for wear. Much harder than Cosmic Psycho.

Suicidal Tendencies 35m 25
Two pitches. Both bloody hard. The line isn’t that great but the rock is good quality.

My Bloody Valentine * 30m 24
Another sandbag unless you can pull two fingers pockets easily. Steep wall with not much for your hands or feet!

Jane's Addiction * 15m 24
Good looking route with a difficult to reach start. Does not get repeated often.


The Gallery     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Guide | Images
6 Routes
Grades 23-25
45 minute walk in
Afternoon sun and rain protected

An amazing juggy cave of the best rock that the Grampians can offer. Most of the routes here are hard and sustained. The easier lines tend to be real pumpers with no difficult technical cruxes. If the weather is crap then head to the Gallery rain, hail or snow.

Mr Meat * 24m 25
Sharp pockets to start and exposed arete to finish.

Weaveworld *** 25m 23
The best sport route in the Grampians at the grade. Classic orange jugs through cave lead to exposed and thin arete finish. The top half used to be trad but the addition of a bolt and a lower-off and made this the most popular and repeated sport route in the Grampians. If you can only climb one route in the Grampians make it this one.

Chain of Fools ** 15m 23
Two Tribes (24) - Muscle boy Aaron Jones thugs through the lower moves.
Similar to Weaveworld but without the arete finish. The crux is the final move over the last roof. An easier tick than Weaveworld if you can withstand the pump.


Two Tribes *** 15m 24 (!)
Fantastic jug hauling up the best rock that sandstone can produce. The final pull over the roof is the pumper crux.

Right: Aaron Jones on Two Tribes (24), Photo Lee Skidmore.

Hueco Dreaming 9m 25
A good soft tick for the grade if you can solve the crux. Steep roof climbing on big scoops. Take care not to deck out clipping the last bolts.

Texas Nightmare * 12m 25
Rarely repeated because it is hard for the grade. Scoopy orange roof with some scary clips.


Amnesty Wall     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
3 Routes
Grades 17-24
15 minute walk in
Morning sun and rain protected

These are new sport routes not included in the Tempest guide. A great area hidden around right from Sandanista Wall. These climbs are on a slightly overhung wall which has a few baddie traddie routes on them. Ignore these horror shows and start clippin’ them bolts.

Sting Like a Bee * 20m 24Jacqui Middelton on The Tyrants Grasp (22), Photo Neil Monteith
Pocketed left leading seam with rings on left side of crag. Not that hard for the grade but with a tricky move near the end.

The Tyrants Grasp ** 18m 22
One of the best easier sport routes in the Grampians. Positive pockets and heucos up a steep wall with lots of nice ringbolts. No real crux so go for the onsight if you can pump hard enough. It is the line of rings just left of the very pocketed black water streak. Stick clip the first bolt.

Right: Jacqui Middelton on The Tyrants Grasp (22), Photo Neil Monteith

Un-named Bolted Arete 20m 21/23
Easy arete with lots of big FH’s is grade 17 to the first chain. From the chain the pillar above can be climb on the left side (23) or the right side (21). Some of the rock isn’t that great.


Sentinel Cave
     Push For The Summit
Guide | PDF | Images
5 Routes
Grades 17-23
15 minute walk in
Afternoon sun and rain protected

A shady steep cave only minutes from Stapylton Campsite. Most of these routes are well bolted with rings and lower-offs. The rock is coarse and similar to the Blue Mountains. The cave tends to stay dry in light rain and the wind tends to stay away.

Half Shark Half Man 14m 17
One of the only sub 20 sport leads in the Grampians. Not a great line but does offer some fun moves down low. It is a little runout above the second ring. A few bits of trad could be useful if you are pushing yourself at this grade.Nick McKinnon on Stepping on Snakes (23), Photo Neil Monteith

Media Puzzle * 16m 23
Very bouldery start (V3) then relents to nice jug hauling up orange face and exposed finish.

Roof of Doom 35m 22 (!)
Novelty traverse with a big roof at the end. A few #4 cams make the easy traverse sane.

Stepping on Snakes ** 14m 23
Very popular steep cave route with a few difficult cruxes. The final lunge for the roof lip sorts the strong from the weak. Very well bolted.

Right: Nick McKinnon on Stepping on Snakes (23), Photo Neil Monteith

Dwarf Pumper 8m 20
It might be short but it still is pumpy. The Dope Man of Sentinel cave. Take care lowering off single final ring.


The Watchtower     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Guide | Images
3 Routes
Grades 18-22
7 minute walk in
Morning sun

This crag doesn’t look amazing at first glance but hidden amongst the grey choss are plenty of quality routes including a few sport gems. Within walking distance of Halls Gap this place is certainly worth a visit if you enjoy face routes.
Emily Butler on Jugular Pulse grade 21.

Empty Pockets 15m 18 (!)

Rounded arete with a few old carrot bolts then a few bits of trad to finish. Not a classic.

Jugular Pulse * 20m 21
Great face climb on featured pimply rock. Runout above the second bolt.

Right: Emily Butler on Jugular Pulse (21), photo Neil Monteith

Silvertop ** 20m 22
A real gem of a face route. There is nothing much else like this in the Grampians. Follows a seam up an elegant grey wall. Rings all the way.


Red Rocks     Push For The Summit
Guide | PDF | Images
7 Routes
Grades 19-25
15 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

Varied sport climbing up some beautiful rock architecture. This area is a great place to spend a hot summers day as the routes are hidden inside gullies. With a short walk in and a variety of grades this place should be more popular.

Vertebrae * 15m 19 (!)
Not quite a sport route but fun none the less. Bouldery scoops leads to thin arete. Three bolts and a #0.5 cam and big wire to finish.

Conflict of Interest * 25m 20
Long sustained nubbin face climbing with an overhung start. Lots of rings.

Variance ** 18m 24 (!)
Orange face with some funky slopers and a long reach at the end. A few small cams protect the middle cracked bulge.

Static Ticking Rampage * 20m 22
Nick McKinnon flashes the second ascent of Spinal Tap (23).
Orange scooped wall with lots of rings and a desperate bouldery finish. A good rest ledge midway up helps to regains some juice for the upper half.

Strike the First Blow ** 17m 25 (!)

Beautiful orange rock with some bouldery thin moves up a faint overhung arete. Hopefully the fixed wire is still in place so it is a proper sport route!

Wave of Mutilation ** 12m 24
Some of the best orange rock in the Grampians. Shame about the length of this route. Intense boulder problem from start to finish.

Spinal Tap * 20m 23
If it wasn’t for the lurking wall behind, this route would be three stars. Orange scooped face with numerous powerful cruxes hidden in gully. Lots of bolts makes it safe.

Right: Nick McKinnon on Spinal Tap (23), photo Neil Monteith


Cut Lunch Walls     Push For The Summit
Guide | PDF | Images
6 Routes
Grades 18-25
25 minute walk in
Morning sun

Orange polished sandstone of the highest quality. The wall overhangs slightly giving a good pump workout. This area has climbs similar to Taipan Wall in style and rock features but is much shorter and better protected. Getting to the main wall requires climbing a single pitch to the halfway ledge – Raindancer being the only sport route to this ledge. Most routes are ringbolted.

Raindancer 20m 21+
Juggy face with a desperate crimpy crux in the middle. Good approach pitch for the upper Cut Lunch Walls routes.

Twisted Horizons 20m 21 (!)Malcolm Matheson on Wired (22), photo Neil Monteith
Mostly bolted wandery juggy face route with a little loose rock. A medium cam helps the runout above the second bolt.

Wired ** 20m 22
Excellent rock and slopey moves with a killer steep face finish. Ringbolts all the way. The crux can be baffling to gym bunnies.

Right: Malcolm Matheson on Wired (22), photo Neil Monteith.

Tender Hooks * 18m 24
Superb orange rock and some tricky moves down low. Good training for Taipan Wall.

The Big Payback ** 17m 25
What sport climbing is all about. Orange scoops, bouldery moves and a huge throw for the crux. Lots of ringbolts.

Glue Pot Drive 9m 18
One for the belay slave. Difficult grey face on crimpers and small pockets. Has stumped at least one grade 26 leader! Take care lowering off single last ring.


Curiosity Crag     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
6 Routes
Grades 22-25
20 minute walk in
Afternoon sun and rain protected

This crag is more similar to the Blue Mountains than the typical steep Grampians crag. Vertical face climbing on small edges in a nice shady setting. Most climbs are sustained and require good crimp strength and footwork. The last three routes are steep fun routes on a rain protected wall.

The Generator Route 12m 22 (!)Tim Le on The Generator Route (22), photo Neil Monteith
Spaced bolts up a crimpy face. The last few metres requires some natural gear as does the belay.

Right: Tim Le on The Generator Route (22), photo Neil Monteith.

Careful with that Axe, Liam ** 30m 23 (!)
Very sustained crimping up a vertical face. A few bits of medium sized natural gear are required after the sixth bolt.

Curiosity Killed the Black ** 30m 25 (!)
A harder and thinner version of Careful with that Axe. Quite a bit of natural gear is needed for the middle.

Tarzan's Swing * 16m 22
The definition of a fun sport route. Juggy steep arete with bolts and a lower off. The runout between bolts three and four is a little scary.

Densei * 15m 24
Ringbolted steep wall on horizontals and pockets. Stay dry during rain.

The Organiser 12m 25
Steep and testing sport climbing well protected by rings. The start is a little chossy.


Spurt Wall     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
5 Routes
Grades 22-25
25 minute walk in
Afternoon sun and rain protected

The lesser cousin of Taipan Wall offers some good and very popular sport climbing up somewhat sandy and greasy rock. Some of the bolting is a little crap but generally it is a good sport crag for the masses. Sloper pulling is a handy skill for many of these routes. Bring a rope bag to protect your gear from the sandy ground.

Menstrual as Anything ** 18m 24
Bouldery start to the right of the first bolt since the tree start is no more. Sustained interesting climbing leads to the run out crux to the chains. Really enjoyable climb, though the rusty bolts are in urgent need of replacing.

Dial-A-Lama * 16m 24
A gentle traverse left then harder up through the bulge (Needs the bolt here moved down as it currently requires clipping off a small crimp) leads to a rest on the horizontal. Thin run out section to the last bolt keeps people honest. Supposedly also hard for the grade.Joe Morgan-Payler on Spurting Mildly (22)

Spurting Mildly * 15m 22
Nice scoop climbing. Properly the best of the easier lines at Spurt.

Right: Joe Morgan-Payler on Spurting Mildly (22)

Lord of the Jerks 15m 23
Pretty good little route with some tough moves.

Wide World of Spurtz * 15m 25
A powerful start leads to a sustained finish up the shorter right end of Spurt wall. Slopers define the crux.

Pussy Galore 15m 23
Not great. Rock is sandy.

I'd Rather Be Wanking 15m 23
Although not an attractive climb visually, it does provide some interesting sequences.


Centurion Walls
     Push For The Summit
Guide | PDF | Images
6 Routes
Grades 21-25
15 minute walk in
Sun all day

As a winter crag Centurion is hard to beat. It gets sun all day long and has a nice easy walk in and several quality sport routes. Many of these climbs require the odd bit of natural gear or contain runouts. All routes have rap anchors.

Antichrist Superstar * 20m 25 (!)
Long wandery steep climbing. Multiple cruxes and some medium cams to supplement the ringbolts.

Devilled Haircut ** 25m 25
Nick McKinnon on Killer Wolf (21) Photo Neil Monteith
Sustained steep climbing on a sweeping orange wall. Pockets, edges and slopers. Lots of ringbolts makes this a safe route. Lower crux is hard for the grade.

Killer Wolf ** 15m 21 (!)
Not really a sport route even though it has three bolts. Roof flake at start then very pumpy overhung orange wall above. Bring cams in finger/hand crack size for flake.

Right: Nick McKinnon on Killer Wolf (21), photo Neil Monteith

Left Hand Black ** 18m 23
Good sport route which has a tough scary crux move. Climbs overhung arÍte and pocketed face with a cruxy roof pull.

Centrifugal Force * 18m 25 (!)
Orange streaked wall and rooflet with spaced bolts. Some large wires are useful between bolts one and two.

Ton Steine Scherben 20m 24
Grotty lip traverse up some sandy rock leads to excellent orange pocketed face. The fall from the crux at bolt three is scary.


The Guardhouse     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
2 Routes
Grades 22-24
15 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

Close to Stapylton campground and Sentinel Cave this small area contains a few fun sport routes on coarse steep rock. These routes are very well bolted on rings with lower-offs. A good place to up your leading grades.Michael Boniwell on Little George (22), photo Neil Monteith

Little George * 14m 22
Tough pumpy sport route with lots of rings. Seeps a little after rain.

Right: Michael Boniwell on Little George (22), photo Neil Monteith

Ranger Danger * 15m 24
Not very sustained but offers a nice crux throw at the end. Stays dry during light rain.


Millennium Caves     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
4 Routes
Grades 20-24
15 minute walk in
Afternoon sun and rain protected

As stunning massive cave of immaculate orange heucos. The area is home to some of the best hard sport routes in the country – but there are several good easier lines as well. Some of the bolting is a little sparse so take care.

Living With Sister ** 12m 24
Roof thugging on awesome pockets. Take lots of care clipping the last bolt – as a stuff up will mean a back breaking fall onto the ledge below.
Living With Sister (24)

Right: Neil Monteith on Living with Sister (24), photo Kathy Dicker

Nomad Saint's and Indian's * 10m 24
The grade 24 version only climbs to the big heuco half way along. Excellent very steep climbing.


The Floating Cloud ** 15m 23
Classic polished rock and some great pockets up a subtle overhung wall. Bouldery start and end.

Verdensrom 15m 23
Sharp crimpers. Not as good as other routes in the cave so doesn’t get repeated often.

Kidney Stoned 15m 20
Novelty lip traverse on juggy rock which doesn’t have a lower-off anchor. The bolts are looking a little worse for wear.


Plaza Strip     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
3 Routes
Grades 23-24
35 minute walk in

Afternoon sun

A good little area a long way from anywhere else. The rock is solid, featured and slightly overhung. Located just below the summit of Stapylton near the tourist walking track. Ringbolts and lower offs are on all of these routes.Andy on Technorganica (23), photo Neil Monteith

Bass Rush * 15m 23
Crimpy face with an overhung bouldery start. Well protected.

Pentridge Smack Delivery 14m 24
Overhung short arete. Bolted boulder problem start then eases to jugs. Stick-clip the first ring.

Technorganica 20m 23 ** (!)
Beautiful and un-likely wall with big pockets, crimpers and a thin crack crux. Bring a few small wires to protect the reachy crux. The rest is all ringbolts.

Right: Andy on Technorganica (23), photo Neil Monteith


Windjammer Wall     Push For The Summit
Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre Guide by K. Loughran
3 Routes
Grades 18-23
30 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

A rarely visted area just below Lower Taipan which offers fantastic wall routes with spaced bolts and the occasional bit of gear. The only write-ups to these routes are in the now out of print Stapylton Amphitheatre guide. Rap anchors are located at the top of all of these routes.Jono Schimdt on Rosy the Riveter (18), photo Neil Monteith

Lord Jim ** 23m 23 (!)
Excellent face climbing more akin to the Blue Mtns than the Grampians. #1.5 cam betwen 3rd and 4th bolt.

Spice Islands * 25m 23 (!)
More good face climbing with spaced carrot bolts. Bring a large wire for a slot past bolt two.

Rosy the Riveter 12m 18
Another bolted crack route. This one is a gnarly looking offwidth which is suprisingly easy and makes a great warm up. A good tip is to bridge the corner rather than trying to thutch the wide crack.

Right: Jono Schimdt on Rosy the Riveter (18), photo Neil Monteith


Bundaleer
     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
4 Routes
Grades 22-25
15 minute walk in
Morning sun

One of the original climbing crags of the Grampians. It only has a few true sport routes amongst lots of trad classics. The rock is coarse and sometimes not the greatest quality but the climbs are great fun. Some of the fixed gear is in poor condition.Neil Monteith on Enter Sandman (22), photo Kathy Dicker

Manic Depressive ** 17m 25
A Grampians classic and many peoples first grade 25 tick. Steep prow of pocketed rock. The bouldery start off the big rock cairn is the crux then it is three star grade 22 to the anchor. Don’t trust the rusty piton near the end.

Enter Sandman * 18m 22
The rock quality and bolts are not great but the moves and positions make it all worthwhile. Use a spotter or stickclip the high first bolt. Needs rebolting.

Right: Neil Monteith on Enter Sandman (22), photo Kathy Dicker.

Know your Enemies 10m 25
Extremely short, powerful steep climbing.

Fistful of Steel 15m 24
Bouldery to start, then sustained to the chains.


Muline Cave     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
1 Route
Nick McKinnon thugs through the rounded jugs of Thrash And Dangle (24)
Grade 24
30 minute walk in
Afternoon Sun and rain protected


This huge and spectacular cave has some of the most amazing quality rock in Australia (world?). Most of the routes are in the high grades and are classics.

Crank and Dangle *** 14m 24
Many people consider this to be one of the best routes in the Grampians. Round blobs form an amazing roof climb with a runout finish. The rock quality is simply astounding. A must do.

Right: Nick McKinnon on Crank and Dangle (24), photo Neil Monteith


Weathered Wall     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
3 Routes
Grade 22-25
25 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

Kent Paterson on Rammed (25)A well positioned face of rounded slopers high up above Halls Gap. The climbing style is not your typical Grampians jug fest. Lots of shiny bolts will make this place popular with the sport clipping masses. This crag is right next to a very popular lookout so try and keep a low profile.

The Big Merino ** 22m 25
Slopers galore. A very pumpy route with some fairly spaced U bolts and some kick arse exposure.

Rammed ** 20m 25
More slopers but a few more jugs and a little better rock quality. Your forearms should be exploding by the time you hit the anchors!

Right: Kent Paterson on Rammed (25), photo Neil Monteith.

It's Raining Men * 22m 22
Face and flake crack with just the right amount of bolts. Feels more like a Blue Mountains route.


Asses Ear – Chicken Boulder     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
2 Routes
Grade 21-24
25 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

These are short sport routes on a separate overhung block to the main wall of the Asses Ear. The rock is very coarse and the routes are ringbolted. They are worth a play if you are climbing other routes in the area.
Neil on Run Rings

Run Rings * 12m 21
Steep flake up a featured face. Lots of rings.

Right: Neil Monteith on Run Rings (21), photo Jono Schimdt

Tarred and Feathered 12m 24
Bouldery pocketed face with a powerful crux. Rough rock tends to wear out finger tips.


Schroaders Cliff
     Push For The Summit
Guide | Images
3 Routes
Grade 20-24
35 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

A very nice face of coarse vertical rock high above Asses Ear. The routes tend to be crimpy with an almost granite feel about them. Friction is superb and the bolts are good.
Jono Schimdt on Fat Cat (20)

Fat Cat ** 20m 20 (!)
Excellent grey bolted slab. You will need some small wires for the start and an optional #3 cam for the easy finish.

Right: Jono Schimdt on Fat Cat (20), photo Neil Monteith

Fat Cat Direct 20m 24
Very crimpy and reachy direct start to the original route.

Felix ** 20m 23
Crimpy sustained grey face with numerous cruxes. Good route for people with foot technique.


Gilhams Crags – Sportz Wall     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz | Images
2 Routes
Grades 24-25
20 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

Being called Sportz Wall you would imagine these would be sport routes. Think again. Only one route is really a sport route – the others have manky pitons, big runouts and bits of trad. The rock is slick and polished with moves more like crack climbing than sport climbing.
Sportz Wall

Spoil Sportz 18m 25 (!)
Rarely done. Polished desperate face.

Liquorice All Sportz * 18m 24
Really sustained climbing with some very tough cruxes. Relys more on body position and technique than brutal power. Bring some natural gear for the topout or jump off and lower off last bolt.

Sporting Chance 15m 24 (!)
Much harder and much less attractive than Liquorice All Sportz. Rarely done.


Scoop Rocks     Push For The Summit
No current guide - Conatct Neil Monteith for info | Images
3 Routes
Grades 23-25
20 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

A nice traquil spot a long was from other crags and high up on a hillside. The rock is polished, featured and creates climbs which usually have some bizzare body destroying moves. All the climbs are well ringbolted.
Malcolm Matheson on Poison Bait (25)

Angry Arborist * 20m 23+ (!)
Steep orange wall with a really hard crux dyno to a big heuco. Absolute sandbag if you are not over 6ft tall. The rest of the route is cruisy grade 20. A #0.75 cam is useful for the start.

Poison Bait ** 12m 25+
Gym climbing on real rock. Very bouldery steep start then knobby wall to roof. Swing across five metre ceiling to chain. Instant sport classic if you can figure out the start. Proberly more like grade 26.

Right: Malcolm Matheson on Poison Bait (25), photo Michael Boniwell.

Talon ** 13m 25
Excellent steep sport climbing on polished rock. This is a slightly easier version of Poison Bait and includes the same big five metre ceiling.
 

Elephants Hide     Push For The Summit
Grampians Select by Tempest/Mentz
2 Routes
Grades 17-21
15 minute walk in
Afternoon sun

Slab climbing in the Grampians with a very similar feel to the Catherdral Ranges. Leave your brawn in the car and put your footwork to the test on these two delightful and challenging routes. This is within easy walking distance of Halls Gap - so grab an icecream and waltz on in.Roger 'Dodgy' on Elephants Slide (17). photo Neil Monteith

Elephant Slide ** 40m 17 (!)
One of its kind in the Grampians. Sustained smooth sheet of perfect frictional sandstone. Bring some medium cams for the runout but very easy start. The carrot bolts don't look great .

Right: Roger 'Dodgy' on Elephants Slide (17). Photo Neil Monteith.

Protected Species 40m 21 (!)
A harder and more runout version of Elephant Slide. Not really a safe sport route.
 

 


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