Figure Eight Knots
Figure Eight Follow Through
you are a beginner climber and can only remember one knot, let it be this
one. I'd be very surprised if any climber did not know this knot. Among
other uses, it's very popular as a "tie in" for attaching the
climbing rope to your harness. With that in mind, follow these steps to
"tie in" with the Figure Eight knot:
Step 1: Form a single figure eight in the end of the rope and feed the tail
through your harness. Some harnesses require that you feed the rope
through certain straps. When tying in, I like to
feed rope through the same harness straps that the belay loop occupies
others prefer to use the belay loop (as pictured). Still others prefer to
tie into a steel locking carabiner, or two aluminium locking carabiners,
gates reversed, which have been clipped into the appropriate harness
straps. There are pros & cons. Consult your harness manual for the
recommended tie in point.
Steps 2 & 3:
Rethread the figure eight, following the same path as the first. Pull the
knot tight (though some climbers prefer to leave it a little loose to
absorb force from a fall). Make
sure you have enough tail, as the knot will slip a bit when loaded. Check
the knot by counting "two", "two" &
"two", for the three visible doubled strands. Ensure they each
are lying flat and not crossing over themselves.
Step 4: An optional step. If you find yourself with too much
tail, or are paranoid about the figure eight slipping, tie a stopper knot
with the remaining tail.
recommended that you check your partner's tie in knot, and get them to
check yours before climbing.
Figure Eight On A Bight
This knot is
formed from a "bight" of rope. It's very handy to just grab a
bight of the rope anywhere along it and tie it off in this
manner. Useful for belay set ups, or rescue work, or to backup ascending a
rope, and all sorts of applications. Again, I'd be very surprised if any climber did not already know
this knot. Never-the-less, follow these steps to tie a figure eight on a
Steps 1,2 & 3: Grab a bite of rope and form the classic
figure eight. Step 4: Pull tight and clip in. Fast, simple and
In-line Figure Eight
knot can be used to anchor the rope. It's perhaps not as commonly used as
the aforementioned, figure eight on a bite, but is very handy when
equalising anchors. Follow these steps to tie the
in-line figure eight knot:
Step 1: Form a large loop in the rope. Steps 2 & 3:
Elongate the loop, tucking it under and over the line and feeding it
back through itself. Step 4: Pull tight and clip to load/anchor. The
finished knot should be "facing" the direction of the load.
You'll note that with a bit of adjustment you can elongate or shrink the
protruding loop - very handy when equalising two anchors.
Eight - From Petzl's Web site.
Eight - From Rock & Ice Magazine Online.
Figure Eight With Extra
Pass - From Karl Lew's web site.
Knot As A "Tie In" - The rethreaded figure eight or bowline
from Dawn's FAQ site.
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