Garda Hitch ("Alpine Clutch")
Also known as the "Alpine Clutch", this knot locks the rope so it can only move in one direction. It can be
used, for example, (in combination with other knots), to ascend the rope
or as part of a pulley system for hauling loads. If done correctly it
works well, however, I'm not a big fan of this knot and
have never used it in a real life situation. If the knot really locks up
you might need to prise it free with a nut tool. Also when experimenting
with it, I've had one carabiner unclip itself. Note, oval carabiners are
recommend, not those shown in the pictures below. I suggest you backup
whatever you're doing with it. Judge for yourself if it is a valid option
for your application.
Follow these steps to tie the Garda Hitch:
Step 1: Clip two carabiners, gates reversed, but spines aligned
as pictured. Note it is recommend that you use oval carabiners rather than
those pictured. Steps 2 & 3: Clip the rope through both
carabiners from left to right, and form a loop with the right side tail. Step
4: Clip the loop through the left hand carabiner as pictured. Step
5: Pull tight and apply load. The knot is supposed to slip down the
carabiner's spines a little. I suggest having some for of backup rather
than relying totally on this knot.
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