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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Should a dropped ATC be retired?
12:35:37 PM
On the weekend I dropped my ATC about a metre onto concrete, leaving a small mark on the side. Some of the people I climb with are a bit paranoid about this sort of thing, and immediately dispose of any gear that's been dropped. Other people I know are more forgiving, so I was wondering if the forum had a view on whether gear that's been dropped, even a short distance, should be retired?

12:44:12 PM
I run a retirement home for gear in this category. Let me know if you want me to take care of it for you.
12:46:27 PM
A metre!???

I wouldn't worry if it dropped 50m!

12:57:24 PM
On 5/01/2015 ldshield wrote:
>On the weekend I dropped my ATC about a metre onto concrete,


I'm with patto on this one, a metre will be fine.
1:00:58 PM
You would hope a bit of gear like an ATC would be sufficiently robust to take a few bumps and scrapes. Dropped from hand height or head height i personally wouldnt worry.

Dropped from a climb, which is most likely to be at your anchor point at 10 to 30 metres when youre setting up to belay, then just buy a new one at the price of a couple of pints of beer.

1:19:32 PM
I dropped mine down a cliff years ago and using it since still hasn't killed me (or anyone else).

1:26:43 PM
On 5/01/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>I dropped mine down a cliff years ago and using it since still hasn't killed me (or anyone else).

I think dropping it down the cliff was a bigger threat to life than its continued use.
1:51:57 PM
I remember reading on Chockstone somewhere that aluminium climbing gear did not have a problem with microfractures - it was only the older steel stuff that you had to worry about being dropped. So as long as it's not steel, you should be ok.

If we never hear from you again, we'll know my recollection was faulty :p.
2:54:37 PM
Here's a response someone prepared 10 years earlier:

On 29/05/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>There is a few topics floating about on this subject Trish...
3:00:49 PM
Also see:
Mikl testing Aldi belay device

Etiquette on dropped gear

when do climbers replace gear?

Fat Canyoners opinion
Rock Climbing dot com

6:54:45 PM
I probably should stop belaying with the Reverso 4 I bootied from the base of Ozy;) I removed the one sharp edge on it and quite like it...

8:00:14 PM
G'day All, my background has a little bit to do with welding repairs of aluminium. Does 17 years as welding specialist in an automotive college count?
Anyway, some facts:
* Go to the following for the lowdown Al,
* Al age hardens, this is where the life expectancy of a component will vary. However Al can be annealed to restore ductility and malleability. Al alloys will vary in this restorative process.
* Al alloys are used obviously in areas such as aerospace, automotive and yes climbing hardware.
* Hands up those of you that run alloy wheels on their car? "I thought so!" So, who retires one of these nice objects when a curb is nudged etc, etc, "or better still," the speedometer clocks over a hundred thou? "Get the picture."

Now if you really want to get serious about the integrity of you climbing hardware go and have have a look at the this.

This should help to take some guesswork out of establishing criteria\s for retiring your gear.

My blurb is by no means the be all, just a go at putting some objectivity into an area that has been kicked around since Adam was pup. Cheers

There are 12 messages in this topic.


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