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Ukrainian cams?

widewetandslippery

19-Sep-2007
9:10:58 AM

Simple load test. 2 vices bolted down. Get some rated cord/perlon up to half that of the unit is rated at, or you wish it to be. Attach unit to vice (creativity can count here), most official testing is done in tension, a shear test on a stiff stemed cam could result in deformity. connect test cord to the other open vice and to the unit to be tested. crank the vice shut. The vice threahd will have the tourque to obtain at least enough force to break your cord if not unit. This creates a reasonable user friendly nondestructive test for these units.

The supertopo website has some other versions on home made testing with pictures under threads on CCH Aliens.


GravityHound

19-Sep-2007
11:45:44 AM

On 18/09/2007 Wollemi wrote:
>
>Isn't there a NSW state-govt department at Castlereagh (between Richmond
>and Penrith) that will do this kind of thing? Indeed they may insist on
>doing formal destruction tests before being allowed to be retailed over-the-counter
>in NSW.

Funnily enough i grew up in Castlereagh. But it isnt there, just up the road in glorious Londonderry. Always wondered what the hell that building was used for.....


dougal

19-Sep-2007
12:20:41 PM

On 28/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>....and for the record i've broken (yes - in half!) two Wild Country Flexi
>Friends and one Alien. Two of
>these were during falls and one was by bending it in my hand on the ground.

Where did they break? (the device itself).


dougal

19-Sep-2007
12:21:03 PM


Capt_mulch

19-Sep-2007
12:34:41 PM

I thought the only things in Londonderry were Bikers, Bogans and dope crops! I lived in ultra selubrious Agnes Banks in a former life. What is the govt. building there? Maybe they could be coerced to carry out a few tests...

Wollemi

19-Sep-2007
1:05:11 PM

TestSafe Australia: 919 Londonderry Road, Londonderry, 2753.
Ph: (02) 4724 4900; Fax: (02) 4724 4999.
TestSafe Australia is a safety testing and research facility which offers a comprehensive range of safety testing, certification and approval services in the electrical/electronic, mechanical and personal protective equipment fields.

Wollemi

19-Sep-2007
1:10:17 PM

These people may help, too - rocks are often crushed to test for hardness/mechanical 'weathering', and the Dep't Mineral Resources might advise.

New South Wales Department of Mineral Resources' Drill Core Library: 947-953 Londonderry Road, Londonderry, 2753.
Ph: (02) 4777 4316; Fax: (02) 4777 4397.
It is one of the most modern and comprehensive of its kind in the world. The Library represents an extremely important and valuable information resource for the state.

widewetandslippery

19-Sep-2007
1:23:12 PM

another testing option is to find a rope acces worker/rigger who has a load cell


wallwombat

19-Sep-2007
3:09:36 PM

The way I plan to test them doesn't involve load cells, vices or government departments.

Actually, WW&S , if we can both manage to coordinate two days off at the same time and get over to that big crack, you will probably get to see me test em.


Edward Sillypants

19-Sep-2007
8:31:51 PM

yeah, no worries mate... what day would suit you ... will I need to bring some safety glasses ... cut lunch ... air freshener if I'm gunna be in the same room as you ?

Ha Ha :D ... only joking mate ... so you reckon we can do it with out the load cells, yeah ?

Chipbutty

20-Sep-2007
6:08:54 PM

on close in spection they seem to be held together by nylock nuts?


muki

20-Sep-2007
6:33:25 PM

There is no nylon locking mecanism on most fixed hangers, yet you trust those don't you?


skink

20-Sep-2007
6:50:24 PM

On 20/09/2007 tobyholyhead wrote:
>on close in spection they seem to be held together by nylock nuts?

Yep, look like nylocks to me too - but why is that an issue? It's rough but hey, these cams aren't the purdiest anyway, are they?

Looks like beefy cable, how much do they weigh wallwombat?


GravityHound

20-Sep-2007
8:54:13 PM

Dont want to flame up the debate again but just noticed these on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/9-x-rock-climbing-nut-stopper-protection-trad-gear-aid_W0QQitemZ270167808127QQihZ017QQcategoryZ98956QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


wallwombat

21-Sep-2007
1:17:49 PM

The cables are beefy. They don't seem to weigh much more than a equivalent tech friend .

They aren't nylock nuts. It's a double swage with heat shrink around it .

Chipbutty

22-Sep-2007
4:36:08 PM

no issue really just an observation, sounds like they aren't anyway but could of made them pretty servicable!

Lee2495

1-Dec-2007
3:06:36 AM

Hi
I was already looking at those myself, but like a few others wasn't too sure. Have you used them yet, and if so how are they? Would you be happy to fall on them or just use them for aid?


wallwombat

2-Dec-2007
1:00:22 PM

Yes they are fine. I haven't fallen on one yet but would be happy to. They are beefy.


Macciza

2-Dec-2007
10:30:46 PM

Not too far off-route - but I have some 10 plus year old cams that I have never had identified but saw
some very similar,but couldn't be sure because of poor resolution, in a photo re testing of 'Ukranian' cams
. . . whew, finally , the connection and a rest.
Anyway, I have fallen on them, and the 7'ish mm cord that I tied on to them, well and good both free
climbing and aid climbing for 10 plus years, I am sure the se new ones will be fine.
To me they look like an exact BD copy and if you copy a cam you end up with a cam.
PS Just get it over with and jump why don't you . . . ;-}


IdratherbeclimbingM9

3-Dec-2007
5:28:38 PM

>PS Just get it over with and jump why don't you . . . ;-}

Yeah how can you give fair dinkum feedback on gear without a fall to base it on? :P (tongue in cheek symbol).

... & the waiting crowd took up the chant "jump womby jump", ... "jump womby jump"
:)
heh, heh, heh.

There are 154 messages in this topic.