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22-Dec-2015 12:24:20 PM
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Hi,
My wife is a avid climber and has since got me involved. We mainly climb at Araps. I might get her a set of cam locks, but am uncertain which sizes to get. She is the one that knows what kind of equipment to use. Black diamond sets range from X4, C3 and C4. All i know is we mainly use small gear for Araps. Could i get some some help deciding which set to get. I would like to get a set that could be used at other climbing sites as well. The hardest i think we have climbed is about a level 14.
Thanks for you help,
Nick
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22-Dec-2015 12:56:41 PM
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I don't generally worry about small cams until the high teens unless I'm heading up something I think will be thin (eg. watchtower faces). While I own a full set of C4s #0.3 - #6 with doubles #0.5 - #2 and a full set of C3s #000 - #2, I got by for years with a single set of C4s from #0.4 - #3. I don't think I've ever carried my full rack of cams at Arapiles.
In general, on stuff up to around grade 16 at Arapiles, I usually carry a single lot of C4s from #0.5 - #2.
If I can see it's wider, I'll take a #3 as well.
If I think it's thin, I'd add the #0.3 and #0.4 C4 and C3s #0, #1 & #2.
If I had to pick 4 cams and leave everything else I'd take the C4s in sizes #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2. If I owned X4s in similar sizes, I'd prefer them over the comparable C4.
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22-Dec-2015 1:13:15 PM
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Camping Devices are very expensive and you don't want to get it wrong.
Do you clim with others who know what her tastes are?
What gear do you already have?
You can't go wrong with a set of C4s in the range Andrew mentioned; unless she already has a set?
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22-Dec-2015 2:27:17 PM
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Easy starter kit for Araps ...
0.3 - 3 (7 in all) BD C4's.
I have no connection either, but Steve from rockhardware.com.au (sponsor of this site) has outstanding customer service and I'm sure would have them to your door before Christmas.
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23-Dec-2015 11:23:51 AM
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Yes I agree rock hardware is awesome - ordered something Monday arvo arrived yesterday. I will also proudly spam his 17 and under book which arrived packaged well enough to survive Armageddon - and after I finally opened it I found it was a great book too (apart from simeys bits).
Happy happy season
Estuardo xxx ooooo
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23-Dec-2015 11:34:04 AM
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Eduardo - there is an opening in the post above to make a joke about simeys bits.
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23-Dec-2015 12:38:52 PM
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Actually I take that back ...... Simey there is an opening in the post above for you to crap on endlessly about how awesome your bits are
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23-Dec-2015 12:49:59 PM
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** Dad joke alert **
Just make sure you buy the cam unlocks too, I didn't and now I have a whole bunch of cam locks in the garage which I cant use for anything.
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23-Dec-2015 1:39:28 PM
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Cam locks are normally used to deliver the hundreds of amps required to power large scale concert and theatrical applications. I have to imagine that for most people doing single, to shortish multi pitch routes at Arapiles, a standard Clipsal 40 Amp three phase hookup would be adequate. However, I'm pretty sure my friend Miguel75 could find a way to use 400 Amps of power whilst belaying.
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23-Dec-2015 8:42:38 PM
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Thanks so much for all your replies. Rock climbing stores are a lot like bunnings. Everytime you go in you buy more than you planned.
I might get a set of C4's. Seems like the way to go. The X4 set has similar sizes, so what is the main difference between the 2 different 0.3's for example.
We have used Cams before but only once, and they were someone else's set. We did like them.
I went to www.rockhardware.com.au, they have a lot of good deals. When i am ready to buy i will get them from there.
Thanks again for your very quick replies.
Nick
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23-Dec-2015 9:21:15 PM
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On 23/12/2015 cristynick wrote:
> so what is the main difference between the 2 different 0.3's for
>example.
X4 - narrower head, more flexible stem
C4 - More durable, slightly stronger rating.
I think the size range may be different for the .3, but Im not certain, never used the X4s.
Generally the more X4s and other cams with similar traits are preferable in the smaller sizes because they present more placement options.
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23-Dec-2015 9:23:19 PM
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Hey, Just call and talk to Steve. He'll sort you out.
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23-Dec-2015 9:26:08 PM
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X4s are only made in small sizes, and C4s are made in big sizes. This is for reasons which will become obvious after you use them a bit.
The overlap between designs is the size range 0.3 to 0.75 (four sizes). Get X4s in these sizes as they are better*
*I am merely a person with an opinion on the internet.......but seriously, listen to me, I know shit about shit and stuff.
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23-Dec-2015 10:21:49 PM
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On 23/12/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>SNIP... However, I'm pretty sure my friend Miguel75 could find a way to use 400 Amps of
>power whilst belaying.
I must admit PI is telling the truth. I either get so excited at the prospect of climbing I burn all my energy up just being stoked, or I burn it all up quaking in fear... Regardless, I'm awesome!*
*Please note this claim does not necessarily reflect the views of a normal person, nor does it imply that I climb with any semblance of proficiency, aptitude or anything other than pure, unadulterated awesomeness.
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23-Dec-2015 10:54:19 PM
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Thanks all for your help. Most of it will be personal preference.
lfranklin, ill give steve a call, see what he thinks. A good combination will be good.
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23-Dec-2015 11:50:29 PM
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On 23/12/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>X4s are only made in small sizes, and C4s are made in big sizes. This is
>for reasons which will become obvious after you use them a bit.
>
>The overlap between designs is the size range 0.3 to 0.75 (four sizes).
>Get X4s in these sizes as they are better*
Here's the BD image:
Here's a discussion about X4s on Chockstone.
And here's Mountain Projects discussion & a photo comparisson:
Since you are building your first rack, it's probably going to be more financially sensible to get a set including larger gear. You still haven't mentioned if you have any other trad gear.
From Rock Hardware website:
SET of 6 "C4" Cams and 6 matching wire Gates.
Camelots sizes .4, .5, .75, 1, 2 & 3 and "Neutrino" 6 Pack. (That means a biner for each Cam)
N/B N/B Substantial price rises in JAN 2016! $602.65 $485.00
*You said you have used small gear - so maybe see if they can do some kind of deal incorporating some of the X4s as mentioned - or drop the size 3 for a .3
Good luck.
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24-Dec-2015 12:27:42 AM
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Thanks Martym,
I have looked at the BD image b4. the Picture below explains the difference between the different sets. I'll have to sit down and read that mountain projects discussion. It has a lot of good info.
To date we use hexs and nuts for protection. Hexs mainly for larger cracks.
I saw that pack from the rock hardware website. That is the set i will get. Their sold out of the X4's. Get some later.
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24-Dec-2015 10:48:07 AM
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I don't get why BD's are the defacto choice for most climbers.
You might want to consider DMM Dragons - lighter, safer cam angle and the extendable sling works well.
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24-Dec-2015 11:34:38 AM
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Because they are familiar; and many climbers mistake most familiar for best.
However most of the time it doesn't matter. Most familiar often translates to easiest/most efficient to use; which is a pretty close approximation of best in many cases.
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24-Dec-2015 11:04:50 PM
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Go Totems. If they made them up to a 6 I reckon I'd have doubles and be super stoked!
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