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Joining Two Ropes


voodoo

23-Dec-2010
12:33:43 PM

On 23/12/2010 aarond wrote:
>...maybe even a double figure 8, that way you know your double backed up if one loop snaps.

So you're worried about a single strand of your rope snapping when you're abseiling on it, yet presumably you're still happy to take lead falls on a single length of it? That makes no sense at all.

widewetandslippery

23-Dec-2010
12:37:53 PM

Thats right voodoo we should all just walk around the back. It makes so much more sense.


voodoo

23-Dec-2010
12:42:42 PM

On 23/12/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Thats right voodoo we should all just walk around the back. It makes so
>much more sense.

Umm, what?

tskinner

24-Dec-2010
9:34:19 AM

On 22/12/2010 MisterGribble wrote:
>Try a reef knot with a double fisherman for each loose end as a backup.
>Less bulk and easy to untie.
>
>Bit of good old Gribble know-how!

Yep, that's the way I do it which is the way my boyfriend taught me how to tie it.


Macciza

24-Dec-2010
3:55:44 PM

If it's for a twin rope abseil than an overhand with 30cm tails ,set tightly is all you need!
Yes it slides over snags easier then other knots, won't roll undone and is easy to undo afterwards
For joining two ropes for single rope abseil I like Alpine Butterflys which is just two overhands tied together weirdly, with a loop in the system somewhere to clip into as backup during knot-passing . . .

hargs

24-Dec-2010
4:43:18 PM

>For joining two ropes for single rope abseil I like Alpine Butterflys
>which is just two overhands tied together weirdly, with a loop in the system
>somewhere to clip into as backup during knot-passing . . .

Top rope figure 8 on a bight, bottom rope rethreaded figure 8: rope joining knot and clip-in loop in one.

Richard Delaney

24-Dec-2010
5:06:26 PM

Nice one hargs.
The EDK has been well tested and is fine for single person loads however should not be used for loads too far in excess of 100kg. It should only be used for joining ropes at/behind the anchor - not mid pitch.
If joining two ropes for a retrievable rope abseil then single fig 8 in the end of one and rethread the end of the other through it. Note: this must end up with the two "live" ropes coming out opposite ends of the knot. It slides over edges OK (but no better than double fishermans) and can be undone very easilly.
hargs' suggestion is similar but for joining multiple ropes for long descents - nice.

Justcameron

24-Dec-2010
10:53:33 PM

Has anyone else used an alpine butterfly for joining two ropes?

ie. take the two ends of the rope and pretend that is your "bight" and then tie using the twist method.

Or if you prefer to imagine, tie an alpine butterfly, then cut the rope in the loop.

Very strong, relatively easy to untie and it has a fairly small profile (although not as small as the EDK)

Thoughts?

paul

25-Dec-2010
9:43:49 AM

I used to combine an alpine butterfly with the EDK in the tales, but kust use two EDK's on the tales these days because it is quicker. The alpine butterfly just seemed like it could be suceseptable to slipage when the back of the knot is rubbed against the rock, It was probably just a physcological thing though.

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