Has he clipped that top piton correctly. It looks to me that the tab is pointing up and he has clipped it from the side rather than from below. In the fall the crab would twist the bit of the piton poking out and snap!
British grades assume an onsight attempt. For anything hard (E7/8 and up?), they're generally headpointed (trad term for redpoint), and then graded assuming somebody onsighting it. Some say that this is an issue with British grades, so will give a 'H' grade instead of an 'E' grade, and assuming somebody actually onsights a H graded route, then they can give it an E grade.
On 25/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>(snip) Dave Macleod worked a bunch of routes including his E11
>projects, before grading them E11 (they will probably never be onsighted
>given the difficulty/danger). (snip)
I disagree.
Sooner or later when the current or next generation tires of the same old, same old; they will aspire to a challenge that befits their skill/training/technique/equipment/attitude/etc...
~> They will then seek adventure in onsighting such routes.
On 25/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Grading systems. Sheesh!
Yeah, I agree. Why the fcuk is there several bouldering grade systems.
What is going on there?
Why can't they work out a simple system that (for example), is numerically based?
:-P
On 25/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>I don't get it. Dave Macleod worked a bunch of routes including his E11
>projects, before grading them E11 (they will probably never be onsighted
>given the difficulty/danger). How does that work?
>
>Grading systems. Sheesh!
Yup - most British climbers just give an E grade to a climb they've headpointed. A small minority will give a H grade because of some ethical reasoning. Unfortunately it seems to confuse things.
Probably a long shot but does anyone have a stash of downloaded climbing videos they might allow me to copy? I can't really look at these vimeo vids at work, they are huge downloads and I don't have an internet connection at home (I stare at a computer all day at work - don't want to do the same at home!)
Maybe PM me if you do?
Nice fine ajfclark. Nice video though I did find the editing of the actual ascent a little disjointed. I would have preferred a straight view of the ascent without all the cuts and close ups etc... Definitely made it look easy!