Totally contrived. I don't know why he didn't just drill bolts, pre-place the draws and then climb it. Placing all that trad gear and taking such a big fall is pointless.
On 7/09/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Totally contrived. I don't know why he didn't just drill bolts, pre-place
>the draws and then climb it. Placing all that trad gear and taking such
>a big fall is pointless.
Besides, did you notice how he had all the gear ready to plug-and-place? How contrived and pointless is that?
He should be taking up a full rack, hastily slung over his shoulder, and locating and placing the right piece individually.
In fact, now that I think about it more, he probably shouldn't be allowed to take up his own rack. Excess familiarity with your own gear gets contrived and starts becoming too much like sportclimbing. Someone should just hand him a random rack that he has to deal with on route.
On 7/09/2011 spicelab wrote:
>Besides, did you notice how he had all the gear ready to plug-and-place?
> How contrived and pointless is that?
>
>He should be taking up a full rack, hastily slung over his shoulder, and
>locating and placing the right piece individually.
>
>In fact, now that I think about it more, he probably shouldn't be allowed
>to take up his own rack. Excess familiarity with your own gear gets contrived
>and starts becoming too much like sportclimbing. Someone should just hand
>him a random rack that he has to deal with on route.
Best bit of climbing vid I've seen since that last one of some guy trad climbing a 5.14 sport route . . . The is the real thing, the future of climbing . . .
Contrived? No - You must be thinking of 'spurt-climbing' - bolts where-ever you want them, doggers to skip later, tickmarks etc . . .
And I don't think the run-outs are deliberate, you use the gear that is there, sometimes it ain't much - sometimes you just take the best and forget the questionable ..
And even if he has got it wired, it still does not remove that voice in the back of your mind going 'what if?', Try tradding a sport climb you know if you want to taste the feeling . . .
To climb it in the style that he did is clearly a greater achievement than to clip the artificial in-situ protection, the only thing that would really top this style would be a true onsight, without knowledge of gear requirements . . . .
Cheers
On 7/09/2011 Macciza wrote:
>Best bit of climbing vid I've seen since that last one of some guy trad
>climbing a 5.14 sport route . . . The is the real thing, the future of climbing . . .
I wouldn't call it the future of climbing... well I hope not. I still value ground-up ascents considerably more than rehearsed or pre-inspected ascents. I think it is an interesting challenge though. What would be the best candidate on Taipan Wall for a bolt-free ascent?
And I don't want to hear you crap on about Shai Hulud again Macca.
Still too easy! You're only allowed to pick up "found objects" along the trail to the route after having made your own self-propelled (cycling, walking, crawling) way to the crag from your campsite.
Slings and ropes? Dried vines and such ...
On 8/09/2011 hipdos wrote:
>Doesn't Serpentine have some gear placements on it?
I remember vaguely hearing about maybe Zac or one of the Cosseys doing Serpentine either all on bolts, or all on trad. Either way it would have HUGE runouts as it's very much a mixed climb.
On 8/09/2011 Doug Bruce wrote:
>Still too easy! You're only allowed to pick up "found objects" along the
>trail to the route after having made your own self-propelled (cycling,
>walking, crawling) way to the crag from your campsite.
>Slings and ropes? Dried vines and such ...
if you must use bolts you have to place them on lead, wait for the glue to dry before clipping. Now thats real climbing
On 7/09/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>...what is wrong with biner to biner?
>The gates can twist open which sucks but I see no issue when they are locked?
>I do it all the time...just wondering.
It is probably an academic moot point most of the time (especially for aid climbing), but theorists might say that apart from twisting open (ie the main concern), it also increases the possibility of cross loading gates. Done up screwgates when cross loaded on their gates are still less strong than optimal loading rating.
On a personal level, years ago I led Borderline 29 at Frog and managed a snafu of rope when it self back-clipped a lower gear placement. It partially involved a krab to krab scenario, and I have been leery of that style of arrangement ever since. If I need* to, I will still clip krab to krab, but try to avoid doing so as much as practically possible...
(*ie it is a knowing decision, conscious of potential loading/s that involves accepting the greater risks involved).
>On a personal level, years ago I led Borderline 29 at Frog and managed
>a snafu of rope when it self back-clipped a lower gear placement. It partially
>involved a krab to krab scenario, and I have been leery of that style of
>arrangement ever since.
The backclipping possibility doesn't exist with;
a) Screw gates
b) Wildly overhung routes
I've also had the rope back-clip on me, but it was through a quickdraw. Since then I never use quickdraws because they are too dangerous... (not really)
Pretty sure this has been posted before, but it's Friday and I needed a laugh so I watched this (NSFW language but the audio makes it. Headphones if you're at work):