On 24/11/2010 robertsonja wrote:
>On 24/11/2010 singersmith wrote:
>>Is that the business bit (24) of Country Road?
>
>That is the business, the first roof just right of belay is also a little
>bit funky. Unfortunately the wine bottle was empty, but still a really
>nice climb. Two number 5 camalots would be a minimum to aid the business.
>
... said he who grabbed the coveted 3rd aid ascent of Australias 1st 24 ! ~> Simey has really missed his opportunity on this one!! Heh, heh, heh.
@ singersmith here.].
(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)
is another perspective of the same climb for your interest.
Fish Boy posted some pics...
Good stuff.
~> They tell a story, but I am still waiting to see someone post a trip report that maybe gives feedback to enthuse (or turn off?), others who may still be considering doing some aid sometime in the future,... as I am biased and people only gave me positive feedback!
>
>@ singersmith
>here.
>.
>(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)
> is another
>perspective of the same climb for your interest.
>
>
How many ropes do you need to aid that thing? There's almost a spider's web of them in that shot.
robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!
On 24/11/2010 Wendy wrote:
>robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively
>in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this
>thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!
The top third of the crack gets a little bit mossy but with your repertoire it should be no issues. The tree is Deadwood and is a real c*#cksucker. The belay has a dodgy 8mm fixed hanger, plus a rusty carrot with attached empty wine bottle, plus an old bong (not one of Fish Boy's) next to a 6ft bomber crack - go figure!
On 24/11/2010 Wendy wrote:
>How many ropes do you need to aid that thing? There's almost a spider's
>web of them in that shot.
One would be enough.
In the photo it was roped solo as part of practise for a bigger route.
One rope is dynamic for leading and has a backup loop, hence more than one strand off the harness.
The other rope is a haul-line-static and is redirected (still clipped), to the first belay to facilitate back-roped cleaning of the climb, with it's tail hanging down the first pitch that is offset from the second pitch.
>robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively
>in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this
>thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!
I am surprised that you are bothering to read this thread Wendy.
As an aside; if ever I was to go to the trouble of training ,and maybe redpointing a climb that is grades harder than I normally climb; then this is the one that inspires me the most, as it looks to be short and sweet for the grade!
~> Who knows, I may give it a shot some time...
☺
>
>I am surprised that you are bothering to read this thread Wendy.
but there were pretty photos ...
>
>As an aside; if ever I was to go to the trouble of training ,and maybe
>redpointing a climb that is grades harder than I normally climb; then this
>is the one that inspires me the most, as it looks to be short and sweet
>for the grade!
>~> Who knows, I may give it a shot some time...
>☺
i reckon now is a good time, you could clean it up for me before january! i've been put off it for years in the knowledge that Steve Monks fell off it. Not a good sign!
>
>
Hmm, hard to get a grasp of the angle but looks like there's a no hands rest between the roofs. #5's, sounds like good knees and hand stacks. I'll probably get on it sometime during the holidays. I'll be sure to scrub the messy bits and assess the structural integrity of the tree, Wendy. Unless of course you wanted to come on up sooner?