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Lord Gumtree Aid Solo Winter Attempt
5:05:19 PM
Hey guys, it took me ages to finish writing up my diary notes - this pandemic has been like sedation. Here it is - an attempt in 2019 that resulted in me bailing UP Ozymandias.

Shout out to Alec who I bumped into on the climb and provided some sorely needed motivation.


7:19:08 AM
Good stuff.

I tried LG a couple of times and got to about the same point as you - it’s just so damn dirty. So dirty - I think on the 2nd go round we carried a wire brush for cleaning the rock. The cold and wet must just be another layer of misery.

6:36:27 AM
We’ll done on the solo, another great write up.

PI and I tried Lord Gumtree and I led the pitches up to just below BG. That sloping dirty left leaning crack system leading up towards BG was horrible. I remember every piece of gear was terrible, having to dig out placements, with RP’s and small cam hook placements in mud. I can’t imagine how cold, wet, muddy and miserable (aka type 2 fun) it must have been for you.

Thanks for keeping the gorge clean too:)
8:20:58 PM
Appreciate the replies guys. Miguel - no thanks for duty. I wonder if we will see a reply from somebody who has ventured beyond BG? Don't make me go back up there again... team effort?

9:26:31 AM
I enjoyed reading it too! Great stuff
1:57:34 PM
Enjoyed it, thanks!

I've been spending a bit of time around mt buffalo and hardly ever see climbers, even in peak times like long weekends, but it sounds like the queues for ozy only form up in the middle of winter:)
Bob Saki
11:56:47 AM
Thanks HPT, I really enjoyed reading that, you write well and really get a sense of your humility and respect for the places and the sport. Reckon you've been really bold and had a real crack. Look forward to seeing when you've accomplished LG in an updated TR.
Great work mate
4:38:08 PM
Thanks for the awesome feedback Bob, I have more in the pipeline just needed the encouragement to keep writing it. Hopefully i can reduce the latency between outing and writing.

Gordoste and bones appreciate you guys having a read. It seems like I never see other climbers around the gorge until I'm already down in the depths or on the wall. It's actually a bit tricky to find a true solo experience. Not sure if te rest of the plateau is more popular with climbers but to be honest i hate the camping arrangements.


4:05:38 AM

I reckon Phillip Ivan would have made it without me as I completely gassed myself leading from the ground to BG. He’d be a good bet to get it done and is a great partner.

I’d love to try again though with my work schedule it wouldn’t be for another few months…
9:49:29 PM
I'm overseas this month but also need some time to regain my fitness. I wonder how long it takes for the cracks to become inundated with dirt and moss again.

4:26:02 AM
Your last attempt was in 2019? It will definitely have returned to its ahh ‘natural’ state by now.

3:43:25 PM
Did anyone else see that Nick Roach found and uploaded the film about Malcom Matheson's Ozymandias/Lord Gumtree linkup solo in a day? I'd heard about that climb but never seen the film. It's fantastic.
12:34:18 AM
Oh Yeah I saw this, very inspiring! He is so casual when he talks about his ambition. I wish I had even 5% of Matheson's old-school hardman spirit and conditioning.

4:56:23 PM
On 26-May-2022 sbm wrote:
>Did anyone else see that Nick Roach found and uploaded the film about Malcom
>Matheson's Ozymandias/Lord Gumtree linkup solo in a day? I'd heard about
>that climb but never seen the film. It's fantastic.

Thanks for posting this. I watched this many moons ago but misplaced the old VCR copy I had. I agree, it's fantastic. The way he so calmly goes about his business and the follow-up, aid instruction video is pretty cool too. It almost makes me want to go aid climbing... almost. I'll be sure to re-read HPT's story about the cold and ice to keep me away from the dark arts.

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