17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Finally got myself into gear and did this yesterday. Good climb.
First pitch is very good and interesting. I wobbled around for a while at the top of the first pitch where it gets a bit dirty and there's obviously no gear after the little flake. Luckily the holds to exit to the belay are buckets.
As Rupert says, first 6m or so of second pitch is poorly protected but not too difficult and Norm got a wire out right in the scrubby crack at 3m that Rupert suggested. I saw a party a couple of weeks back who had continued the first pitch up this section and then belayed on the left - not a bad move but I was all out of draws and slings. The rest of second pitch was fun.
On third pitch I started up steep crack directly above belay which wasn't too bad then up through another awkward bulge to the top bulge which was very dirty so I traversed right to next line. Proabably should have done what Rupert suggested and moved right to start the pitch or moved right at the top of inital crack.
We scrambled off to the right along the ledges and descended the Tiger Wall/Grotto Wall gully which landed us quickly back at the foot of Pan Grove with one easy 5m downclimb near the top and abseil off chains at the bottom.
A good trip which will only get better with traffic.