Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: Super Chute Rope Bag. Volume 25 litres. Single adjustable shoulder strap. Rope tarp dimensions: 146 X 126cm. 400d nylon. Assorted colours. (Holds up to 80M Rope)  $49.00
30% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias Direct / Lord Gumtree / #6 cam!
brendan
6/02/2009
8:51:12 AM
Hey so i have been getting beta on Ozy and sorting out gear, i have been looking at Max's gear description and route description on his blog
http://circus-maximus.blogspot.com/2006/01/ozymandias-cheats-beta.html
he talks about a number 4 and 5 cam for the last pitch, i dont have a number 5 cam only a number 4, would a number 3 and a block of wood work?? or am i better to just fix that pitch before i rap down to start the climb?? i dont want to get to the last pitch only to get stuck cause i dont have the right gear, or should i just harden up and climb the grade 24 offwidth (sound like so much fun)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2009
9:54:39 AM
A number 10 Metolius cam is the minimum size needed, as a number 4 friend is too small. The wood block would work with the #4 friend though ...

A #4 camalot makes life a lot easier.
It would be run out imo with only one cam of required size. Better to have two (borrow one from a mate!), so if you are aiding it then you can leapfrog them and leave one for pro (instead of back-cleaning it), two moves below the bolt*.


*There is other gear on that pitch. You can get a small/medium wire on the LH face at about 4m and there is at least one bolt high on the pitch (LH face).


>should i just harden up and climb the grade 24 offwidth (sound like so much fun)

For an offwidth it is an inspiring pitch. Very clean and with a nice curve to it, as well as being in the small end of 'offwidth', which tempts the free effort required to do it if you have the guns.
People like Lee C make it look easy!
brendan
6/02/2009
11:35:15 AM
sorry i should have been more specific i have 1xnumber 4 BD cam and 2xnumber 3 BD cams, so your saying i should have at least one more number 4 (better would be to have a number 5)

nmonteith
6/02/2009
11:45:34 AM
the bigger the better. two 4 camalots should be fine - but a 5 always makes things even easier. there is some pretty wide cracks on the upper bits of that route.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2009
12:03:46 PM
BD have changed their cam numbers/colours since I got mine(?), however over a number of times of ascending that pitch I have found the following re cam size/s useful:-
* The old fashioned #4 friend is too small, and needs a block of wood to pad it out.
* The #10 Metolius is OK.
* The red BD #4.5 camalot is very good.
* The green #5 camalot is excellent*.

If you want an easy time of it then two or three of the required size is the go.
You will also find them useful if you do the 'Fang' pitch (above the Gledhill Bivvy), in standard (aid) manner.


*Post edit:
I have since checked and the new BD green Camalot is a number 6 and is slightly bigger again (approx 1 cm), than the old largest sized #5 green Camalot.

nmonteith
6/02/2009
12:11:48 PM
I never regret lugging up the biggest cam i can find/borrow/steal.
gfdonc
6/02/2009
2:33:36 PM
I hear there's a large cam still in p1 of Passport To Insanity .. is there a statute of limitations before a booty call goes out after an accident?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/02/2009
10:03:18 AM
To answer gfdonc, I would say that genuine accidents should never equate to booty.
People having minor epics and retreating is different. Give them a reasonable time to collect, ... then after that, it potentially becomes booty imo.
Plenty of other threads on this topic ...
:)

Back to this thread.
>or am i better to just fix that pitch before i rap down to start the climb?? i dont want to get to the last pitch only to get stuck cause i dont have the right gear,

You can always traverse off left along Wilkinson Ledge, step over the gap/s at the end and finish up the Ozy Original route chimney/boulder choke area.
Hmm. A large cam might be handy for that too?
... Or, if you want some spice and add grades to the adventure, finish straight up the headwall about a third the way along Wilko Ledge, which is the last pitch of Strange Ritual and used to be called A3 (M5) Sportclimb. I guarantee you won't need* a large cam for that version of topping out!

(*or medium, or indeed what is generally considered small for that matter... Heh, heh, heh.)
kieranl
Online Now
8/02/2009
11:37:07 AM
On 6/02/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>I hear there's a large cam still in p1 of Passport To Insanity .. is there
>a statute of limitations before a booty call goes out after an accident?
>
Which accident would that have been left from?
gfdonc
8/02/2009
5:25:21 PM
Actually didn't really mean to imply too much there .. there's a cam in p1 but I believe the recent accident there was much higher up, yes? So the cam is booty.
kieranl
Online Now
8/02/2009
7:52:22 PM
I was just puzzled. The November accident was on Qincus Borba so any gear on Passport is not related to that and hence is, as you say, booty.
brendan
10/03/2009
11:03:29 PM
yeah there is a cam in the first pitch of passport, looks like a number 5 or 6, looks to be over cammed. tried to get to it but didnt have any gear to protect the moves to get to it, so alas it is still there for whoever wants to walk for an hour to get a cam that may or may not come out.

Organ Pipe
11/03/2009
9:59:11 AM
On 6/02/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>I hear there's a large cam still in p1 of Passport To Insanity

I was up there 2 weekends ago. It's a Black Diamond #6 Camelot. The newer model spectra design. It is indeed overcammed. The lobes themselves look alright, but the axles that pass through the head are bent quite a bit so the lobes are not parallel to one another. I didn't even try to get it out (but was thankful for the piece of 'fixed' gear).

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/03/2009
11:01:41 AM
On 11/03/2009 Organ Pipe wrote:
>I was up there 2 weekends ago. It's a Black Diamond #6 Camelot. The newer
>model spectra design. It is indeed overcammed. The lobes themselves look
>alright, but the axles that pass through the head are bent quite a bit
>so the lobes are not parallel to one another.

Looked like this one did it?

Capt_mulch
11/03/2009
11:06:05 AM
That's the last time I'm handing you my rack Rod...

Organ Pipe
11/03/2009
11:24:04 AM
On 11/03/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Looked like this one did it?

Crikey! Yep something like that. Does anyone know the history of it? Was it fallen on to move it into it's current position? Or was it just an irreversible placement? It must have been a teary farewell - those #6's aren't exactly cheap.

ajfclark
11/03/2009
11:38:40 AM
On 11/03/2009 Capt_mulch wrote:
>That's the last time I'm handing you my rack Rod...

I'm pretty sure Rod didn't drop it, he just picked it up for the person who did.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/03/2009
12:18:46 PM
On 11/03/2009 Organ Pipe wrote:
>The lobes themselves look alright, but the axles that pass through the head are bent quite a bit so the lobes are not parallel to one another.
&
>It must have been a teary farewell - those #6's aren't exactly cheap.

Nor are they repairable for that kind of damage.
Here is the feedback I got from BD.
>10/02/09
>Subject: RE: Is it possible to replace axles in a No 6 Black Diamond Camalot - repair required.


>Hi Rod,

>Sorry to hear about that. Unfortunately the axles cannot be replaced on C4's. It is swaged on at the factory and there is no shop that can do repairs on it. I guess it is time to get a new one. I wish there was more we could do. If you have any other questions feel free to send them my way.

>Regards,


>Jesse Mease
>Black Diamond Warranty

Capt_mulch
13/03/2009
9:50:11 AM
Oh goody, a guessing game. Did he back the car over it?? Dropped a boulder on it? Sat on it?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/03/2009
9:54:08 AM
On 13/03/2009 ti wrote:
>Go on Rod, I know you want to tell the story.

The story will be whatever appears in the trip report?
... ~> need not let facts get in the way of the details of why we do these things!!
Heh, heh, heh.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints