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18-Apr-2004 7:27:28 PM
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I jumped on bloodknok (17) the other day and got totally spanked!!!!
Is it just my poor technique or is it just a buffalo sandbag?
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19-Apr-2004 7:56:10 AM
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This sounds like a familiar tale! To me the couple of moves around the rooflet at 3/4 height are the crux and feel a grade or two harder. If I recall correctly I backed of the lead at the rooflet, but got up it ok seconding. It felt harder than 17 to me, but the rest of the route was a bit easier and protection was ok at the crux, so maybe 17 is about right?.
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19-Apr-2004 9:41:06 AM
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I though it was pretty ok for Buffalo. Perhaps even soft as there is actually really good gear all the way up....Araps-style sinker wires & no enforced runouts anywhere. The crux roof requires solid jamBing techniques, but the rest is fine.
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20-Apr-2004 12:35:06 PM
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I just felt really insecure even after aiding past the roof. Guess I just need to dial in my technique a bit more.
Thanks for your responses
Andrew
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29-Apr-2004 1:35:07 AM
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It's not too bad and pretty much spot on for the grade, on the plus side, the friction is good...maybe a little too good...
Have you been on Wicked Solitaire? That's another good solid Buffalo 17 ;)
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29-Apr-2004 10:02:45 AM
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i agree with you owen and james. the rooflet is definitely the crux but either side of this i felt the climbing was fairly graded at 17. the crack line takes as much gear as you can throw at it so it's really safe. crux involves a good jam to make an awkward side move around a bulge to gain the prominent line. it's an awesome climb. last pitch of wicked solitaire is deinitely a must too!
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23-May-2004 10:37:57 PM
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I think that I plugged a runner up in the roof and then laid away up the arete avoiding the crux jams.
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