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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Ozymandias Original or Direct

Peetiez

10-Mar-2019
6:42:56 PM

Hi all

Apologies in advance if this is already covered but we're planning to get on Ozymandias over Easter and wondering if we should jump on Ozy direct or original?

Searching through the trip reports it seems like direct is more popular. Plus the roof looks amazing.

Cheers

Peter

rb

11-Mar-2019
5:14:11 AM

If you're going to do it in a day with no haul bag etc the original is ok. Pulling lots of gear through the top pitches (horizontal chimneys) is soul crushing.
The direct is harder and more vertical and would be my recommendation.

phillipivan

11-Mar-2019
6:03:17 AM

On 10-Mar-2019 Peetiez wrote:
>Hi all
>
>Apologies in advance if this is already covered but we're planning to
>get on Ozymandias over Easter and wondering if we should jump on Ozy direct
>or original?
>
>Searching through the trip reports it seems like direct is more popular.
>Plus the roof looks amazing.
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter

Direct.

Lightfoot

14-Mar-2019
4:47:46 AM

+1 direct but i enjoyed both. I probably wouldn't opt for the original again unless going in a day and short on time when i got to the split.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

14-Mar-2019
7:44:15 PM

On 14-Mar-2019 Lightfoot wrote:
>+1 direct but i enjoyed both. I probably wouldn't opt for the original
>again unless going in a day and short on time when i got to the split.
>
>
+ 1, although the technical difficulties on Ozy Original are different to Ozy Direct.

The Gledhill bivouac is a magic place to be... & I highly recommend it.

phillipivan

16-Mar-2019
5:46:47 PM

On 14-Mar-2019 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The Gledhill bivouac is a magic place to be... & I highly recommend it.

Sandwiched as it is between some of the best, and most awkward climbing on the route.

Almost worth climbing slow to spend the night there.

sgodwin

17-Apr-2019
3:51:53 PM

Hey Pete,

When are you guys planning to be there? We're also aiming for Ozy at Easter. We'll be at Buffalo from Saturday through until Sunday the 28th

hpt

17-Apr-2019
6:34:57 PM

Hi Sgodwin, I am also hitting Buffalo through Easter. I was hoping to fix one pitch of Ozzy on Saturday afternoon (20th), and top out on Tuesday night (solo). As far as I know, Pete's plans have fallen through, I was in contact with him via email.

Look forward to possibly meet you there and take some photos if I see you on the wall. You can get in touch htweedley(AT)gmail.com

sgodwin

17-Apr-2019
8:18:36 PM

Hi hpt

We'll probably be a day or two behind you. My partner probably won't arrive until saturday, so we won't be in the gorge until sunday at the earliest. We're planning to spend a fairly leisurely three days on the wall. I've climbed it before, but my brother is new to aid climbing, so we're going to take it slow. Hopefully we won't ruin the solo vibe for you.

Scott

hpt

19-Apr-2019
8:04:03 PM

Hi Scott, I'm going to be slow too, possibly slower than I anticipate. I've been delayed a day and don't want to crowd each other so I will aim to start later in the week, Monday or Tuesday depending where you guys are at.

Cheers,

Hayden
0433313156

There are 10 messages in this topic.