Any one know if the belay at top of first pitch takes gear? Or is it bolted? My reading of the guide is that its natural. Was planning of rapping in to do the top pitch only.
On 30-Dec-2017 dan_b wrote:
>Any one know if the belay at top of first pitch takes gear? Or is it bolted?
>My reading of the guide is that its natural. Was planning of rapping in
>to do the top pitch only.
Itís a big ledge, and unless retroed takes gear.
If top pitching only, then an alternative is to be lowered in and effectively top-roped out...
From a leading perspective (and reading the guide/s for Buffalo), unless a belay is specifically mentioned as being bolted, then assume that itís not!
planning to lead, planning escape route if second not up to the task
Takes trad as far as I recall.
Escape route is to leave the rap rope in place. The crux is fairly low, they should be able to pull on the rope to get past it. Top arete is mostly 17-19.
Or leave a sling on the crucial bolts to yank on.