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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Muline Cave (General) [ Muline Guide | Images ] 

Author
Muline Cave guide on ACA
dalai
28/10/2006
11:14:41 AM
Sir Oinks - I am a happy user of expansion bolts and hangers (never placed a glue in on rock in my life) Just would rather Stainless steel that's all...

Zebedee
28/10/2006
12:26:28 PM
On 28/10/2006 rodw wrote:
>Siroinks...Ill save Neil the trouble....your a dickhead.
>
>Nice work Neil....good job.
Point by point rebuttal of the pigs message? or Meaningless personal abuse?
You Be The Judge.
"Four legs good, two legs bad."

The good Dr
28/10/2006
3:44:08 PM
>
>P.S. As for Nathan's bolts, these cadnium bolts and hangers have been
>tested on this rock at this site and are superiour in strength and durability
>to glue ins (and you can replace them with ease)!

Though the concept is good, cadmium plated bolts are susceptible to corrosion when the plating is either damaged or bi-metalic corrosion is possible. Cadmium and stainless steel contact is not ideal (I am assuming the use of stainless hangers), significantly worse than mild - stainless steel corrosion. We have been removing lots of cadmium plated bolts from buildings, which were installed less than 10 years ago and have corroded significantly and dangerously (have been used as fixings for various construction works and installations).

PS, I would like to see the 'test' data (as would others). Would you mind supplying it.

rodw
29/10/2006
3:36:48 PM
Can it be personal to an anonymous poster???

Im commenting about sniping from the anonymous gallery thats all, considering Neil is just reporting what is in public arena a clear precise format. But oinks could be right, we will now see the hordes of grade 20 something climbers decend on the crag and ruin it for everybody....shame Neil !!!!!...because thats what people do....spend there weekends floundering on the first bolt of climbs they have no hope in doing and ruining access for everybody.

>Point by point rebuttal of the pigs message? or Meaningless personal abuse?
>You Be The Judge.
>"Four legs good, two legs bad."

nmonteith
29/10/2006
11:39:53 PM
On 27/10/2006 SirOinksALot wrote:
>This crag is in an extremely delicate part of the Gramps, why publish this
>(taking into account that you haven't climbed 99% of the routes there)
>when you will draw attention to the place and lead to it's banning.

I think its more like 20% - but whatever. I think what will really lead to its banning is idiots leaving their
PETROL DRILL in plain view at the base of the crag (with a bag of bolts) for the last few months. I
dragged it out last weekend. It was lookign rather worse for wear (ie rusting!). The bag of bolts was
also a bag of rust (hmm - cad dynabolts anyone?).

This crag is visited every weekend by interstate and international climbers. It is one of the few crags
not contained in the Tempest/Mentz bible. It needed a guidebook. Its now has one. If someone who
isn't anonymous has a problem with it then please get in contact with me.

>If you can climb the routes there, you will hear about them without having
>to read about them on a bumbly web site like c--kstain!

So, since you are posting on c--kstain does that make you a bumbly then?


nmonteith
30/10/2006
12:18:44 AM
p.s. - There has been an online gudie to Muline hosted on this site for the last 2 years. I havn't seen an
explosion of people or access issues.

tmarsh
30/10/2006
3:14:51 PM
On 30/10/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>p.s. - There has been an online gudie to Muline hosted on this site for
>the last 2 years. I havn't seen an

Muline has been a published climbing area for 12 years - ever since the SW Grampians Interim Guide. There was a time when, due to the brush-tailed wallaby population in the area, access wasn't allowed, but that time is long since passed.

Dunno about it being any more or less environmentally sensitive than any other area. Cave-based climbing like this tends to concentrate people into one reasonably resiliant area and limits the damage to that area. If only visiting track-shitting euros would learn how to toilet themselves properly...
JakeB
30/10/2006
8:24:10 PM
Well dear SirOinksALot. you wa*ker!!!
this topo is a good thing for the grampians let alone australian climbing.
maybe we should get worried when we can't get parking, and have to line up for crank and dangle. Fat chance of this!!!!. so hope all the other people are getting excited about doing these world class routes. good job Neil.
enjoy .......

oh and SirOinksALot why do you climb?
jgoding
31/10/2006
8:18:50 AM
HI All,

Neil - great work on the topo. Bring on more I say. Great to clearly document the fantastic climbing in and around our fantastic Victoria, and your topos are lovely and easy to read.

On the bolting side of things I would suggest Stainless steel is always preferable however not always strictly required. My personal feeling is to glue in general rather than use expansions (unless you know for sure that the substate (i.e. rock) is totally flawless - i.e Buffalo Granite). Glue ins also protect the bolt from corosion especially where you have a ring or U so there is no chance of varying metal types, and hence corrosion.

I would also like to see the test data for these anchors, or at least a brand name and model of the bolts being used.

I recently had a chat with a HILTI engineer who pointed out a lot of the anchors on the market are designed for static loads (mainly the cheaper ones). Some are designed for dynamic loads (i.e. industrial machinery with lots of RPM's bolted to concrete, or signs being subject to large wind loads etc). In short it is ideal to spec/use fixing methods suited for dynamic loads as that is definitly what a climbing fall is. It is of course quite complex and there is a lot more to it than that.

Anyway - happy climbing all. I wish I was strong enough to enjoy the climbing at Muline! Sure looks brilliant. Emu Rock is however one place close by that's brilliant (and has no bolts at all!).

Joe
kp
11/02/2009
1:12:29 PM
Hello all,

Does anyone have any information on the unknown route right of Sullivan St (with 1 FH and a carrot ) ?

I seem to remember malcolm saying it was half equipped.

I am thinking of finishing bolting it ....

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
There are 30 messages in this topic.

 

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