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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
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VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Back Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Second Coming (22)

12:36:09 PM
Wasn't Take Five soloed by Robin Miller for the first ascent?

2:02:59 PM
On 8/11/2006 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>It probably gets the higher grade due to the protection element being
>considered by the FA?

Well, it's certainly supposed to under the Ewbank grading system.

2:11:05 PM
Yes, but if it was soloed on the FA then the pro was academic.
5:20:41 PM
Robin Miller graded Take Five with the leader in mind. From memory, back in the days before aliens etc, there was a v. poorly protected move about 15/16 at 6-7metres. Above that move there was a shallow horizontal with a pebble and you could get a dodgy #2 hex behind the pebble, then a move or two of 17/18 then some good gear. When I last led that pitch (in the late 80s) the pebble had gone and I think there was a good small cam placement - there was a cam placement anyhow.
9:08:12 AM
Yeah the guide book comment makes sense pre-friend/cams. And sure some of the cams are not 'ideal', but I thought they were ok (but sure I wasn't going to back-jump the route!)

I remember stacking a couple of nuts in a pocket down low somewhere - thought it was pretty cool, even if maybe not the most bomber.

I just don't like the idea that the guide puts people of doing a route when they'd otherwise enjoy it.

Fish Boy
11:59:42 AM
I might go and jump on it again then....itwas pretty dark....finished first pitch with a head light on. But I can usually see gear....;)

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There are 26 messages in this topic.


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