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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Atridae (General) Muldoon Area [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Peg on Muldoon

9:27:20 AM
Anyone know what happened to it?
8:51:08 PM
No. Just noticed today that the peg was gone while watching a guy from Hong Kong get quite scared on it. There's supposed to be a "good" wire near the peg placement but this guy didn't find it (and I haven't in the past either).

9:13:00 PM
There's a good #1 rock somewhere around there. It's shallow, but in the right direction to hold well from memory. That said, if you were only leading at that grade you would probably prefer the peg.
10:04:50 PM
I'm usually not too happy if there's only a #1 rock between me and a smashed ankle or two (unless it's a really, really good one).

11:23:47 PM
Yeah that peg looked really loose a few months ago I stacked a couple of RPs just to the left of it (in an old pin scar I think) to back it up.
6:56:15 AM
I did muldoon on the weekend, there is a peg on the ledge halfway up the first pitch, it is looking a bit dodge though.
Bob Saki
9:48:50 AM
I did it about 3 weeks ago and found the peg Darkxst is referring too. I had no idea there was "meant" to be another peg. I did however find a superb #3 RP placement to protect you as you come over the bulge.
9:54:29 AM
There used to be two pegs. The first was an old mild steel peg on the ledge next to some really good nut and cam placements. The second was "protecting" the swing onto the bulge - this is the one that's gone. Wouldn't be surprised if it just fell out.
10:50:22 AM
On 8/11/2006 Bob Saki wrote:
> I did however find
>a superb #3 RP placement to protect you as you come over the bulge.

Yes, i had #3 RP and also backed it up with a good #1 nut.
Bob Saki
11:25:31 AM
On 8/11/2006 darkxst wrote:
>>Yes, i had #3 RP and also backed it up with a good #1 nut.

there are two spots for placement one sloping downwards but more or less horizontal where every placement I tried would pop the just under that a small vertical line this is where the RP was.

I'm guessing you put the nut in the "horizontal" scar??
11:38:04 AM
RP was in a horizontal slot
nut was left a bit, near the first jug on the bulge.

1:35:55 PM
I did Muldoon about a month ago... I chucked in a wire where the cool chalked up side pull is before the bulge. I thought it would be dodge, but was actually pretty good!
Bob Saki
1:43:23 PM
On 8/11/2006 neats wrote:
>I did Muldoon about a month ago... I chucked in a wire where the cool chalked
>up side pull is before the bulge. I thought it would be dodge, but was
>actually pretty good!

that's very near where I found that super #3 RP placement but I couldn't articulate the location.

I would see no need to replace the peg and the peg at the base of the "cave" one would think is unnecessary too considering the good placements in that same little crack it's in. But maybe history play a part here. Wonder what others think about these pegs and their removal /replacement?
4:35:31 PM
A mate of mine knocked out the loose peg a couple of months ago while leading the climb. Apparently
when he rapped off he found it on the ground. To avoid people using the peg while loose and not being
able to place it properly again, he placed it on the notice board in the pines with a note that if someone
with the correct knowlege could re-position the peg in a secure manner it would be greatly appreciated, im
guessing this didn't happen. I think he used a wire placement instead.
5:21:18 PM
Good to hear the full story on it.
8:04:36 AM
Here are some pics of the peg and wire placement. I always placed the wire (which is very good) to back up the pin.

There are 16 messages in this topic.


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