Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Petzl: D11 "Rappel Rack". For use with 1 or 2 ropes. Diameters from 9mm to 13mm. Two red fixed bars make for easy threading. SUPER Special!  $119.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Western Cliffs Omega Block [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Boogie Till You Puke Beta
Kyneton Guy
29-Jan-2015
10:30:39 PM
Hi everyone.

I have been working hard on Boogie for the last two years and finally did all the moves last weekend. I wanted to know any tips for navigating the section from the third last bolt up to the anchors. I am fine finding the big pocket out left.

It is the section around, and immediately above the roof I'm finding doable, but inefficient. Im Going To try To Link the top Section next Before A red Point Burn In A Couple Of Weeks.

jprockbelly
30-Jan-2015
8:47:58 AM
But that's the easy bit! :)

From memory here is how I do it... although I haven't been on it in a while:

- So starting from the big pocket out left just before the roof. Step up on the 'peanut' hold on the point of the arÍte and go to the big jug in the horizontal break at the base of the roof.

- clip the bolt here and rest (I think this is the last bolt before anchor?), don't forget to breath.

- From here you follow a series of juggy sidepulls which face left (away from Witch). It should be pretty straight forward if you stand up on your feet and concentrate on turning your hips out, so as to do a sort of layback off the side pulls. For me it's only 2-3 moves to get to the next big jug under the anchors (although I'm pretty tall).

Hope that helps, although I'm sure other will give a better account
Kyneton Guy
31-Jan-2015
7:34:06 AM
Thank you. I did miss the juggy sidepull after the horizontal break.
jprockbelly
2-Feb-2015
9:32:31 AM
Glad I could help. Good luck with the send.
Olbert
2-Feb-2015
3:51:37 PM
I'm pretty sure the most accepted way to do it is get heinously drunk the night before, start the route early in the morning, get your knee stuck, almost puke on your rescuer and then shit your pants. Don't forget to have a camera guy onhand to make sure the world doesn't forget your shame.

http://vimeo.com/13831211
Kyneton Guy
2-Feb-2015
9:01:36 PM
Ha ha! Theres a Boogie Somewhere else!!!!

This is the Boogie we all know and love.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/camels-hump/omega-block-area/route/11948095

Sport route, no jamming. I will, however, heed your advice of getting drunk the night before.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints