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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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So you want to climb Bunny Bucket Buttress…

10:21:12 AM
Get a bigger screen phone!
7:40:30 PM
On 8/06/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>I just take a photo of the guidebook on my phone and have my phone in my
>pocket. It also doubles as a light, messaging service and camera.

How long do you get out of your battery? Have you got one of those re-fill kits?

9:46:25 PM
Just put it on airplane mode when you're not using it and it will last 4+ days.

3:09:14 PM
Thought I would revive this thread for a quick question...

What's people's preferred method for climbing as a group of three on BBB? When I'm in a pair, I normally do BBB with a single and tag line to pull the rope on the abseil. However I'm assuming that one rope length (60m) is not enough rope to get two seconders up some of those pitches, and on the first few pitches especially I can't just lower the rope end back down to the next seconder...

So just take two singles and have them each on their own ropes belaying via guide plate? And on the lower pitches and the cave pitch, clip both ropes into separate draws hanging from the same bolts on the traversing sections so they don't pendulum?

3:39:06 PM
Yeah. I'd use two singles. You lead on the first rope. The second climber trails the second rope and clips this back through the gear as they pass each draw while being belayed on the first rope. The third climber cleans the pitch while being belayed on the second rope.
3:48:05 PM
If the pitches are longer than half a rope length, either:

Get the second to tie into both ropes and re-clip the trailing one behind them. Third is tied into the trailed second rope. Then you bring them up separately. Third cleans the draws.

Or you tie in to both ropes and lead as if on half/twin ropes (use twin-rated ropes if you have them), then have both seconds climb simultaneously, 15m or so apart on separate ropes. Use long + short draws on the bolts to clip separately for singles/halves, or if the rope is twin-rated just clip both ropes to the same draw EVERY time. More work belaying them for you but quite a bit faster. Second/third only unclip/clean their own rope. The third needs to maintain that 15m separation to avoid getting clobbered on rope stretch if the second falls.

Practice lowering seconds on a guide plate first ;-)
4:46:16 PM
As an aside, know how to walk out. Its shitty but better than a rescue.
5:22:33 PM
>> What's people's preferred method for climbing as a group of three on BBB?

Apologies for being flippant, but my preferred method is simply not to. Groups of three on long multis tend to be very slow and prone to clusterf*cks, particularly with beginners.
5:59:20 PM
On 28/04/2016 Drake wrote:
>Apologies for being flippant, but my preferred method is simply not to.
>Groups of three on long multis tend to be very slow and prone to clusterf*cks,
>particularly with beginners.

I think history has shown that groups of two are quite prone to clusterf*cks on long multis such a BBB. In contrast if you have competent people then groups of 3 can be a perfectly safe, fast and fun way of doing a climb.

I generally find moving as a group of 3 only slightly slower than moving as a two. Belay change overs can be fast. There is only a little extra time for seconding if you belay them simultaneously. Hanging belays can make things a little more challenging and time consuming though.

(The first and only time I've climbed BBB it was in a group of 3.)
6:17:22 PM
3 fast people aren't a problem.

3 slow people, no matter what belay/rope setup, will take about twice as long as 2 slow people. Find someone else and make 2 ropes of 2.

6:45:43 PM
I've (unfortunately) done the walk out before. They are both quick climbers, just never done BBB and want someone who's done it before.

We will do it mid-week, and camp the night before so we have lots of time.

6:50:59 PM
Why not climb with old school double ropes so the seconds can simulclimb? Did Gmoser route in Canada that way last year. It's 3X as long as BBB.

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There are 52 messages in this topic.


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