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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
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Piddo - Beginners Steps - Sidetracks area

6:13:16 PM
On 1/09/2013 Mbrooks wrote:
>A piece of steel is a piece of steel mate! Fixed gear is fixed gear!

???? Your point ??

Apart from the fact that a Carrot is a piece of steel, and that a removable bolt plate is not fixed gear!

PS And that clay washes off from rock . . .

8:54:45 PM
If theres no more carrots, what the hell am i gunna do with all these blardy bolt plates ive been collecting for years?!
11:59:21 AM
>Don't bother - I've contacted Warwick already and organised with him to
>go have a look at the route and replace anything that needs replacing -
>bolt for bolt in the same places . . .
>So please leave Sidetracked alone!

Happy for you to do so and if you use glue in carrots, then I'll clip then when I do the route. Please post an update here with your assessment and bolting activities.

>Wow - thats so impressive! Though it reflects on you, and your 'ethics',
>more than it does them. I imagine if I had contacted them and told them
>I was going to use glue-in carrots they would have agreed too.

Not supposed to be impressive, I just think the use of carrots now is pointless. They were used years ago, because there was no alternative, just like hemp rope and waist harnesses.
3:14:18 PM
On 1/09/2013 Mbrooks wrote:
>A piece of steel is a piece of steel mate! Fixed gear is fixed gear!

Yeah and a cliff is a cliff, and a route is a route etc....

Surely there's still room for a bit of weirdness and diversity in climbing? The fact that carrots seem to piss off the septics/euros is more than enough reason to put up with the minor inconvenience of carrying bolt plates I reckon.
3:08:36 PM
Macca - have inspected Sidetracks with Warwick? I will be out there on the weekend and planning to have a look at those routes.

8:41:05 PM
Not inspected yet but the basic gist remains that it should be fine as is . . .

I'll be up that way this weekend, on the Dog tmw (drop by if you want) so we may be able to catch up and go have a look.
Pretty sure SideTracks should be in reasonable enough condition to be approached ground up to see how it all is on the sharp end . . ..

Or give us a call if you want to work something out...


4:51:13 PM
Didn't get out there this weekend
Will try to have a look soon

10:28:55 AM
On 29/08/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>? No, they aren't done because they have rubbish bolts and are dirty.
>They were never considered bold (apart from the rap-inspected headpoint
>route Sidetracks)
Seem's a bit silly that you have to rap inspect to try and climb it. Does not seem to get many ascents the way it is. I know is not the bible, but Sidetracks has zero ascents.

I would love to see this area fixed up, so many classics here, and they are all just rotting away.

Maybe fix up some of the crappy bolts on the sports routes around "Curtain Call" area.

12:57:49 PM
Maybe the first ascent involved rap inspection, but once it got a grade anyone could go ground up! Same as any sport climb that gets rap inspected and ring bolted. What's the difference? Apart from the fact that Sidetracks would be more run out then your average consumer sport route, because it was never meant to be a consumer climb . ...
I don't think it needs to be rap inspected in order to be attempted currently, you just have to be prepared to give it a shot . . .

And no, you can't use stats from thecrag to justify anything ... I reckon there are lots of climbs that have had lots of ascents, that are never listed anywhere online . . ..
Sometimes the climbs that have the least number of ascents have greater value then those McClimbs that always get climbed. McDonalds is not classic food just because lots of people eat it ....

If you replace bolts round there I think it should be like for like, hanger less bolt for hanger less bolt, not just auto replacement with rungs . . . .

E. Wells
12:36:59 PM
I am lead to believe there is now one glue in hangerless bolt before the jug traverse on quits (base of secondlastact aid ladder) , the others look just as strong as they ever were besides surface rust. There is also a few glue ins 4mtr to the right of the piton and carrot aids low down on Stage Struck with a small cam and a big wire this is a nice free-climbing option up slab at 21ish leading to Beginners Steps belay (or back into Stage Struck) Unclimbed. Go for it...(tommorow)
1:56:29 PM
I will cheer anyone who comes up with a viable alternative to Beginners Steps Pitch 1 to gain the belay... That thing is atrocious. 40m of average rock, dirt, vegetation, water and about 5 bits of very average gear in total.

Duang Daunk
3:17:29 PM
On 14/04/2014 PThomson wrote:
>I will cheer anyone who comes up with a viable alternative to Beginners
>Steps Pitch 1 to gain the belay... That thing is atrocious. 40m of average
>rock, dirt, vegetation, water and about 5 bits of very average gear in

Good to see you aren't a greenie, as I hear you preaching bro. What it needs is at least half a dozen ring bolts, eh bro?

E. Wells
5:31:08 PM
I think Paul would have been stoked with maybe one good carrot or two. I think a viable alternative is to do a 3 pitch ditty starting further left at wrapt, then across wall and up this new option (or further to cam pocket on Beginners steps). BTW I clipped in hard and had a little bounce on all the 2nd last act mank and it holds. Some of the bolts in the last overhang extend 50-60mm!!!!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
There are 33 messages in this topic.


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