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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Gravel Pit Tor (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
The first bolt on Question of Ethics (You Yangs)
CJ
5/11/2012
9:33:15 PM
Granite slabs require balance. Balance is one of the key skills of climbing. Learn it, use it, clip the bolt... do the climb. Simple

Goshen
7/11/2012
10:46:27 AM
>Finally, could Mikl please explain why he only put one bolt in Mean Streak!!!???
>I made it to the bolt once from the ground but bailed out without much
>further ado.

I looked back at my climbs I'd written down all those years ago, and had done Mean Streak twice; both times on pre-placed gear, and written a note "I couldn't imagine climbing it any other way". I believe there is a small wire at 3/4 height which would be dangerous and fiddly to place on lead, but might explain the lack of more bolts.
JDB
7/11/2012
11:31:42 AM
As an analogy to my thread on QoE

I had the pleasure of climbing "Boogie till you Puke" (Camel's Hump) yesterday.
Not many people climbed the thing in it's original state (i.e 2 bolts from memory)
Now it has been re-bolted (6 bolts) it now vies as one of the best climbs close to Melbourne. It is now safe (for the "mentally weak") and sees plenty of traffic. Q.E.D
uwhp510
7/11/2012
11:55:24 AM
Yes I agree completely that mass appeal is synonymous with quality in all fields, and I challenge anyone to find a single counterexample from any field of endeavor...
simey
7/11/2012
12:00:03 PM
On 7/11/2012 JDB wrote:
>As an analogy to my thread on QoE
>
>I had the pleasure of climbing "Boogie till you Puke" (Camel's Hump) yesterday.
>Not many people climbed the thing in it's original state (i.e 2 bolts
>from memory)
>Now it has been re-bolted (6 bolts) it now vies as one of the best climbs
>close to Melbourne. It is now safe (for the "mentally weak") and sees plenty
>of traffic. Q.E.D

Having done Boogie till you Puke in its original state back in the 80s my feelings are that climb is not quite as good with all the extra bolts. I'm not against retro-bolting, but Boogie till you Puke was perfectly safe as there was plenty of good natural gear which was pretty straightforward to place and it made the upper section a lot more interesting. Bloodline (22) on the other hand was a different matter.


Macciza
7/11/2012
12:08:11 PM
On 7/11/2012 uwhp510 wrote:
>Yes I agree completely that mass appeal is synonymous with quality in all
>fields, and I challenge anyone to find a single counterexample from any
>field of endeavor...

Are you serious? Mass appeal = quality??? WTF??? So mcDonalds is quality???
Who about banal popular music? Quality? Compared to virtuoso?
Mass appeal often equals lowest common denominator . . .
Many things that gain mass appeal are destroyed in the process . . .

Big G
7/11/2012
12:33:06 PM
On 7/11/2012 Macciza wrote:

>Are you serious? Mass appeal = quality??? WTF??? So mcDonalds is quality???
>Who about banal popular music? Quality? Compared to virtuoso?
>Mass appeal often equals lowest common denominator . . .
>Many things that gain mass appeal are destroyed in the process . . .

By the same token - you can't dismiss something as being of low quality just becasue it has mass appeal

gnaguts
7/11/2012
1:20:46 PM
On 7/11/2012 simey wrote:
>On 7/11/2012 JDB wrote:
>>As an analogy to my thread on QoE
>>
>>I had the pleasure of climbing "Boogie till you Puke" (Camel's Hump)
>yesterday.
>>Not many people climbed the thing in it's original state (i.e 2 bolts
>>from memory)
>>Now it has been re-bolted (6 bolts) it now vies as one of the best climbs
>>close to Melbourne. It is now safe (for the "mentally weak") and sees
>plenty
>>of traffic. Q.E.D
>
>Having done Boogie till you Puke in its original state back in the 80s
>my feelings are that climb is not quite as good with all the extra bolts.
>I'm not against retro-bolting, but Boogie till you Puke was perfectly safe
>as there was plenty of good natural gear which was pretty straightforward
>to place and it made the upper section a lot more interesting. Bloodline
>(22) on the other hand was a different matter.
>
>
It all depends on if the boulders even have protection possibilities in their upper sections, but 6 bolts in 12m seems pretty fair especially to prevent twisting an ankle on a ground fall. The interest is in getting up the things safely.
The projects I have bolted out at Black Range have close spacing plus being near to Canberra should become popular soon enough, and because of the convenient spacing the quality remains consistent throughout.
uwhp510
7/11/2012
1:33:55 PM
On 7/11/2012 Macciza wrote:
>Are you serious?

No. I just thought that my previous post would be funnier without /sarcasm tags...

Turns out I was right :)

JDB
7/11/2012
4:18:42 PM
>Having done Boogie till you Puke in its original state back in the 80s
>my feelings are that climb is not quite as good with all the extra bolts.
>I'm not against retro-bolting, but Boogie till you Puke was perfectly safe
>as there was plenty of good natural gear which was pretty straightforward
>to place and it made the upper section a lot more interesting. Bloodline
>(22) on the other hand was a different matter.

I respect your opinion, Simey but.....
This is where the lines (no pun intended) get blurred.

As you've mentioned Bloodline in its original state was dangerous. It requires one to basicaly soloing at 22/23 to two thirds height and the retro bolting has made it safe.

At the risk of opening a can of worms (should I say a second can) it appears to me that the philosophies of far more talented climbers than I ( I will not name them as they are far too numerous) appear lack empathy and understanding when bumblies like me raise an issue regarding safety; when the climb(s) in question (still no pun intended) they find relatively straight forward, and well within their abilities rather than their limits.

Tell me I'm wrong....................

wallwombat
7/11/2012
5:06:43 PM
On 7/11/2012 Davidn. wrote:

>It all depends on if the boulders even have protection possibilities in
>their upper sections, but 6 bolts in 12m seems pretty fair especially to
>prevent twisting an ankle on a ground fall. The interest is in getting
>up the things safely.
>The projects I have bolted out at Black Range have close spacing plus
>being near to Canberra should become popular soon enough, and because of
>the convenient spacing the quality remains consistent throughout.


WTF!!

If you want bolted boulders go to Legoland

People have been bouldering out there for years without seeing the need to sink bolts.

It's a bouldering area - if some of the boulders are too high for you, then climb something smaller.

Or try to save your ankle by finding a friend and getting them to spot you, like other people do.

davidn
7/11/2012
6:21:32 PM
On 7/11/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>WTF!!
>
>If you want bolted boulders go to Legoland
>
>People have been bouldering out there for years without seeing the need
>to sink bolts.
>
>It's a bouldering area - if some of the boulders are too high for you,
>then climb something smaller.
>
>Or try to save your ankle by finding a friend and getting them to spot
>you, like other people do.

You got trolled by stugang yet again. I hear Davidn grid bolted booroomba too, max 1.5 metres per bolt. His ankles could beat yours in a fair fight. Also, I hear the tooth fairy may be real...

Hey stugang should boulders get a route grade? http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/norton-summit/route/13557481

Seems like a dumb idea to me ;)

wallwombat
7/11/2012
7:59:25 PM
On 7/11/2012 Davidn wrote:
>You got trolled by stugang yet again. I hear Davidn grid bolted booroomba
>too, max 1.5 metres per bolt. His ankles could beat yours in a fair fight.
>Also, I hear the tooth fairy may be real...
>
>Hey stugang should boulders get a route grade? http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/norton-summit/route/13557481
>
>Seems like a dumb idea to me ;)

If that was the case, I apologise for my little rant.


stugang
8/11/2012
8:47:50 PM
On 7/11/2012 Davidn wrote:

>You got trolled by stugang yet again. I hear Davidn grid bolted booroomba
>too, max 1.5 metres per bolt.

why the f--- am i getting a mention in this duel of handbags at 10 paces?

>
>Hey stugang should boulders get a route grade? http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/norton-summit/route/13557481

I did it as route cos I needed to build cairns and bolt bolts in order to chip it. Now most people boulder it cos the holds are there, the crap cleared away and replaced with mats......besides the only boulder grades I've ever understood begin with B.

>Seems like a dumb idea to me ;)

Seems like you have no idea to me ):---

gnaguts
9/11/2012
9:36:35 AM
On 8/11/2012 stugang wrote:
>why the f--- am i getting a mention

wtf?
I think it was JC that said something along the lines of let the one without sin cast the first chockstone (identity)?

>I did it as route cos I needed to build cairns and bolt bolts in order to chip it. Now most people boulder it cos the holds are there, the crap cleared away and replaced with mats.....

OK, but I hope you did it in the usual boulder style of simply snapping flakes constructively rather tha taking a chisel to make monos. Good thing its a cave , unlike in the Black Ranges where I find the constant regrowth and fallen timber around the better probs frustrating, but nothing a good saw and maybe a bushfire won’t fix.


wombat
>If you want bolted boulders go to Legoland

Why is it OK to bolt there and not Black Ranges?
dalai
9/11/2012
11:07:21 AM
Not wanting to get drawn into this sorry argument... But Davidn - you do realize the Hole is a quarried cave?

gnaguts
9/11/2012
11:34:45 AM
Thats my point. Why is it OK to chip to make a climb in a quarry , but not OK to bolt a boulder to make it a safe climb in the back blocks? and for that matter I see no difference between that type of cleaning a climb and making holds to improve the climb , especially where safety is involved.
Estey
12/11/2012
9:14:11 AM
On 7/11/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>
>WTF!!
>
>If you want bolted boulders go to Legoland
>

You are not wrong there. Someone has been busy. I went out there yesterday evening and there is a heap of new stuff. LL has just replaced Gibraltar as THE granite sport crag in Canberra. The routes are actually quite good. My tendons and skin are rooted.

There are also some quite impressive boulder problems down the hill. It looks hard (and high).


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There are 58 messages in this topic.

 

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