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Satanic Verses at the hump info wanted |
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15-Oct-2012 1:02:17 PM
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Top roped this route ages ago, got really inspired, tried to do the start and experienced a serious WTF moment. Returned about a week ago and looked at the puzzling bottom section again, saw a bit of rock scarring and wondered if holds down low had perhaps broken off? Anyone got any info/beta on the start of this thing, I know that pretty much all the climbs on that side of the block have brutal start moves but this seems pretty much blank. Please let me know if I need to be either stronger, wiser or giving up.
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15-Oct-2012 1:13:01 PM
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It's very thin moves until just past the 2nd bolt - no broken holds, you just have to boulder it out.
I can't remember the moves but it goes up a couple of meters, then traverse 2 or 3 moves rightwards, then keep snatching upwards on tiny things until the good holds appear.
Preclipping bolt 2 is a good idea. Make sure you do the direct finish as it's the best part. Stronger - yes, wiser - definitely, give up - never.
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18-Oct-2012 12:14:00 PM
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Start was always very thin, even when I bolted it many many moons ago! Just crimp, slap and grit your teeth some more, thats the secret lol
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18-Oct-2012 3:29:35 PM
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Thanks all, reassured that holds exist I will both look and pull harder the next time I’m at the hump, psyched on the route, the top 2/3rds I’ve been on are awesome, here’s hoping the bottom 3rd hold up its end on the 3 star deal.
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18-Oct-2012 4:40:54 PM
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Its a beautiful thing... undercling to L hand crimp then choose your options... theyre all sharp! The bottom 1/3 doesnt add a star (it takes one away).. but it does add the meat and potatoes! Enjoy.
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