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Rap points not in guide?


surfandclimb

4-May-2006
6:28:24 PM

After sitting back and listening to all the comments made about this particular bolting issue I can honestly say that I agree with you Bob. After reading and Re-reading your comments your views and opinions seem to be very balanced and without any one eyed "my rules are the best rules" rhetoric.
The best and most important part of your post was your last paragraph, If more climbers werent so possesed by their opinions and were more open to accepting others thoughts then this whole bolting issue might have a chance of being solved.


nmonteith

4-May-2006
7:17:35 PM

I actually think beginners sometimes have a vastly better grip on reality when it comes to the bolting
issue. Us old farts take things way too seriously (and personally).


Chalk Free

4-May-2006
7:44:01 PM

On 4/05/2006 BoaredOfTheRings wrote:
>On 4/05/2006 Chalk Free wrote:
>>
>>I can.
>
>Come on then, lets have some examples?

Sorry about the delay, the boss wanted me to do some work.

Rather than a list of mine how about a list of areas that fit into BOTR's convenience category
Clytemnaestra Buttress
Horn Peice
Red Wall
Pillars of Hercules
Dunes
Morfydd
Pharos

For the record I have never placed a bolt. If someone has gone to the expense and effort to put in one then I'll use it not chop it.

kieranl

4-May-2006
8:45:12 PM

>On 4/05/2006 BoaredOfTheRings wrote:
>>On 4/05/2006 Chalk Free wrote:
>>>
>>>I can.
>>
>>Come on then, lets have some examples?
>
The Rap anchor down Dylan off the Pedro/Golden Fleece Wall.

I placed that anchor because lots of people were abseiling off a small tree just to the right (facing the cliff) to avoid the scramble down. The tree was dying, the soil was eroding and it was only a question of time until someone pulled the tree off while abseiling. This anchor would have gone in in the early 90's.
I tried to place it in a spot that was safe to scramble to and easy to pull the rope from.
For the record : I didn't consult anyone. I was a very experienced climber at Arapiles and had long-term knowledge of the problem (sidebar for Boared : I had climbed Snowblind before this time). Quite frankly I couldn't have lived with myself if someone had been killed by the tree pulling out while someone was abseiling on it.
Yes, Boared will sneer that there is an easy scramble route down, but many people were already taking the abseil option: they weren't going to stop doing that.
Post-edit : I seem to have become a less experienced climber as time passes, but I think the tree is still alive

BoaredOfTheRings

5-May-2006
12:25:21 AM

On 4/05/2006 kieranl wrote:
>For the record : I didn't consult anyone.

Neither does ACTUP, so each opinion is as valid as the other?

> I was a very experienced climber
>at Arapiles and had long-term knowledge of the problem (sidebar for Boared
>: I had climbed Snowblind before this time).

Big woop!! Did you think the pin should have been replaced with a bolt back then too?
But if you want to get all chest puffy about it, ticked it myself fair time before then and I didn't trust the peg! Although well done and not a bad effort for a hardcore weekender!

>Quite frankly I couldn't have
>lived with myself if someone had been killed by the tree pulling out while
>someone was abseiling on it.

Heard of Darwinism?

>Yes, Boared will sneer
(sniger, hardly ever sneer)
>that there is an easy scramble route down,

> but
>many people were already taking the abseil option: they weren't going to
>stop doing that.

They would if the tree had pulled!

>Post-edit : I seem to have become a less experienced climber as time passes,
>but I think the tree is still alive

Maybe you spent more time climbing weekending from Melbourne than weekending from Nati?

Nice effort though kieranl, hope your looking after my best interests again soon>


IdratherbeclimbingM9

5-May-2006
10:09:28 AM

On 4/05/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>Us old farts take things way too seriously (and personally).
Wozzat youth?
heh, heh, heh. :)

5-May-2006
11:36:19 AM

On 4/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>There's a little cliff that houses routes such as "The Stoat Steps out"
>and some other smallish (8m long) stuff. I seem to recall noting that
>the scramble down from those alarmed quite a few people. Does anyone know
>if this is still the standard means of descent, or if there is an alternative?
> I think "Moby Dick" has the same descent.

I think its still the crappy scramble....

Fish Boy

5-May-2006
3:17:32 PM

Stoat Steps out is further up central gully from Moby Dick. The Moby Dick walk off looks a lot worse than it is.

kieranl

5-May-2006
10:21:06 PM

On 5/05/2006 BoaredOfTheRings wrote:
>Nice effort though kieranl, hope your looking after my best interests
>again soon>
Boared, one of your problems is that you don't read what people say. I wasn't looking after your best interests, I was looking after mine.


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-May-2006
12:09:31 PM

On 5/05/2006 kieranl wrote:
I wasn't looking after your best interests, I was looking after mine.

That sounds like unilateralism.

wyt91t

8-May-2006
3:51:10 PM

bigginers think cliping bolts is scary untill they relise it's either that or natural pro that most have never used before, so then there happy to clip a bolt or to.

and as to choppers of bolts you guys are all chicken shits. if your going to chop a bolt have the balls to say it was you.

and im no trad nazi either i love trad just as much as sport.


Robb

8-May-2006
4:52:12 PM

speaking of bolt choppers. wyt91t is right on. Put your name out there if you want any credibility choppers.
still on the same point, a friend of mine mistakenly pronounced a certain nati local's name wrong one day.
"Gordon Poultry".
got quite a ring to it.


TinaLight

8-May-2006
5:04:47 PM

>speaking of bolt choppers. wyt91t is right on. Put your name out there
>if you want any credibility choppers.
>still on the same point, a friend of mine mistakenly pronounced a certain
>nati local's name wrong one day.
>"Gordon Poultry".
>got quite a ring to it.

This can't be right, how could someone be a known upholder of stirling trad values, yet also have done those awful things to "who's a naughty boy"? Does not add up.


tmarsh

8-May-2006
5:14:38 PM

> This can't be right, how could someone be a known upholder of stirling trad values,
> yet also have done those awful things to "who's a naughty boy"? Does not add up.

Hypocritical climbers? Whodathunk it?!? He's hardly the first person to espose one view of the world and act contrary to it.

Perhaps he is just a complex individual with an infinitely more sophisticated moral framework than normal people.


nmonteith

8-May-2006
5:51:13 PM

On 8/05/2006 tmarsh wrote:
>Perhaps he is just a complex individual with an infinitely more sophisticated
>moral framework than normal people.

Yep - that its for sure.

BoaredOfTheRings

9-May-2006
12:26:27 PM

http://alpineclub.stanford.edu/jtree/HM8.GIF


climbau

9-May-2006
2:32:40 PM

Great Link Boared! The sobering truth of climbing ego's.


howzithanging?

10-May-2006
8:01:09 PM

GET OVER IT bolt where apropriate, chop bolts if you... actually bolts are good dont chop them

There are 38 messages in this topic.