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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Asses Ears (General) [ Asses Ears Images ] 

Author
Triptych Pinnacle descent

ajfclark
14-Jun-2012
2:46:00 PM
I was up at the Asses Ears on Tuesday and on the way down the descent chasm I wondered "How do you get off Triptych Pinnacle?".

Any beta?
drdeviousii
14-Jun-2012
2:52:10 PM
We've been wondering "How does one read a guidebook?".

ajfclark
14-Jun-2012
2:54:07 PM
It's not covered in the descent text of the guide.

edit: I missed the footnote on the topo in the Select guide.

nmonteith
14-Jun-2012
2:57:07 PM
This is research FOR the new guidebook! My memory is so foggy... perhaps there is an easy scramble off that you need to roped up? There is rap slings on the back I know that much.
drdeviousii
14-Jun-2012
3:02:08 PM
Is the rap descent a sneaky secret? Surely everyone knows about it?

ajfclark
14-Jun-2012
3:13:54 PM
It's not in the original Asses Ears guide, it's not in Sublime Climbs, it's not on the ACA or the crag, it's not in the descent description of the Main Face in the Select Guide. The only mention I can find is in 6 point font at the bottom of the topo on page 108 of the select guide.

So no, it's not a secret, but it's not in the first few places I looked.

I did see some black tat/cord wrapped around a bollard on my way past but I was wondering if that was it or someone had missed the obvious descent and bailed leaving behind a nice biner or if that was the standard descent off the pinnacle. Rather than ask a closed, leading question, I asked an open one hoping to get a more descriptive, useful answer.
drdeviousii
14-Jun-2012
3:24:28 PM
So.... its in the guidebook. And you saw the slings/biner/tat? But you still asked how to get down? Simey's fault for not making the font big enough?

Edit. Not trying to be a smart arse (really). But I really think that so many of the older established climbs are described well enough. If its an older route then 99% of the time either (1) its in the older guides, which say if the descent is funky, or (2) there's reasonable way off. If people still aren't sure then they leave a sling or prussic to rap off?


nmonteith
14-Jun-2012
3:33:03 PM
So - what is the answer?

Chill Devious - he didn't spot the tiny mention in the guide until AFTER posting the original question on this forum.
rossco
15-Jun-2012
11:09:38 AM
I did it on the weekend with my brother, we saw the old looking rap tat but didn't use it. Instead, we scrambled off the right side of the pinnacle (as you look at the main cliff), it is easy but exposed. This gets you into the gully, from where you can easily scramble down the chimney back to the ground.

ajfclark
15-Jun-2012
12:26:34 PM
Thanks Rossco!

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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