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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozy direct aid - big gear?
bones
6/03/2012
1:30:29 PM
Hi all,

Just wondering if we have enough big cams to aid the last few pitches of ozy direct, or if we need to beg borrow or steal a few more.
We have two #4 cams, one #5 and one #6, all BD.

Thanks for any info

Cheers,
Tony.
PeteK
6/03/2012
1:37:57 PM
One #4 and one #5 is enough. You can alternate between bolts on the left and a cam in the crack

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/03/2012
1:38:57 PM
On 6/03/2012 bones wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Just wondering if we have enough big cams to aid the last few pitches
>of ozy direct, or if we need to beg borrow or steal a few more.
>We have two #4 cams, one #5 and one #6, all BD.
>
>Thanks for any info
>
>Cheers,
>Tony.

That is enough (maybe even overkill in my opinion), if you are prepared to leapfrog some placements before leaving pro.

Talking older style cams now... I have done it with;
2 x The largest metolius ((bigger than a WC #4, but smaller than a red #5 Camalot)
1 x red #5 Camalot.
1 x green #6 Camalot.

The top offwidth pitch (Lord Gumtree) takes a couple of small pieces on the left wall, and has a bolt on the left wall about where the crack gets too wide for gear.

The headwall pitch under that takes medium cams, and the Fang pitch (under the headwall pitch), uses the #4 and #5 size.
One Day Hero
6/03/2012
1:50:11 PM
I'd definitely take both the #4's and probably the #5. The #6 is a pain in the arse, and the only spot it goes in is 5m from the top of the cliff! Use a cunning trick instead to avoid carrying the thing.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/03/2012
1:59:43 PM
On 6/03/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>The #6 is a pain in the arse, and the only spot it goes in is 5m from the top of the cliff!
>Use a cunning trick instead to avoid carrying the thing.

... or do the last pitch of Strange Ritual (known as M5 Sport Climb), which avoids the Lord Gumtree final offwidth pitch by taking the topout headwall straight up to Wilkinson's Lookout!
~> Gear required is RP's, smallest alien slcd's, hooks, ... & a couple of crackenups are handy too if you have them, as the bolts are sportingly placed!!

bones
6/03/2012
2:06:14 PM
cool, thanks all for the info. Looks like we should be 'right!

goshen
7/03/2012
12:16:17 PM
Pretty sure it's quite doable on a single #4 camelot (plus std rack), on neither ascent do I remember having anything bigger. But taking 2 would make it a little more comfortable for sure.
Fish Boy
8/03/2012
11:32:59 AM
On 6/03/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 6/03/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>The #6 is a pain in the arse, and the only spot it goes in is 5m from
>the top of the cliff!
>>Use a cunning trick instead to avoid carrying the thing.
>
>... or do the last pitch of Strange Ritual (known as M5 Sport Climb),
>which avoids the Lord Gumtree final offwidth pitch by taking the topout
>headwall straight up to Wilkinson's Lookout!
>~> Gear required is RP's, smallest alien slcd's, hooks, ... & a couple
>of crackenups are handy too if you have them, as the bolts are sportingly
>placed!!
>
>

Ankle breaker that one...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/03/2012
1:10:27 PM
On 8/03/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>Ankle breaker that one...

Possibly, ... depending on what rips ensuing a fall; but I think the Lord Gumtree final 22 m pitch, done with only one #4 slcd would be the same!
;-)
Fish Boy
8/03/2012
5:22:19 PM
From what I remember (and I wasn't hazy that day...;) ) I certainly wouldn't want to fall from the last crumbly bat hook hole, definite ledge smack. Think I did about 5 or 6 hook moves from my gear.

The bat holes in Squamish are totally bomber compared to what I've used in Oz...
bones
13/03/2012
11:32:48 AM
Well I think Ben was happy to have a bunch of big cams for that last pitch

M9 - that alternate final M5 pitch looked a bit tough!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/03/2012
11:48:52 AM
On 13/03/2012 bones wrote:
>Well I think Ben was happy to have a bunch of big cams for that last pitch
>
>M9 - that alternate final M5 pitch looked a bit tough!

It is only tough till the fixed copperhead, then it is bat-hooks!*
~> which is why it was originally called M5 Sportclimb by Stefan Eberhard(!) ... & perhaps also because the bathook moves are sportingly protected by the odd bolt up to about half height of the climb along the way.
Heh, heh, heh.

(* ... Though I personally found the topout 'interesting'...)

Congrats on your/Ben's recent ascent of Ozy Direct, ... and you couldn't have got better weather for it.
~> I look forward to a trip report!
bones
13/03/2012
11:58:28 AM
On 13/03/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Congrats on your/Ben's recent ascent of Ozy Direct, ... and you couldn't
>have got better weather for it.
>~> I look forward to a trip report!

Thanks! Yeah the weather was absolutely perfect (and we weren't the only ones who thought so, we were sharing big grassy with a couple of nice canberran fellas).
The Ozy trip report those three guys put up last year set the bar pretty high, but we'll probably put something up once we sort out the photos

Ben_E
13/03/2012
8:52:24 PM
I'll second that "Thanks", M9. I think a great weekend was had by all on the North Wall.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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