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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bouldering around Buxton

Pat
24/01/2012
10:55:10 AM
Has anyone explored the boulders that you can see on various ridges around Buxton and to the SE of Catherdral Range? These have become visible since the fires.
dalai
24/01/2012
10:56:54 AM
I only bouldered on the Sandstone (3 developed areas) in the range. Boulders to the SE would be granite?

shortman
Online Now
24/01/2012
11:07:01 AM
I know where u mean. Looks like they are on private property. Been meaning to have a closer look.

Pat
24/01/2012
11:24:01 AM
Possibly Dalai, they are on the top of the ridge that is just to the east of Sugarloaf and the Razorback. They do look white and typical round granite, but hard to tell - they are only three k's in a straight line from the Sugarloaf area.

Shortman, there is a road to the top of the ridge that goes of Sth Cathedral lane. It looks like it goes through private property but hard to tell. It goes right to the top where the biggest concentration of, and the biggest boulders are.
Fish Boy
24/01/2012
11:26:59 AM
Lots of granite boulders on those hillsides...everything except the Razorback itself is granite basically. I spent much time beating around the bush there with the DSE post fires and nothing really inspired me. Lot's of unfeatured stuff and some small cliffs as you head toward Lake Mountain from the top of Mt Marg...

Pat
24/01/2012
11:46:56 AM
Where's Mt Margaret in relation to Cathedral and Lake Mountain?
dalai
24/01/2012
11:47:55 AM
On 24/01/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>Lots of granite boulders on those hillsides...everything except the Razorback
>itself is granite basically.

Nearly everything... ;-)

Pat
24/01/2012
1:05:51 PM
C'mon Dalai, don't tease . . .
Fish Boy
24/01/2012
1:27:18 PM
Marty is talking about Bissets I'd guess...although I think that was granite too...

When you get to Buxton, turn before the pub on the rd towards Marysville. A few minutes up the road turn left onto Mt Margaret Rd, take the right fork when you hit the dirt...you'll end up well over 1000m in elevation with some logging coupes around you. Lake Mountain is kinda south or east or both from there...this is all off the top off my head, so YMMV...
dalai
24/01/2012
1:35:20 PM
On 24/01/2012 Pat wrote:
>C'mon Dalai, don't tease . . .

IMO not as good as the areas on the main range and still with lines I need to go back for... ;-)

Personally preferred the Sugarloaf hillside where many of the problems are on the uphill side of the bedding planes.

On the Sugarloaf - Next time have a look at the Ghetto (named after the Ghetto Simulator problem at Hueco). Particularly steep and long bedding plane (4 long problems from L to R V2, V6, V4, V3) where a steep slab follows on the left side behind you so you can carefully step off the V2 (and V6 which joins it) and the V4 which has a shelf behind which the edge of is below on the sloper crux but offers a flat landing for the top section.

Best access is above and to the left of Flypaper wall past a large white gum (may not be there anymore?). First time to find though walk to the left end of the main sugarloaf cliff - there is a squeeze up left below a nasty looking chockstone. The Ghetto is above and on the other side of this squeeze.

*Edit - Not Bissets Fishboy - though was always meaning to head back out there. I recall a slightly overhanging granite wall with a flat landing above the creek on the walking to Bissets to might be okay. But back then I was misguided and only looking for routes and this wall was just too low for that. Can't recall either if the wall had any features...

Pat
24/01/2012
2:09:46 PM
I know of some other areas that might have some steep stuff. Next time I'm up there I will look again and let you know what they are like.

davetheyounger
24/01/2012
7:22:52 PM
Mt Margaret is the hill behind and slightly south of the Sugarloaf, It is Mt Margaret road that you turn up to get to Cerberus road that takes you to the Sugarloaf. I work in Marysville and once checked out the boulders, on what is known as granite peak, and basically they are rubbish, Dalai is right sugrloaf is much better. And as far as any other hidden granite gems in the area forget that too. I spend my life in the forest and have checked out every blob of rock, all rubbish.

shortman
Online Now
24/01/2012
11:02:22 PM
On 24/01/2012 Pat wrote:
>C'mon Dalai, don't tease . . .

It's the only way he knows.....u have to be part of the secret society to get more info.

:)

How does that saying go?

Keep searchin and you will find...or somethin like that.

shortman
Online Now
24/01/2012
11:07:39 PM
On 24/01/2012 davetheyounger wrote:
>Mt Margaret is the hill behind and slightly south of the Sugarloaf, It
>is Mt Margaret road that you turn up to get to Cerberus road that takes
>you to the Sugarloaf. I work in Marysville and once checked out the boulders,
>on what is known as granite peak, and basically they are rubbish, Dalai
>is right sugrloaf is much better. And as far as any other hidden granite
>gems in the area forget that too. I spend my life in the forest and have
>checked out every blob of rock, all rubbish.

Nut not true.....but not everyone can handle days of searchin, and disappointment to climb just one nice boulder. Four hours of gettin lost to climb one nice V3 or so is not everyone's cup of tea. But gee it's rewarding when you find 'em.
dalai
24/01/2012
11:20:17 PM
On 24/01/2012 shortman wrote:
>Nut not true.....but not everyone can handle days of searchin, and disappointment
>to climb just one nice boulder. Four hours of gettin lost to climb one
>nice V3 or so is not everyone's cup of tea. But gee it's rewarding when
>you find 'em.

Exactly! I have spent many days over 20 years following whispers of sightings of rock, scanning satellite images, checking geology texts with 99.9% failure rate. Mostly ended up walking around in the rain or the heat for hours to come up empty handed...

You don't want me to tell you where the good stuff is and ruin this part of the process do you shortman? ;-)

shortman
Online Now
25/01/2012
9:21:16 AM
U could have been a little more sharing! But yeah, sometimes it's been fun bush bashing and havin a bit of adventure.

rodw
25/01/2012
9:42:54 AM
Agree with ya there Dalai..great adventures to be had come out of washed out climbing days and just heading off in the bush to search for the next big thing....99% of the time covered in leeches and scratches and not much else.....with the constant thought...."Ill just check around this corner then head home"

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
25/01/2012
4:52:38 PM
On 25/01/2012 rodw wrote:
>Agree with ya there Dalai..great adventures to be had come out of washed
>out climbing days and just heading off in the bush to search for the next
>big thing....99% of the time covered in leeches and scratches and not much
>else.....with the constant thought...."Ill just check around this corner
>then head home"

... but you drew the line at sharing Nangar ants with ww & ww&s?
;-)

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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