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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds Van Diemen's Land [ Van Diemen's Images ] 

Author
Lifes Sad Parade (25) @ VD Land

nmonteith
20/02/2006
11:46:40 AM
What a classic route! Kent hyped this route up to me a year ago during his mission of ticking every route
at the crag (he still has a few more to go). To set the picture... it climbs a lovely steep left facing flake to
start (bomber wires) then a long move up to a sloping ledge. You jam some cams in a horizonal then bust
out right - using go go gadget arms to reach a sketchy finger lock (if you have an armspan shorter than
1.8m you won't be able to do this move). Gasto, crimp and stem rightwards to reach a great hanging left
facing corner crack. Jam, fingerlock and layback up this wonderful feature for 10m to its conclusion. The
last move is a crazy gasto with your left hand and a wild swing away from the corner onto the face
above. A truly memorable move for a truly awesome route. So next time anyone goes to VD Land, throw
a basic trad rack in and have a go at this classic climb. It really deserves more ascents... just make sure
you have very long arms. I sadly don't have the reach....

Super Saiyan
20/02/2006
9:33:56 PM
On 20/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
just make sure you have very long arms. I sadly don't have the reach....

bah! goshen (the FAist) is short as! you just gotta be a bit more dynamic if you are short! PS i thought it was graded 26...
KP
21/02/2006
8:38:03 AM
yep, as neil said, this is a brilliant route. Is there still a fixed wire on it ?

nmonteith
21/02/2006
9:01:39 AM
On 20/02/2006 obsessedclimber wrote:
>bah! goshen (the FAist) is short as! you just gotta be a bit more dynamic
>if you are short! PS i thought it was graded 26...

I must just be crap then. Oh Well. Dynamic sideways throw to fingerlock?

nmonteith
21/02/2006
9:02:36 AM
On 21/02/2006 KP wrote:
> Is there still a fixed wire
>on it ?

Yep. Just right of the first bolt.

Super Saiyan
21/02/2006
9:03:12 AM
On 21/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>On 20/02/2006 obsessedclimber wrote:
>>bah! goshen (the FAist) is short as! you just gotta be a bit more dynamic
>>if you are short! PS i thought it was graded 26...
>
>I must just be crap then. Oh Well. Dynamic sideways throw to fingerlock?

yep
Nottobetaken
21/02/2006
9:21:49 AM
On 21/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>I must just be crap then. Oh Well. Dynamic sideways throw to fingerlock?

Don't go and try India then - or Yesterday for that matter.... or Procul...

nmonteith
21/02/2006
9:56:34 AM
Have you done this move Obsessed? I sat on the rope for ages trying to work out any way of getting that
hold. I was so far off, and the rock bulged out making the dynamic move seem impossible to me. With
my pinky in the far right end of the horizontal I still coudln't touch the fingerlock and just overbalanced
and fell off. I must try the crazy sideways fall into the fingerlock next time! Very frustrating. Apparently
Kent can just reach across easily to the hold form the horizontal. Grade 25 for him - much harder for
others perhaps?

Super Saiyan
21/02/2006
7:19:23 PM
have not done the move but been belayer to both goshen and another climber... i remember they did it a few ways

a pop into the fingerlock-catch swing-into reverse flag to stop barn door

and a weird foot out to the right first thing... it was a while ago

its on the list right after de la soul and velvet goldmine...

nmonteith
22/02/2006
9:20:07 AM
I guess I'll give it a go again soon then...

goshen
6/03/2006
12:33:21 AM
Hey, i'm so stoked to see a post about my climb! It's not dymanic (much), but balance, and subtle 'under'-cling of the little roof at the bolt. L hand leaves the horizontal slot before the R hand gets the vertical.

As a point of interest, when I first eyed the route, I tried a ground up approach first. Somehow managed to get to the vertical slot at the bolt (there was no bolt), then finding I couldn't go back, jumped wildly for the corner, pulled a small hex on the way down - the feet swiping through the brush at the base!

nmonteith
6/03/2006
8:55:05 AM
It's a great route Goshen!

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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