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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Seventh Pillar ***18 M2

6:46:22 PM
that bolt looks very... "interesting".

Organ Pipe
2:24:58 PM
On 9/05/2007 Organ Pipe wrote:
>On 9/05/2007 WM wrote:
>>See this thread.
>sorry WM, us non safe cliffs vic members can't access this thread (we
>get a login page instead).

I'm hooked up with SCV access now.

On 9/05/2007 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>Though the thread is still worth accessing and reading by him as it is
>relevant to OP's enquiries...

You were absolutely right M9. It was a good read.

3:33:28 PM
On 10/05/2007 Organ Pipe wrote:
>I'm hooked up with SCV access now.

I hope the initiation ceremony wasn't too painful. The swelling will go down in the next week. Just don't
forget about the delivery of your first born child, and photo evidence of route you have retro-bolted at
5:14:20 PM
Hey Neil,
I thought the plan was to replace one or two of the bolts on the bolt ladder with glue in carrots, so as to make it safer, but still maintain the look/character/whatever?
From the pic linked earlier in this thread it looks like hangers. Any specific reason for this?
(Not that I'm complaining - just that I thought keeping it as carrots was a pretty good idea).


7:08:50 PM
On 10/05/2007 Ronny wrote:
>I thought the plan was to replace one or two of the bolts on the bolt
>ladder with glue in carrots, so as to make it safer, but still maintain
>the look/character/whatever?

Yere that was the original aim. I actually replaced those bolts whilst belaying a friend aiding the second
pitch! I kept her on belay as I rapped down the fixed rope (dubious!) and hand-drilled the 12mm
expansion bolts and placed them. I didn't have my power-drill with me that day. So, keeping to tradition
those bolts are still all placed by shoulder power. Belaying a slow aid climber is very boring - i was killing
two birds with one stone so to speak.

safer cliffs vic
9:20:30 AM
SCV did some minor work on the weekend to this route. On the free climb Left Hand Varaint there was two bolts at the end of the flake, an ok cad plated dynabolt and a rusty carrot. SCV removed original rusty carrot bolt and replaced with glue in u-bolt (Ramset 101). Manky tat tieing the whole lot together was removed. This is now a good belay for people attempting the free ascent of Medusa, or a rap point for chickens who don't want to commit to the awesome traverse!

On the infamous bolt ladder of the aid route, another bolt has been replaced with a dynabolt. It now goes crap, crap, good, crap, crap, good, crap, crap, good! New camo grey hangers have been installed on these dynabolts to minimize visibilty.

Oh, and the stick clip for the 2nd pitch is still there.

8:28:41 PM
Excellent thread! Lots of good info here. Glad I found it via the search function.
1:28:27 PM
On 5/01/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>Yes, blue tape were mine. Congratulations on your booty. Rock Hardware
>shipped me a couple of replacements before Christmas.
>Re your last sentence - oops!

Did this on the weekend, and found a very old looking RP with blue tape on it. Has it been up there for 5 years ??
Also removed the tat at the top of pitch 2, which has been there at least a couple of years.
4:00:49 PM
Oh, so you could have given my 5yo RP back when we bumped into you in the car park yesterday?

Hunh. Booty-hunter.

4:36:21 PM
hahaha I didn't realise it was yours until I revived this thread!
Maybe we should donate it to Mikl and see if it would suvive a gear test?
5:16:25 PM
Well you need to read Chockstone more often. On two counts. Test jig is at my place, either way I get the RP!

8:37:42 PM
On 14/06/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>Oh, so you could have given my 5yo RP back when we bumped into you in the
>car park yesterday?
>Hunh. Booty-hunter.

Relax, we left one of my wires behind to replace it. Maybe in addition to being a pretty spectacular climb SP should be viewed as being a a sort of swingers club for RPs.

By the way Neil, thanks for replacing some of the bolts in the ladder, it made the world a much more pleasant place while leading that first pitch.

It would seem there has been a collective decision to leave the other manky and bent bolts in the ladder there until they finally break or bend to the point where they spit someone off, however. Is there really a strong rationale for that on a route that I assume sees at least a bit of traffic?

I realise a fall from that ladder isn't going to kill you, but it would still be pretty easy to rip your leg open on one of the bolts below you or something like that (in my experience aid falls tend to send you scraping down the wall rather than falling out from it).

If the consensus is that the ladder should stay as is, so be it. If it's just a case of lack of time or $, though, I for one would be happy to donate the money for the hardware and belay someone up for the rebolting.

9:50:09 PM
I sort of wanted to leave it a bit exciting - clip a good bolt, sketch up a couple of manky ones, clip a good bolt etc etc. I don't live in Vic anymore so if anyone has the inclination to replace the other ones go for it...
One Day Hero
1:50:54 PM
Nah, leave the shitty carrots. It's a good lesson for folk on how bad bolts can look while still being strong enough for bodyweight.

Besides, if you're training for Ozy (direct), you'll need to learn how to deal with manky carrots sooner or later.
7:00:36 PM
On 15/06/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Nah, leave the shitty carrots. It's a good lesson for folk on how bad bolts can look while still being strong enough for bodyweight.

Or how weak they actually are. A number of years ago I was solo-aiding Seventh Pillar and I had one of the original bolts fail on me just as I was standing up on it to reach the slot at the end of the second pitch.

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There are 55 messages in this topic.


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