Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond "Wire Hex" SET. (Size 4 to 10) - 7 pieces. Comes with a "free" Ovalwire Karabiner for racking.   $109.00
16% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 16. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 307
Author
Trashing Tassie ... it's beyond salvation
jesus
15/01/2011
1:37:58 PM
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2011/01/12/The+Usual+Ethics+Rant+About+First+Free+Ascents+and+Bolts+at+Trad+Crags%2C+Chapter+46?focusedCommentId=195035143#comment-195035143

FINGAL WAS ONCE BOB MCMAHON'S ' SPIRITUAL HOME ' ... NOW BORN-AGAIN-BOLTER , GERRY , HAS BUTCHERED YESTERDAYS REALITY INTO ' TOMMOROWS DREAM ' ... JUST AS HE HAS DONE AT EVERY OTHER CRAG IN NORTHERN TASMANIA .................. BEN LOMMMMMOND IS SIMPLY THE FINAL PLACE LEFT TO BE CRUCIFIED ... JUST GET ON WITH IT BOYS , AND STOP BEING HYPOCRITS .

Thankfully the bolting frenzy, at the Tyndal Range , calmed down a few years ago ; and the hobart boys have finally realised that Mt Wellington is over-saturated with bolts ... Fingal has gone from being a very special place to being just another tasty-fast-food experience ,as Bananaglitch hurls himself forward , semi-blindly , in pursuit of a commercial dollar , derived from mediocre-standard guide books ...he vainly clings to profoundly important values of the past by trying to keep the Ben bolt-free , while at the same time spurring on ' the state of the art ' at every other crag ...Clearly the influences of Danny Ng and Saphire Rose have fuelled his addiction for the drill ...


A BOLT-FREE BEN LOMMMMOND * NOW * SERVES NO PURPOSE AT ALL ......GET OVER IT AND START PUTTING UP SOME QUALITY BOLTED CLIMBS .....ITS TIME TO ' YODDLE UP THE VALLEY ' (reference to the route that ended the bolt-free era at Frog Buttress ) ..............BUT TO EASE THE TRANSITION , TRY TO UNDERSTAND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ' SPORT CLIMB ' AND BOLT-PROTECTED ADVENTURE CLIMB ..................GOOD LUCK ... AND BE GENTLE ...









Macciza
15/01/2011
1:48:37 PM
Yeah but I hope to use his topic name at some time in the future oduring the 'Comic c--ty' debate ( sorry, punchup - it just makes me thinking of fisting tho . . .)
jesus
15/01/2011
2:13:54 PM
bingo... ive hit the perfect chord ...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/01/2011
9:20:50 PM
On 15/01/2011 davidn wrote:
>For a first post, that was total shit. Thanks.

I doubt this is his first post, as it is very Hex like to my reading of it...
onsight
15/01/2011
9:38:52 PM
Hi Hex.

Romfrantic
15/01/2011
9:58:20 PM
On 15/01/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 15/01/2011 davidn wrote:
>>For a first post, that was total shit. Thanks.
>
>I doubt this is his first post, as it is very Hex like to my reading
>of it...

lol...we've missed ya hexy
spicelab
15/01/2011
10:13:51 PM
Didn't understand the first post of this thread, even less the one it links to.

FFS froth-merchants, if you want to make a case and convert people to your cause, at least try and make it coherent.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/01/2011
10:49:02 PM
On 15/01/2011 davidn wrote:
>As a newer member, I'm ignorant of Hex, but it would have been way more
>spooky if he had 666 posts rather than 999.

There is a reason for that.
~> One had to pass through the hex-sandwich to break the milestone of 1,000 posts...

If you ever have idle time, there is a lot of humour and gems of wisdom buried in his posts, along with a lot of 'chaff', if you care for retro-reading!
jesus
16/01/2011
8:13:54 AM
>>>if you want to make a case and convert people to your cause, at least try and make it coherent...

No case...no cause...it's perfectly coherent to those who know the half-assed ' evolution ' of Tasmanian rock climbing ...............the idea is to enlighten the rest of youse , so youse dont just have a mindless ' road trip ' when youse bother to go there...
jesus
17/01/2011
9:37:16 AM
THANKS
Tastrad
21/01/2011
5:48:13 PM
Hi filthy Phil. Haven't seen or heard from you for close to 30 years since the days of the dirty hands gang. Good to see you're still interested in climbing. It would be good to catch up and reminisce about all your great contributions to Tassie climbing; classic routes such as Wasters Roof and Crashing Through The Undergrowth. However, I think your greatest altruistic efforts were in track clearing, by trundling massive boulders down the hillsides. Some of our old mates said you'd lost your marbles and having read your forum thread I believe it. U talk about butchering yesterdays reality, but by the sound of it you have no handle on todays reality concerning the Tas climbing scene, as you observe and comment from a distance (W.A?) via cyberspace. In the mean time I'll just keep doing what I've been doing for the last 30 years adding to the 700 new routes I've already done, discovering new crags and writing mediocre guidebooks to them all.
jesus
24/01/2011
11:44:49 PM
John Fisher wrote :

>>>The abseil bolts have been chopped in keeping in line with the Ben as a bastion of >>>trad climbing in Australia. The idea is by having the Ben as a “no bolts” zone, it >>>keeps wankers from putting up poxy sport routes...

I wooda thought that ,eg , ( glue in stainless steel ) carrots bolts are well and truly part of ' trad climbing ' in the Australian context . Occasional bolts at ' trad ' crags ,. such as Frenchmans Cap are perfectly acceptable ....not to mention blantant all-bolted routes in the ' wilderness ' area of Geryon / Acropolis .

>>>wankers putting up poxy sport routes...

A recent climbing trip to Mt Blackwood and then The Gorge in Lawnceston , clearly suggests that Nowra hasn't got a monopoly on wankers ...

Just as ' Yoddle up the valley ' had both Rick White and Kim Carrigan screaming in protest , until they realised the contribution that bolts were making to Frog , so too the same thing will happen at Ben Lomond once the first big QUALITY semi-bolted adventure routes are established ... hopefully the ' wankers ' have learned from their excesses in the Gorge , and other places ...

Bolts ARE part of the AUSTRALIAN trad climbing tradition / experience ...




jesus luvs u ...





kieranl
25/01/2011
12:02:52 AM
still WTF in many respects but at least you've learnt how to turn off Caps Lock.
jesus
25/01/2011
12:14:03 AM
:D


>>>WTF in many respects ...

yeah well at least ur starting to snap out of ur blurred perception of things further south ...

I * DO * luv u Keiran ...

; )
jesus
19/02/2011
3:03:34 PM




'...Simon Young says: New one at paradiso. Not at all 'squeezed in', this is a really cool new addition!!

Hit and Run*** 25 27m
Start up Retrograde Amnesia for a couple of moves before heading R, following hangers up steep wall. Clip one U(long runner), before powering up exposed, techo headwall. Finishs at Expendable Youth anchors. To be continued...
FA Simon Young

Its all on hangers, to help make it easier to distinguish!!...'

>>>Not at all 'squeezed in',

>>>Its all on hangers, to help make it easier to distinguish!!...'

Yeah ... right ... Simeese... sounds like good advice for ur mate Gerry ... cos by the time he's finished grid-bolting the Fingal head-wall ...

Hey Simeese ... those bolts u recently added at Coles Bay ... is it now possible to reach left, while climbing the top bit of the trad-classic Sweet Revenge , and clip some of ur bolts ? ...


yours in conditional love ... j


jesus
19/02/2011
3:08:32 PM




The logical next stage in the ' development ' of climbing in Tassie ... circa 2015 ...

This is as close as the southern ' infidels ' will ever get to climbing DAD's stair way to heaven ...


jeeeeeeeeesus christ !!!!!!!!!!!!

rodw
19/02/2011
7:02:03 PM
I was following this thread but lost the point around the "http://" mark in the first post.....wtf..either I havent drunk enough or had to many to know whats going on...Ill drink a few more and see if I Can work it out.

sliamese
20/02/2011
10:34:11 AM

>Hey Simeese ... those bolts u recently added at Coles Bay ... is it now
>possible to reach left, while climbing the top bit of the trad-classic
>Sweet Revenge , and clip some of ur bolts ? ...

Oh i just bolted Sweet Revenge! Now u have a choice whether you soprt climb or trad climb it. Trad climbers find it easy, cos its a crack so its 22 on gear. But because its a crack, sport climbers find it more like 28 if you clip the bolts!

;)
jesus
20/02/2011
2:44:41 PM
>>>Oh i just bolted Sweet Revenge! Now u have a choice whether you soprt climb or trad climb it. Trad climbers find it easy, cos its a crack so its 22 on gear. But because its a crack, sport climbers find it more like 28 if you clip the bolts!

>>>;)


hhhmmmmm...........if u wernt such a funny-far-car , I'd call on the spirit of Moses to part the Tasman Sea , next time u went to jump off the big block in front of Harlequin ...

; )


But seriously ...

: P


>>>Now u have a choice ...

Yeah but maybe thats the point , Simeese ...... maybe as the sub-culture moves from ' wankers putting up poxy sport routes ' to 'deluded wankers putting up poxy sport-link-ups ' , the concept of ' choice ' and integrity of existing routes ... even existing sport routes ... goes .... well .... u know ...

..............











Winston Smith
21/02/2011
8:23:12 AM
I comprehend most of what Jesus is banging on about: having climbed in Tassie regularly over the past few years I also find the whole "no bolts at Ben Lomond but bolt the f*** out of everywhere else" quizzical to say the least.

I'm not advocating opening Ben Lomond to sports routes but I can see the absolute logic and benefits of re-establishing the chopped rap stations. These would alleviate the stress on the vegetation in the descent gulliies, negate the need to leave tat on the cliffs and ensure that all the mainland bumblies lured to the Ben by Climb Tasmania's guidebooks manage to spend more time climbing than walking to the crag and off the top of routes. Local knowledge is certainly a time saver when climbing at the Ben...

By the way, it is nonsense to have included rap stations in the most popular guidebook to the Ben - Climb Tasmania - and then chop/oversee the chopping of said rap statons, thus immediately making the guidebook outdated. It seems fairly self-defeating. (I know that the main Ben Lomond guide is up to date but I believe that most visitors use the older omnibus Climb Tasmania guide).

Having visited most of the Northern, East Coast and North-West crags I must say that the number of mediocre, badly bolted routes is staggering. Bolting practices have been developed over years here on 'the mainland" but it appears that Tassie sport route developers have decided to reinvent the wheel.

As a result I climbed routes at Hillwood where the crux was unprotected on several "moderate sport routes" and required additional gear to prevent a groundfall as well as routes where removable hangers had been epoxyed to carrots - in lieu of fixed hangers - only to have fallen off or have been souvenired.

In saying that, other routes we climbed at Hillwood seemed grand as were a couple of the ringbolted routes we climbed at Coles Bay - they climbed well and complemented the quality trad at the rest of that amazing granite destination.

Blackwood Rocks was an interesting afternoon's diversion on soft sandstone where worn and breaking holds will ensure that some routes get harder with the passing of time.

While it's easy to knock routes and to sound ungrateful, despite the sheer amount of time and money spent developing crags, it's worth pointing out that every time a route is put up you're staking your claim on climbing history. With that being the case it's worth ensuring that they're quality routes.

 Page 1 of 16. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 307
There are 307 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints