Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

The Asgard Project


nmonteith

21-Apr-2010
9:56:14 AM

On 21/04/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>I think the bit he did on Top Gear did him a huge disservice. I watched
>it and thought "What a f---ing tool"... Other things I've seem him in
>he doesn't come across like that at all...

That's just the show. Anyone who isn't Jeramey gets made to look like a tool. I actually thought they came across ok on that episode considering the 'extreme' angle the producers were obviously angling for...

One Day Hero

21-Apr-2010
10:06:56 AM

On 21/04/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>That's just the show. Anyone who isn't Jeramey gets made to look like
>a tool. I actually thought they came across ok on that episode considering
>the 'extreme' angle the producers were obviously angling for...

Good example of what making movies is all about. I'm sure the guys climbed the route, but did they really beat the car by just a couple of minutes? Did they really spring the base jump on Jeremy without him having prior knowledge of it? It's pretty easy in that case to pick the stuff being put on for the camera............but what about Dean Potter? He made a video of a 1st ascent of a desert crack where he "couldn't stop to place gear" and consequently took repeated 20m falls.............clearly that was more about selling DVD's than ticking the route!


nmonteith

21-Apr-2010
10:09:50 AM

On 21/04/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>Good example of what making movies is all about. I'm sure the guys climbed
>the route, but did they really beat the car by just a couple of minutes?
>Did they really spring the base jump on Jeremy without him having prior
>knowledge of it? It's pretty easy in that case to pick the stuff being
>put on for the camera............but what about Dean Potter? He made a
>video of a 1st ascent of a desert crack where he "couldn't stop to place
>gear" and consequently took repeated 20m falls.............clearly that
>was more about selling DVD's than ticking the route!

Very very good point ODH. The Verdon sequence took them a week to shoot for the Top Gear spot, so I think that answers you question about the spontaneity part...

singersmith

21-Apr-2010
11:01:29 AM

Let's put it this way: He sat down in my living room, opened his laptop to show us the Top Gear spot, and said something that could be paraphrased as "First of all, nothing you see on television is true, period; so go easy on me here."

"Delicate" Dean Potter does indeed know something about this.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21-Apr-2010
8:10:13 PM

On 20/04/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>(much like the dudes who insist on writing a 3 page trip report on chocky
>for EVERY w/e they hit the rock.......having a good time on a 3 pitch route
>in the blueys is not sufficient material for a readable story!!!)
>
Why so defeatist ODH?
Why not celebrate climbing at every opportunity?
:)


nmonteith

23-Apr-2010
10:59:46 AM

oh dear. I've just been watching a BBC reality TV show called "Take Me To The Edge" - which stars Mr Holding as the host. It starts with the classic line "Leo Holding is an unstoppable force in the hard core arena of extreme sports. He travels the far corners of the world seeking out new gripping experiences (get it get it?). And now Leo is offering 5 others the opportunity to experience the life blood of adventure for themselves. Leading them on a life changing (cut to dopey British girl "Im learning so much abou me and wha i want") global epic journey to take on the some of the toughest (cut to crying lady on rope swing "I didn't know it was going to be so hard for me sob sob)" and most adrenaline filled right of passage that the tribal world can throw at them. A journey beyond boundaries - a journey to the edge". Suddenly the line between Bear Gryls and Mr Holding has been crossed I'm afraid...


ajfclark

23-Apr-2010
11:06:29 AM

Here's the promo video: http://video.stv.tv/?bcpid=37654293001&bctid=14985618001


rodw

23-Apr-2010
11:38:55 AM

I don't have a problem with it....is the agnst about his public profile coming from maybe the fact his 9-5 job is better than ours and we have to wait until the weekend to have as much fun?


evanbb

23-Apr-2010
11:45:15 AM

On 23/04/2010 rodw wrote:
>I don't have a problem with it....is the agnst about his public profile
>coming from maybe the fact his 9-5 job is better than ours and we have
>to wait until the weekend to have as much fun?

In a word, yes.

I hate everyone who seems happier than me.

singersmith

23-Apr-2010
12:17:57 PM

*sigh*

"You do not increase the happiness of a man eager to attend a performance of Abies Irish Rose by forcing him to attend a perfect performance of Hamlet instead. You may deride his poor taste. But he alone is supreme in matters of his own satisfaction."

"Each individual is the only and final arbiter in matters concerning his own satisfaction and happiness."

"If a man drinks wine and not water I cannot say he is acting irrationally. At most I can say that in his place I would not do so. But his pursuit of happiness is his own business, not mine."

"The only source from which an entrepreneurs profits stem is his ability to anticipate better than other people the future demand of the consumers."

"What distinguishes the successful entrepreneur and promoter from other people is precisely the fact that he does not let himself be guided by what was and is, but arranges his affairs on the ground of his opinion about the future. He sees the past and the present as other people do; but he judges the future in a different way."

"No dullness and clumsiness on the part of the masses can stop the pioneers of improvement. There is no need for them to win the approval of inert people beforehand. They are free to embark upon their projects even if everyone else laughs at them."

-Ludwig von Mises


cruze

23-Apr-2010
12:19:03 PM

I can't understand how an apparently genuine down-to-earth guy can throw off at what happens on TV as being fictitious to a friend and then repeatedly sign up for TV shows/movies that hype up what he does.

I guess everything has a price.

singersmith

23-Apr-2010
2:22:02 PM

Someone has to sell fiction, why not you? Here's your chance:

http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/manvswild/fan-vs-wild/degreechallenge.html

One day Hero

23-Apr-2010
5:42:46 PM

On 21/04/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>
>Why so defeatist ODH?
>Why not celebrate climbing at every opportunity?
>:)

Well, I figure there are 200 people on this site who go climbing most weekends. If we all write up every single weekend there will be no room left on the internet for porn.

I like celebrating climbing by going climbing, or reading GOOD trip reports like;

1) Dave and Oli f---ing up their mate's ropes

2) Your aid climbing intro w/e where novice aiders were encoraged to lead hard new routes resulting in massive groudfalls! WTF?!

I don't want to read

"Me and Bob and Barry went sport climbing to Shipley and Bob led the 19 but started to shake at the first bolt and he went right hand to the crimp but the real sequence goes left hand to the pocket so Shiela started singing "holy shit, you're gonna deck" by the Ramones but Bob got his foot on the smear and then Barry said he'd have a go at "Ram My Set" but it was 2 grades harder than his best lead ever which was in queensland when we discovered a new bouldering area under the big pineapple and spent two days developing new stuff by breaking flakes off and brushing the rock and then I did a V2 but it might be as hard as the red problem in St. Peter's which Jonno reckons is nearly as good as the crux on this route at point perp on the 5th of june when big beetles came round collecting money for clams left homeless by the tsunami......"

Which is what 2/3 of trip reports end up being! I wasn't there, I don't know the people involved, I don't get your in-jokes. If it isn't piss funny or mega-epic or has some point of definition, its not for mass consumption so keep it to yourselves!

One day Hero

23-Apr-2010
5:45:59 PM

On 23/04/2010 singersmith wrote:
>Someone has to sell fiction, why not you?

That really sums the whole thing up nicely. I don't mind these guys selling fiction, I just won't buy it!

dalai

23-Apr-2010
5:51:48 PM

On 23/04/2010 cruze wrote:
>I can't understand how an apparently genuine down-to-earth guy can throw
>off at what happens on TV as being fictitious to a friend and then repeatedly
>sign up for TV shows/movies that hype up what he does.
>
>I guess everything has a price.

If the lad can get the bills paid and still focus on his climbing at the same then why not?

It's a fickle market. Why not get as many dollars out of his 'fame' whilst climbing and extreme sports is currently in vogue? Nobody is forcing you to watch any of this, just sounds like sour grapes…

climberman

23-Apr-2010
8:11:37 PM

On 23/04/2010 One day Hero wrote:
>I don't want to read
>
> "Me and Bob and Barry went sport climbing to Shipley and Bob led the
>19 but started to shake at the first bolt and he went right hand to the
>crimp but the real sequence goes left hand to the pocket so Shiela started
>singing "holy shit, you're gonna deck" by the Ramones but Bob got his foot
>on the smear and then Barry said he'd have a go at "Ram My Set" but it
>was 2 grades harder than his best lead ever which was in queensland when
>we discovered a new bouldering area under the big pineapple and spent two
>days developing new stuff by breaking flakes off and brushing the rock
>and then I did a V2 but it might be as hard as the red problem in St. Peter's
>which Jonno reckons is nearly as good as the crux on this route at point
>perp on the 5th of june when big beetles came round collecting money for
>clams left homeless by the tsunami......"

I may have had one beer too many but that was one of the best things I've read on the iterwebz about climbing in a while. Even better than Kevin's comment on all Suburus coming with sea kayaks.

egosan

23-Apr-2010
8:31:35 PM

Gold! ODH, Gold!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-Apr-2010
10:16:52 AM

On 23/04/2010 One day Hero wrote:
>2) Your aid climbing intro w/e where novice aiders were encoraged to lead
>hard new routes resulting in massive groudfalls! WTF?!

Kind of brings to my mind the Gore Vidal quote; "It is not enough to succeed, others must fail!" Heh, heh, heh.
~> A lot was learnt that w/e, but the only sandbagging that took place would perhaps be better described as the art of self deception! Trogsters massive groundfall still rattles me in a couple of ways, and as a consequence I learnt to insist on future similar exercises, that 1st aiders looking to test the limits of thin aid use a top rope, else they will change the focus from thin, to 1st aid literally.
The other aspect of that fall that rattles me, is that I tested my home made Leeper style cam hooks on those lines while lead-roped-soloing. The initial jobbies were failures, and they bent and straightened during usage, with the resulting interesting moments when I was scratching to get a small RP in simultaneously to a cam hook greasing out (on more than one occasion), with bugger-all pro beneath me. In hindsight I was looking at the same result as Trogster and although I knew it at the time, the full import of possible consequence did not hit me until Trogsters incident.

>I don't want to read
>
> Me and Bob and Barry went (snip)
>so keep it to yourselves!

Your pseudo TR illustrates admirably that the content can be secondary to the 'telling' of the story, particularly if one doesn't let facts get in the way of entertainment well told.
Wallwombat once wrote that Capt_mulch has the ability to make a mundane trip to the supermarket an entertaining TR read; ... and after reading your tongue in cheek example, I look forward to reading more TR's from your adventures(!), because you have the same ability.

One Day Hero

27-Apr-2010
10:16:20 AM

On 24/04/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Kind of brings to my mind the Gore Vidal quote; "It is not enough to
>succeed, others must fail!" Heh, heh, heh.

That's an effing good quote......and now I'm REALLY worried about your intro w/e......."So who's hanging shit on aid climbing now, bitches? heh heh HEH, muthafcuka!"


gordoste

27-Apr-2010
3:25:24 PM

De gustibus non est disputandum

There are 80 messages in this topic.