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Blue Mountains must do's


..::- Chris -::..

28-Feb-2008
2:22:23 PM

Guys and Gals,
I'm heading to the bluey's for a couple of weeks around easter haven't been climbing there in over 7 years : ) looking to climb sport / trad - low twenties high teens.

We were keen on doing a few easier multipitch sport route (17-21ish) if someone can recommend any nice classics?

Any other must do routes Sport - 23 under Trad 20 or under that people highly recommend (Or just general good area's) Also any good area's to avoid the Easter Rush....

Accomodation was another question i had, last time i stayed with friends and I've stayed in the blackheath caravan park which is what's on the cards currently... Any recommendations ?

I've got the new 2007 guide book so i'm working my way through but it all looks so good ! Any advice / tips would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Chris : )

qman

28-Feb-2008
2:33:09 PM

Cosmic County is probably my favourite crag if its open again (mixed climbing). maybe a bit old school.

Upper Shipley is good in that grade for sporty routes.

Piddo for trad. (really old school)

Recommended routes, where would you start, there are countless.
obvious classics,
Eternity - Piddo
Jack high - Upper Shipley,
Exibition wall - York,
Lyptus,- Boronia point

etc.. etc... countless to name.


tnd

28-Feb-2008
2:33:13 PM

On 28/02/2008 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>...
>We were keen on doing a few easier multipitch sport route (17-21ish) if
>someone can recommend any nice classics?
http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/climbing/newroutes/reservoir_dogs.html

Also Mikl's easier multis - Dirty Rotten Pigs, West Face of the Mirrorball, Bunny Bucket Buttress (they're in the book).

>Any other must do routes Sport - 23 under Trad 20 or under that people
>highly recommend (Or just general good area's) Also any good area's to
>avoid the Easter Rush....
Anywhere decent will have a few people at Easter, but it's not as bad as Araps.

>Accomodation was another question i had, last time i stayed with friends
>and I've stayed in the blackheath caravan park which is what's on the cards
>currently... Any recommendations ?
The caravan park's ok except the owner went to the Basil Fawlty school of customer service. Free camping as described in the new guide.


kuu

28-Feb-2008
3:03:03 PM

On 28/02/2008 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>
>Accomodation was another question i had, last time i stayed with friends
>and I've stayed in the blackheath caravan park which is what's on the cards
>currently... Any recommendations ?
>
If you are seriously considering the Blackheath Caravan Park for accomodation over the Easter break I'd suggest you think about booking NOW.

http://www.visitbluemountains.com.au/accommodation-details.php?atdw=9054090


evanbb

28-Feb-2008
3:05:23 PM

For Trad, just go to Piddo every day and do every 2 star (new system) and higher climb in the guide, starting at about 13. Deinitely do the Phantom, Carthagenian, Psychopath, Eternity, Flake, etc, etc. I've said it before and will no doubt say it again, Piddo's the best crag in the Blueys, probably the world.


..::- Chris -::..

28-Feb-2008
3:22:44 PM

Thanks for the info and that area looks sweet those climbs all read well thankyou.

Any more recomendations for perhaps a full days multipitch sport route. I can't give names but i thought there were a couple of easier 4-5+ pitch sport routes around or am I thinking of something super hard ? I've looked under porters pass but too hard, ps that picture of Soul Catcher is killer, if i was climbing that hard it'd be a must do...

I wish the guide had the heights of the climbs in the appendix in grade order and stars i'm guess i'm being fussy... ; )

I'm still comfirming the eact days i'm going so hard to book but I'll be booking asap if not i'll find somewhere ; ) From the people who have camped in the free camp area's close to or around blackheath which would be the pick of the bunch ?

I've done enternity and a few of the classics at Piddington which will be getting repeats for sure. I do love that area. At Borinia I did try Lyptus last time i was there don't think i ended up getting it, but i did most of the climbs around the other (less attractive) side ; ) that is another area i will be going.

Any more multipitch 70m+ sport or trad routes people care to recommend from personal experience ?

Kind Regards,
Chris

28-Feb-2008
3:56:52 PM

Bald Head has some good single pitch but very exposed sport including several around 19-22. unlikely to be crowded


tnd

28-Feb-2008
4:01:22 PM

On 28/02/2008 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>Any more recomendations for perhaps a full days multipitch sport route.
Bunny Buckets Buttress will take you all day. Hotel California as well, but don't waste time redpointing the first pitch, haul on the draws if it's too hard (it's graded 21 but is 22-23).

>From the people who have
>camped in the free camp area's close to or around blackheath which would
>be the pick of the bunch ?
Probably the one out at the end of Hat Hill Rd in Blackheath, but I'm not sure if it's open now after the big fires a couple of years ago.

psd

28-Feb-2008
6:44:41 PM

On 28/02/2008 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>Any more recomendations for perhaps a full days multipitch sport route.

Have you found the Pierces Pass guide online? If you want sport multi-pitch it is an awesome place to go.

http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/pdfs/pierces_pass4.pdf

West Face of the Mirrorball is an easier multipitch sport route that would take most of a day - last pitch in particular is great. Not as long or hard as Hotel California but I haven't done HC so can't compare.

Also the campsite at Perry's lookdown is pretty good and close to Blackheath.

climberman

28-Feb-2008
9:13:49 PM

Clockwork Orange 20
shipley lower, ten minute access, three varied and interesting pitches. Take the second pitch, a stonker. Possibly the blueys gear route classic at the grade.

qman

29-Feb-2008
6:30:53 AM

for an easier multi pitch excursion do Sweat Dreams at sublime point

Cursive

29-Feb-2008
7:37:12 AM

If you have climbed multipitch before, sweet dreams is a bit of a bummer. Good intro to multipitch, but the climbing is a joke (14 my ass).

Pierces Pass is definately on the cards for a fun day out.

Piddo is great like everyone says it is.

If you want great sport climbing then consider heading to Bowens Creek. The walk in might deter some crouds, and most of it stays bone dry even in the heaviest of rains.

qman

29-Feb-2008
7:56:22 AM

tru, but sweat dreams has good stances, veiws and exposure, but the climbing is v easy.

How about the Eyrie at mt boyce (grade 16 i think) only 2 pitches though. but a great belay cave.

re: Comments on Boronia Point. Some good climbing there but the L side stuff is very short. Try, upper Shipley for sure.

also at york, worth looking at are Atomic Punk, Zipper?? and Aunty Jack??. ?? i think thats there names.

mikl law

29-Feb-2008
7:57:26 AM

On 28/02/2008 tnd wrote:
>Also Mikl's easier multis - Dirty Rotten Pigs, West Face of the Mirrorball,
>Bunny Bucket Buttress (they're in the book).

Actually Dirty Rotten Pig is not in the new guide, but is available here;

http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/climbing/newroutes/boars.html


climbau

29-Feb-2008
8:58:56 AM

Around the corner from the Eyrie at Boyce are a heap of 49m ring bolted low grade sport climbs. Nice climbs and nice grades. couldn't tell you exact grades as a mate just dragged me out there last time I was up and I blindly jumped on what he told me to.
Head left from the top of Eyrie as you are looking out and find the plethora of anchor bolts on the top of the cliff.


nmonteith

29-Feb-2008
9:53:15 AM

Bladderhozen (23) at Pierces Pass is an awesome three pitch grade 21 (seriously). I kept waiting for the hard crimpy moves that typify Bluies climbing but they never materialized. Don't be a afraid to step it up a notch in grades on these crags, as the bolts are usually close together and its easy to dog up the hard section with rests. I thought Smegadeath (23) was one of the best multi-pitch routes i've ever done for variation and exposure.


langles

29-Feb-2008
11:06:33 AM

re; "Around the corner from the Eyrie at Boyce are a heap of 49m ring bolted low grade sport climbs. Nice climbs and nice grades. couldn't tell you exact grades

from left to right, looking at the cliff from the base, they are;
16 on fixed hangers (about 15!)
16 on rings (about 15)
19 mixed (take a few cams)
18 mixed (ditto)
18 mixed (ditto)
17 mixed (ditto)
the last two are a little run out at the start. There all start a few meters apart from each other. Pretty sure the Eyrie is a 12.


tnd

29-Feb-2008
11:52:51 AM

The Eyrie is graded 12 but the pro is a bit sparse on the first pitch, although the moves into the cave are well protected (big cam + bolt).

You could easily spend two or three full days at Mt Boyce and do quality climbs the whole time, trad and sport. Other classics there:

Gently Mine (14) trad crack
Pig Iron Slaughter (21) early 80's sport route (cam or two down low then carrots - stainless glue-in replacing the original bashies)
Goldstar (19) trad crack
Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks (21) sport (rings)
Baby Carrots (14) rap-in climb-out, carrots
Light My Fire (20) rap-in climb-out, carrots and rings
Firebug (17) trad

Might as well throw in a couple of mine:
Cat's in the Cradle (19), three pitch sport on rings
Penny Arcade (20), three pitch sport on rings

All are in the book + see the Mt Boyce web site http://www.geocities.com/mountboyce/

mikl law

29-Feb-2008
12:07:09 PM

Hot Weather
Sport - Bowen's Creek, The Freezer
trad ? - anywhere early
Long sport - Pierces pass till 2.30 pm, Ordinary route, Dirty Rotten Pig

Wet
Sport - Bowen's, The Glen
Trad - hmm

Cold
Sport - Shipley, Barden's Lookout
Trad- the county, Piddo, Zigzag


..::- Chris -::..

29-Feb-2008
12:20:02 PM

Thankyou all so much for the information. Many many routes there we are going to have a crack at, Hotel California looks like nice outing....

Can't wait.
Thanks again for the replies and information, muchly appricated!

Chris..

There are 30 messages in this topic.