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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 6 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 129
Author
Burnley - In need of some work

belayslave
3-Mar-2008
7:00:25 PM
On 3/03/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>Is anonymous planning to strike at a certain inner city gym any time soon?
>They have problems that need solving - perfect work for these modern day
>grime-spinner stoppers!

LOL! :) I can just imagine a band of balaclava-clad, allan key brandishing boulderers taking a city gym
by siege on a mission to save us all from spinners and spooge.

Wouldn't that just scare the pants off the staff there!
hippy
4-Mar-2008
10:38:50 AM
Seems to me there are way too many folks worrying about where the dosh is coming from and who have completely forgotten about the enthusiasm and passion that went into creating Burnley in the first place. Necessity is the mother of invention and as I understand it the balaclava clad route setting ninjas have exercised this theory in a completely non confrontational manner. At worst they have proved a point that its got nothing to do with funding or new holds just putting up some new routes so we can all train without yawning. Am looking forward to the next strike on the 30deg wall ;-)
vivalarevolution
4-Mar-2008
3:02:52 PM
First off all, thankyou for all the positive feedback we have received so far. Everyone we have spoken to is extremely happy with the results of the clean & re-set. Our aim was to prove that a wall could be easily reset with great quality problems within a day.

Our small group of volunteers donated their time, and money from their own pockets to get this job done quickly & effectively and would happily assist again with any future works required to keep Burnley in good nick.

Please support the revolution!

Please post as much feedback as possible, including any suggestions for improvments on chockstone.

We need to show the VCC / BBS that maintaining Burnley with an annual reset is a positive thing for Victorian climbing!

Cheers,

Team Action Direct

Viva La Revolution

nmonteith
4-Mar-2008
3:25:42 PM
Apart from bruising a few egos i reckon you guys did an awesome job!
darkxst
4-Mar-2008
6:11:33 PM
Great to hear the 45 wall has been re-set! I would be happy to donate some cash/time if similar action is planned for the other walls!
gfdonc
5-Mar-2008
1:20:34 PM
Hmm .. not sure about the slogan this band of renegades advertises with. Is it "Vive La Revolution" (french) or "Viva La Revolucion" (spanish)? Or some bastardised franco/spaniard mix?

Don't really mind either way .. then again what I really wanted to post was .. nice work fellas, but could you update the route/grade list on one of the side walls?
vivalarevolution
5-Mar-2008
1:45:32 PM
On 5/03/2008 gfdonc wrote:
>Hmm .. not sure about the slogan this band of renegades advertises with.
> Is it "Vive La Revolution" (french) or "Viva La Revolucion" (spanish)?
> Or some bastardised franco/spaniard mix?
>
>Don't really mind either way .. then again what I really wanted to post
>was .. nice work fellas, but could you update the route/grade list on one
>of the side walls?


Sheesh, talk about pedantic... :)

Thanks for the kind words Steve. The Route / Grade list is being updated as we speak. In the meantime, here are some rough estimates for you.

Traverses:

Cream - 20
Orange - 21 ?
Purple - 23
Stone/Grey - 25
Red - 27
Blue - 28
Black - 28/29

Up Problems: Left to Right

Bright Pink - Easy V0
Dark Pink - Very Easy EASY
Brown - Medium V1
Green - Medium V3
Pink - Medium V4
Light Green - Medium V3
Yellow (Uncarved) - Hard V5
Swirls - Easy V0
Dark Purple - Medium V4
Dark Green - Medium V5
Yellow (Uncarved) - Medium V4
Fluro Yellow - Hard V7
Grey - Very hard V9 ?

Cheers,

Team Action Direct

"Viva La Revolution" or "Vive La Revolution" or "Viva La Revolucion"

nmonteith
5-Mar-2008
1:55:33 PM
i wish to complain - the black holds that i donated have been used on something i have no hope of getting up/across!
vivalarevolution
5-Mar-2008
2:16:56 PM
On 5/03/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>i wish to complain - the black holds that i donated have been used on something
>i have no hope of getting up/across!

Suck it up princess and do more training..... ;)

Otherwise next time, donate more jugs. We cant set a jugfest for you on the 45 if all you give us are crimpers now can we?????
kp
5-Mar-2008
7:30:17 PM
I must say that i am mightly concerned about these developments.

As a regular user of this facility, i was unaware of the disruption this "unscheduled route setting" would cause. My good friends Yuji and Francois travelled all the way from southern France to sample this great wall. It has quite a reputation on the international circuit.

Anyhow, we had just started to commence our 36 move warm up circuit on Saturday morning, when we were confrounted by 5 hooded individuals at approximately 5:30am. I introduced myself, to try and ease the tension. One balaclava adorned individual parted ways from the pack to greet me. His steely glare hidden by a rather femanine set of spectacles.

I greeted him in a most friendly manner.

"Bonjour gentlemen"

He sneered back at me.

"What are you looking at mate ?!"

Ï responded,

"We are trying to train for Beijing 2012, but your problems... they are very... shall i say, easy"

Grinding his teeth and raising his voice.

"Well, this ain't Paris mate and I sure ain't going to take cheek from a mofo such as yourself. It's time to rack off frogies, we are going to mess some s#it up".

Francois and i were in shock. We had never experienced this type of behaviour on the streets of Paris before, nor heard such crude language in a public arena. Francois was so upset at this point that he decided to cancel the circuit and leave immediately.

"Í will not put up wit zis behaviour". He then proceeded to walk to Victoria street, to eat crossoints and escargots.

Yuji on the other hand grew up in downtown Tokyo, and he made it clear that he wasn't going to have a bar of this heavy handed behaviour. He once told me that he worked in a gang as a youth. It's a legimate career for wayward youths in those parts. He's division was in the procurement and sale of driftcars to overseas clients. If there was one thing that Yuji learnt from this brief stint, was to never let your guard down. Ever.

My heart skipped a beat. Yuji had just fallen off the circuit. 33 moves out of 36. He knew that this spelled the end of the day, and possibly the impending European circuit in two weeks time. To say that he was unhappy was a massive understatement.

Yuji rose from the ground pointing at a yellow uncarved block hold.

"Yis hold, i am zure it moved".

He was right. It seemed that all the holds were now moving. The holds were being removed from inside the wall. Yugi was furious that his session had been rudely disrupted and he would no longer be in peak condition for future events. He bolted to the back of the wall. And removed his toothbrush. Or what seemed to be tootbrush, it actually doubled as a flick blade.

*Crash... bang*

He charged the offenders but was soon overpowered. His ninga like reflexes were no match for four trained thugs awaiting him, allen keys in hand. The flick knife dropped to the ground as Yuji began his retreat. Jumping into the Yarra, he began doggy paddling across the river leaving me alone at the scene.

I jumped to the flick knife, knowing that it was my only chance to get out of this hell hole alive. However, like a scene out of a lifesaver competion, i was beaten to the prize by a more athletic competitor. His decidingly small hands were quick. I knew that wrestling with him would prove fruitless, as allen key bandits were still on the loose. I quickly rolled onto my feet. Months of parkour training in London had made me as nimble as a quail and ready for such a situation.

I dashed from the scene. Before i could escape i felt a distinct tug on my jeans.

Close my friend but no cigar, i thought. As i heard him crash into the concrete path.

As i looked back on the scene i saw the common thug laughing in delight. He had captured our only guide to the area. Like confetti at a wedding, the PDF was ripped up and thown into the Yarra, as the thugs screamed in unison.

"Viva la revolution!!"

chalkischeap
5-Mar-2008
7:40:58 PM
Genius kp.

Someone get this man a book deal.

Nimble as a quail !!!!!!!!!!!!!

adski
5-Mar-2008
9:00:29 PM
The Don likes his fruit like his routes - f-f-fresh!!
Nice work guys

alrob
5-Mar-2008
9:23:50 PM
oh kp.......feminine spectacles......small hands......I'm sure Princess Fairy Fingers would be more then happy to show you how those small hands can tickle the fancy of even the hardest Oxford Street loiterer, such as yourself, with the turn of a T-Bar

belayslave
5-Mar-2008
10:20:52 PM
Your story is absolute gold KP! love the cross thread (parkour) integration. needed a laugh like this
tonight too!

phil_nev
6-Mar-2008
9:16:13 AM
GOLD!!!!!

nmonteith
6-Mar-2008
10:53:07 AM
It's funny because its true (there has been some frenchies sniffing around down there recently)

The new routes are great - and were certainly being well used last night. Much better easier routes than previously i thought.

Richard
6-Mar-2008
1:29:00 PM
On 4/03/2008 vivalarevolution wrote:

>Please support the revolution!
>Please post as much feedback as possible, including any suggestions for
>improvments on chockstone.

Well done guys (girls?).. Hope an attack on the other walls can occur...

IMHO, one way to address the problem of slippery feet holds maybe through cunning route setting that doesn't make the feet holds the crux, but utiles jugs for the feet and relies on balance / technical moves for the degree of difficulty? (maybe easier to do this on the vertical wal?)

One for the router setters to contemplate, perhaps..(assuming any new holds are available)?

Cheers

muki
7-Mar-2008
8:08:25 PM
On 5/03/2008 vivalarevolution wrote:

>Suck it up princess and do more training..... ;)

That quote sounds familiar?
PS I think you should call yourselves the wall fairies, and even tho I have'nt climbed that place since it
was just rocks glued on.... I think that you did a good thing, something that the majority wanted, and now
have, by short cutting all the ego's and red tape of bureaucracy.
more power to you! keep up the good work!

Chuck Norris
7-Mar-2008
8:33:22 PM
On 6/03/2008 Richard wrote:
>
>IMHO, one way to address the problem of slippery feet holds maybe through
>cunning route setting that doesn't make the feet holds the crux, but utiles
>jugs for the feet and relies on balance / technical moves for the degree
>of difficulty? (maybe easier to do this on the vertical wal?)
>

That is way too complex. Two solutions -

1. use edges/spikes for footers. No difference if they are polished.
2.Take the attitude of - who gives a shit if the footers get polished, suck your fat gut in harder. (my gut
is fatter than most so I'm having a go at myself as much as others)

ademmert
11-Mar-2008
11:59:24 AM
vivalarevolution vivalarevolution vivalarevolution

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There are 129 messages in this topic.

 

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