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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
mouseys magical land of nonsense

mousey
14-Aug-2007
6:11:51 PM
haha yeh its pretty wierd peeing while lying down in a bag, surprisingly challenging to get the flow on!

>Hey mousey &/or Macciza; ... Care to share any technique tips re how to be efficient in such conditions for jugging probs, or general other wall surviving, dealing with 'hot aches', camera lense fogging, etc?

haha i would love to know about the juggers on iced lines myself- i use a petzl hand ascender & croll (chesty) formost stuff, but i pull out another petzl handy for real slabby stuff.
switch between 1 or 2 ets depending on what i feel like at the time really! and i used the metolius easy-aiders on ozy, which i borrowed from dave & will DEFINATELY be getting a pair myself- awesome if you're just jugging but not aiding... too fiddly for aiding imo.
for normal ets, julian's wisdom = a piece of elastic webbing sewn to the bottom of your jugging step, so for jugging you flip the step upsidedown & use the elastic to lock ya foot in. genius!

i didnt have a real good look at maccas gear (most of it scares me) but from memory he was using a couple kong hand ascenders & a petzl chesty (one of the bigger black, flecked ones- not sure what theyre called?)
general wall surviving tips: dont do walls with a fractured back. it really really f---en hurts trying to haul the pigs. really. a lot. pain. seriously.
also, dont leave your headtorches& all 3 descenders on the pig when you jug up to haul & sunset. :)

in terms of cameras fogging up, ive had to deal with this for a while (having shot snowboarding etc) and found the only way to stop fogging is to keep your lenses & cam cold.... if you keep taking it in/out of a jacket or bag they will fog for sure. theres a whole acclimatisation process with plastic bags and cloths but its easy enough to google.

dealing with hot aches- fours letter words work well. i didnt get them much at all on the wall but ive had em pretty bad snowbordin/icechippin/bouldering in the snow/liftying and the best way to deal that ive found is ummm.... stick yer hands in yer pants & suck it up! actually those chemical handwarmers are good to stop you getting so cold in the first place. would be interested to hear anyones methods for dealin?

Macciza
14-Aug-2007
8:01:53 PM
Oh come on Josh - just don't think about it when you look at my gear. anyway - For iced-up lines the
kong ascenders rock - umm, rope?, because they have larger holes for getting the crap out. A biner in
the top eye of the ascender also helps clear stuff. Basically the petzl's suck. I still had to whack mine
against the rock occasionally to clear them. I went with two jugs on the real icy shit to avoid an icy
chest - but went with single jjug, two step and chest for the free hanging stuff up to the roofs above
grassy. Open up your jacket ventilation and adjust speed so you don't overheat.

If you look at the photo closely you will notice the handle - it is white 'glow in the dark - plastic - cool.
A gibbs style device might be a bit 'slidey' on icey, muddy ropes i think. The summit shot setup is just
jug and grigri as I was shooting the last pitch and penduluming into the crack and stuff. The rope is a
bit dodgy, and was tied off the night before in mild blizzard conditions whilst hauling with Dave


mousey
14-Aug-2007
9:03:23 PM
sounds like ill have to check out some other ascenders!!

way off topic- for those who havent yet seen this footage of sydney skater jake brown crashing hard during a monster ramp comp.... watch it now!!
the dude is a f---en warrior!
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=15177048
TLockwood
14-Aug-2007
9:24:31 PM
damn they build em tough down under! yeeouch, loved the slo mo showin his shoes flyin and whip lashin his neck.. makes u wanna go try some crazy stuff

mousey
15-Aug-2007
12:42:01 AM
yo Rod! the steep crack in the boulder just near the top of ozy (near the signs), know the oneimean? has it been done?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Aug-2007
12:14:41 PM
I think you may be talking about Young Galaxians Boulder (or a name similar; don't have access to a guidebook at the mo). Mikl led a couple of routes on it hence the boulder name from the route name.
If it is the one we are both talking about it has a hardish start ( crux at about the second or third move), going up to an easier arete and height verging on highball (imo).

There would be other Vhard probs in the vicinity though...

~ ~ ~
Thanks for the feedback cobbers. It is always interesting to hear of others experiences.

~ ~ ~
Philbox wrote;
>What I wanna know is why can't I get a urine stream going whilst lying down
You need more practise mate!
I think it is related to the childhood learning experience of resisting as much as possible peeing in the bed#. I am told that old age incontinence will have you going no probs!!

More the prob I find is easing out the almost full container without spilling anything ...
Good tip: Use one of your empty water containers* instead of a smaller dedicated day-use container, as the capacity is ample for more than one go during the night.

(* I use juice bottles instead of empty softdrink bottles, with minimum of 1 litre capacity. They also have a neck width of sufficient size, and handy 'clip-off' handles).

(# The warm fluid filling the bottle between your legs is still a spinout mentally if your only half awake at the time ... heh, heh, eheh?).
;-)

mousey
15-Aug-2007
6:39:33 PM
yeh sounds like the one... 2-3 bouldery moves off the ground moving a little right, then into a pretty easy looking flared crack to the top, decently highball- compared to sydney bouldering anyway.


(i used a 2L juice bottle... even that was a snug fit so not sure of the physical possibility of using a soft drink container??? )

mousey
15-Aug-2007
7:09:04 PM
shit shit shit... aussie BASE death in norway...anyone know who it was? as selfish as it is, i am muchly hoping its not someone i know :(

Sabu
15-Aug-2007
11:13:12 PM
On 15/08/2007 mousey wrote:
>(i used a 2L juice bottle... even that was a snug fit so not sure of the
>physical possibility of using a soft drink container??? )
thats weather dependant mousy.

also i'd have to say, one would hope not to have a thought of the sexual variety resulting in the fit becoming tighter, might result in a difficult removal process....!
Will P
15-Aug-2007
11:42:44 PM
Personally, I go for the 1.5L wide-mouth nalgene - you can go twice if required! Phil, practice at home, but get permission from whoever may be sharing your bed. I once had a girlfriend who simply didn't understand that I was just maximising my rest and recovery time by not having to walk to the bathroom at 2am. Or that was my story and I'm sticking with it. But I found the biggest danger comes in a tent / ledge / bivi when you also have a nalgene as a drinking bottle. Multiple close calls, but only one unfortunate incident.

Macciza
16-Aug-2007
2:01:24 AM
I trialled a 'made for pissing in' plastic 'looks like the hospital type' thingy with a lid.
Can't mistake it for anything other than what it is. Worked like it was made for the job.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Aug-2007
10:48:25 AM
mousey wrote;
>yeh sounds like the one

Yeah the flared crack is just right of the arete.
I have seen roped parties flailing on the start of it!
Have not done it myself, but have tried the 1st moves unroped with a spotter, after testing copperheading technique (with different compound swages on home made items), on a scrappy boulder further back of it.

mousey wrote;
>(i used a 2L juice bottle... even that was a snug fit so not sure of the physical possibility of using a soft drink container??? )

Aahh I need to clarify my post.
What I meant was that for my drink bottles I use the juice ones (rather than softdrink ones), that way once empty they can double as pee containers.
I agree about the physical (im)possibilities with the latter, even with cold shrivel effect (sabu)! :)

Another tip (that I learnt from Chockstone post by someone else), is that empty water containers can be reused as 'poo tubes'. Slice them horizontally 2/3 around perimeter at top of widest part, leaving one side connected as a hinge/flap. Do the job (possibly in a paper bag beforehand), place in bottle and use gaffer tape to seal. Clip off under haulbag. I have tried this and it works, so have since relegated my PVC screwtop affair to the museum.
Note: The process assumes the waller is carrying a knife and tape.
dalai
16-Aug-2007
10:55:59 AM
On 15/08/2007 mousey wrote:
> aussie BASE death in norway...anyone know who it was?
>as selfish as it is, i am muchly hoping its not someone i know :(

Queenslander Stephen Richard Anderton

http://www.theage.com.au/news/national/were-not-that-crazy/2007/08/15/1186857596657.html

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Aug-2007
11:59:56 AM
Sad news.

Was also shocked to hear of the connection to Project Dare 'youth in need' ...





~ ~ ~





Will P (pun on the topic; heh, heh, ?) wrote;
>Multiple close calls, but only one unfortunate incident.
Sounds like you need a 'glow in the dark' type lid like Maccizas ascender handle!
:)

mousey
16-Aug-2007
1:57:57 PM
know who he was but didnt know him personally.... my condolences to his family & friends.

rod- thats definately it... do you know what it goes at?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Aug-2007
3:22:35 PM
Not offhand. Will look it up and get back to you. It is a route put up by mikl so if he graded it 18 then its prolly 21/22 !
Heh, heh, heh; ... would've been harder for you with the crack full of snow though?
Cam McKenzie
16-Aug-2007
3:46:31 PM
Route's called Young Galaxians, grade 22. Haven't done it, looks good though.

mousey
16-Aug-2007
3:59:44 PM
mmm looked about 21/22... i actually didnt get on it rod, wanted to but wasnt in good shape phsyically (agony is another word for it) and didnt really get time

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Aug-2007
4:31:38 PM
On 16/08/2007 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Route's called Young Galaxians, grade 22. Haven't done it, looks good though.
... Grade sounds about right. Mikl mustn't have been feeling mischievous that day!

mousey wrote
>agony is another word for it
You young fellows will insist on slam-dunking yourselves while skateboard/snowboarding etc. & I reckon (like you?), Jake probably paid a higher price for the you-tube effort (indicated higher on this page), than the footage indicates.
Can't imagine hauling a wombat with a stuffed back, even if numbed with cold.
... While I was taking my turn in the lineup I have heard a fellow paddling into a monster wave chanting a mantra "Strong back, weak mind dispensable". He did alright on that wave, but I don't know how his body fared after years of similar abuse; ... I think I have come to like a better saying; 'Stupid hurts*'; ... often seen in biking magazines re wearing appropriate safety gear.
(* says he who thinks climbing M9 is an OK objective!).

mousey
16-Aug-2007
5:22:10 PM
yeh, for years i have been abusing my body with sports like skating & snowboarding & taken a LOT of slams (incl ones much bigger than jakes, but on snow... last year i flew in the vicinity of 100 feet off a 55 or 60ft tabletop jump, with much the same effect ie. missing the transition completely and landing on the flat. difference of course being that i was on snow... though i also landed on my feet [coincidentally having done the same trick that jake did over the gap in that clip, even the same grab! only difference is that mine was corked ie. off axis].
though it took a few terrifying minutes of stillness, i was able [painfully & slowly] to ride away from that but i am nowhere near recovering from the damage of the last couple seasons and i imagine that it will take years to fully heal)

its something i am actually really struggling with at the moment- i love pushing myself & i love the feeling of riding & definately love the feeling of spinning 70 feet through the air upside down and touching down for a perfect landing. but ive got this body for the rest of my life, so im questioning more and more (as i become increasingly frustrated with my inability to climb well in the last couple of years) whether it is really worth it. can i have as much fun being mellow? what will i regret more in years to come; not having explored my potential, or not having looked after my body?

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