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Common Courtesy at Indoor Gyms


PreferKnitting

4-May-2006
11:42:32 AM

People always talk about the etiquette at climbing gyms and being astounded by funny/ stupid incidents or getting angry at rope hogs or gumbies dogging routes.

Well what annoyed me the other day was some elitist prick and his mate sniggering at some dude trying a boulder problem. This example and these attitudes make me sick! It's even worse than any gumby hogging a rope for the duration of a night.

Ahhh... I'm better now ....


sticky

4-May-2006
11:46:33 AM

On 4/05/2006 tnd wrote:
>On 4/05/2006 Dalai wrote:

>
I reckon the Fig 8 belongs in a museum
>these days (or on Slovakian crags...).

Bit off topic here, but what the hell -

The one use for a fig-8 I've heard is from a certified member of the chin-tugging brigade who informs me that when your rope is iced up beyond belief and won't fit through your belay device, a fig-8 does the job just nicely. Turns a potential epic into a happy day of mountaineering.

Having never experienced iced-up ropes, I was wondering what others thoughts are. Any alternatives? Not a fan of an 8, wouldn't want to take it into the mountains or anywhere else if I could avoid it.

Kyle


billk

4-May-2006
11:54:05 AM

On 4/05/2006 PreferKnitting wrote:
>Well what annoyed me the other day was some elitist prick and his mate
>sniggering at some dude trying a boulder problem. This example and these
>attitudes make me sick! It's even worse than any gumby hogging a rope for
>the duration of a night.
>

That's very inconsiderate of you PK. Those two gym heroes need to have people to feel superior to and have to be free to express it on a daily basis. Clearly, their right to feel superior trumps the other guy's right to fall off a boulder problem.

How come you didn't learn that in high school PE classes or sports?


tnd

4-May-2006
12:05:06 PM

On 4/05/2006 sticky wrote:
>The one use for a fig-8 I've heard is from a certified member of the chin-tugging
>brigade who informs me that when your rope is iced up beyond belief and
>won't fit through your belay device, a fig-8 does the job just nicely.
>Turns a potential epic into a happy day of mountaineering.

True. When I made the "museum" comment I was thinking of rock climbing. I can see where the F8 can be useful for mountaineering. (Note: beard required to operate device).


PreferKnitting

4-May-2006
12:05:41 PM

On 4/05/2006 billk wrote:
>That's very inconsiderate of you PK. Those two gym heroes need to have
>people to feel superior to and have to be free to express it on a daily
>basis. Clearly, their right to feel superior trumps the other guy's right
>to fall off a boulder problem.
>
>How come you didn't learn that in high school PE classes or sports?

What was I thinking! I must be a slow learner. OR, maybe these guys were laughed at when they first began and are just mimicking what their 'up bringing'. They're just misunderstood?


billk

4-May-2006
12:13:47 PM

On 4/05/2006 PreferKnitting wrote:
>On 4/05/2006 billk wrote:
>What was I thinking! I must be a slow learner. OR, maybe these guys were
>laughed at when they first began and are just mimicking what their 'up
>bringing'. They're just misunderstood?

It's OK PK.

No I'm sure they've never been laughed at, either in the climbing gym or anywhere else. I can just tell from your original post how hot they are at everything they do - and I'll bet just plain hot too. Am I right or what?

With a strong enough urge to be part of the in-crowd and a few lessons in how to be up yourself, you could probably be just like them. Start now!


simonu

4-May-2006
12:54:57 PM

If I'm trying something that normally only "gym heroes" attempt, I'll try and make sure that there aren't any "real" climbers around to snigger at me thrashing my way up.


Phil Box

4-May-2006
1:08:02 PM

Snigger snigger smirk.


simonu

4-May-2006
1:14:03 PM

Aahhh, so its you


PreferKnitting

4-May-2006
1:46:24 PM

On 4/05/2006 simonu wrote:
>If I'm trying something that normally only "gym heroes" attempt, I'll try
>and make sure that there aren't any "real" climbers around to snigger at
>me thrashing my way up.

Oh, ok, didn't realise that was how it should work. What these guys were attempting wasn't anything mind blowing, it was just what was at THEIR limit. What should it matter what problem you're trying anywhay?

ANyone who laughs at another person's endeavours is a w@#ker. everyone knows that. Shesh, did'nt you all learn that after finishing high school?


simonu

4-May-2006
1:58:19 PM

Yeah, its an attitude that sucks. We all start somewhere and we were all (some of us still are!) crap sometime.


billk

4-May-2006
2:13:33 PM

On 4/05/2006 PreferKnitting wrote:
What these guys were
>attempting wasn't anything mind blowing, it was just what was at THEIR
>limit.

Ever noticed how often gym heroes, dojo heroes etc aren't the ones actually doing the mind blowing things? Most of the gun climbers I've met don't have the gym hero swagger. That said, most of the really gun judoka who used to inflict pain on me were swaggering dickheads. Maybe we have less wankers in climbing than other pastimes.

Nonetheless, if we're all at Cliffhanger or Hardrock at the same time, could you point those guys out to me and I'll tell 'em to their faces that they're pathetic wankers.

Stuey

4-May-2006
2:16:44 PM

Its pretty mean spirited to laugh at someone else when they are giving it their best. Besides no-one gives a sh*t how hard you pull in the gym anway. Its only plastic.

On a point of courtesy tho, one thing that pisses me off the idiots out there who stand on the mats underneath you or start up a problem that crosses over one that you are already on.


simonu

4-May-2006
2:18:47 PM

>Ever noticed how often gym heroes, dojo heroes etc aren't the ones actually
>doing the mind blowing things? Most of the gun climbers I've met don't
>have the gym hero swagger. That said, most of the really gun judoka who
>used to inflict pain on me were swaggering dickheads.

I would also claim that these people don't actually climb outdoors that much. When I started, I started outdoors and the ethos was that you learnt, and were taught and encouraged, by the better climbers around you. I'm sure its not that simple and that it absolutely does not excuse wankerish behaviour, its just a gut felling that I have.

James

4-May-2006
3:10:41 PM

Malcolm has a way of locking off a figure 8 whilst rapping (ie when cleaning gear etc), it not really a auto-
locking belay method, not in the same sense as a gri-gri 'auto-locks' anyway.

otherwise, I reckon the best belay device is the one the belayer can use without dropping people...


mhatfield

4-May-2006
3:29:38 PM

So, the point you're all trying to make is that people who climb in gyms are idiots basically. I've read a fair amount in this thread telling me that the real climbing is outdoors. Sure, I agree to a point ... and if I could, I'd climb outdoors every weekend, but then some of us have commitments whether it be family or work or plain limited by funds.

So for me, the climbing is and has always been mainly indoors (I've been lucky enough to score one weekend to the Araps and hopefully another soon), why? because it's convenient and mind cleansing and a heap better than going to a fitness centre and stare at biceps in a mirror!

There is absolutely nothing like climbing outdoors, it's an experience and a mindset that cannot easily be explained to another non-climber. But come on, gimme a break! Cut the elitist BS, there is a genuine reason for some people to climb indoors, and sure there is always some percentage that are w@nkers (don't climb Friday nights for a start!), but even in my one weekend at the Araps, I encountered a few there too.

Morale of the story ... you can't avoid w@nkers, they're everywhere. How you choose to handle them is your perogative. If you see someone in need of some advice, speak out before someone gets injured ... or DEAD!

Bob Saki

4-May-2006
3:48:17 PM

On 4/05/2006 mhatfield wrote:
but even in
>my one weekend at the Araps, I encountered a few there too.
>

I'm hearing you....................................they are just a bit more spaced out but the ratio is the same.


PreferKnitting

4-May-2006
3:49:34 PM

On 4/05/2006 mhatfield wrote:
>So, the point you're all trying to make is that people who climb in gyms
>are idiots basically. I've read a fair amount in this thread telling me
>that the real climbing is outdoors.

I was just about to make a comment about this... I agree. THe general term is a 'climbing w@#ker' and is not isolated to gyms.

My previous example and encounter occured in a gym but the person that i witnessed being an idoit does not isolate his behaviour to the gym alone (ie this person climbs outdorrs as well).

I think this topic finds many examples becaues people of all walks of life and climbing ethics/ ethos are crammed into one spot so you get to witness all that goes on. And you then can't avoid bumping into those with big egos and bad manners.

I was fortunate to start climbing outdoors so my perspective, understanding and ideas of climbing come from climbing in beautiful surrounds without another sole in sight, so when I first entered a gym environment it was a shock to see what other peoples attitudes and what drives them toclimb. I've realised everyone's different and there are egos linked to this sport.


billk

4-May-2006
3:55:46 PM

On 4/05/2006 mhatfield wrote:
Cut the elitist BS, there is a genuine reason
>for some people to climb indoors, and sure there is always some percentage
>that are w@nkers (don't climb Friday nights for a start!), but even in
>my one weekend at the Araps, I encountered a few there too.
>
>Morale of the story ... you can't avoid w@nkers, they're everywhere.
>How you choose to handle them is your perogative. If you see someone in
>need of some advice, speak out before someone gets injured ... or DEAD!

Good call mh.

dave

4-May-2006
8:39:33 PM

I find it odd that there has been so much complaint about people spending huge amounts of time dogging a climb. I climb at a gym usually 2-3 times a week and have never been frustrated by someone 'hogging' a route- theres always plenty more ropes to try...just do another climb and come back to it later. I know i dont regularly dog routes for ages but it has to be done if u want to improve. On the occasions when i'm trying a harder route its natural to spend while working out the moves- just as u might do on a hard route outdoors. Just lighten up a bit! Climbings for fun isnt it...

There are 85 messages in this topic.