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whos the top ozy climber

BoaredOfTheRings

19-Oct-2004
12:27:30 PM

On 19/10/2004 Breezy wrote:

>No its not, pre placed cams / nuts can pull a lot easier than a glued
>in ring bolt hence the fact that pre placed gear is not as safe as ring
>bolts

Bollocks!!!!
Did the person putting in the bolt clean the hole correctly, was the glue mixed right and still in its window of use.

Give me a stonker 5 rock anyday !!!


rodw

19-Oct-2004
12:27:54 PM

Some would call it bold:) (buts that another arguement)


shiltz

20-Oct-2004
8:30:59 AM

I'd have to agree. I trust a solid gear placement above somebody elses bolt any day. Bolts provide a false sense of security. They aren't installed by professionals and are not tested.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

20-Oct-2004
8:50:48 AM

On 20/10/2004 shiltz wrote:
>Bolts provide a false sense of security. They aren't installed
>by professionals and are not tested.
... other than by bold sport climbers!


HM33

20-Oct-2004
9:01:45 AM

how would you quantifiably test the strength of a bolt without comprimising its strength?


shiltz

20-Oct-2004
9:19:42 AM

A bolt should be able to handle multiple loads equivalent to a 100kg climber falling from the level of the next bolt up (plus a bit). You should be able to apply this load without compromising its strength.
Practically though, I don't expect bolts to be tested in any way. Therefore I get just as worried when I'm run out above a bolt as I would be above a solid gear placement. I would prefer to be run out above a really bomber gear placement any day.


Syd Huxley

20-Oct-2004
10:16:46 AM

when you place a bolt properly it can hold so much more than 100kg,ive not done any tests as
such but a Ubolt put in with good glue (clag for eg.) could hold cars and tow planets.
theres nothing to worry about wih good bolts as long as you know how to shuv em in or the person
that stuck them in knose what he/she is doing.
dyna bolts in soft rock are still bomb proof,you just need to be careful of experiment bolts like the
1 on snake flakes anchor,i cant belive its still in there.


shiltz

20-Oct-2004
11:09:58 AM

A well placed bolt is indeed capable of holding a car. Its the ones on "the first route I ever bolted" that worry me. Or the ones done with the glue that was used on another route a month back but "should still be ok". Not to mention bash in carrots, short dyna bolts, etc.


rodw

20-Oct-2004
12:11:18 PM

I personally bolt my routes so that if any fail (hasnt happend yet and hopefully wont) the next one is in a position to stop any potential ground fall, which is only a problem for the first few bolts anyway (discounting the first which you cant protect anyway).

Its highly unlikely bolts will ever zipper like some "bomber" trad pieces are capable of.


mousey

20-Oct-2004
12:18:03 PM

>I would prefer to be run out above a really bomber gear placement any day.
i certainly envy you!


Richard

20-Oct-2004
1:20:57 PM

On 20/10/2004 steve wrote:
>how would you quantifiably test the strength of a bolt without comprimising
>its strength?

the same way the irish test matches..

(manufacture 100 bolts, test 99 of then, and you can then calculate the probability that the last one is in the same statistical distribution as given by the other 99.. Well, that the theory, the actual numbers are a bit different in practice.)

Cheers...


LittleJames

20-Oct-2004
2:51:44 PM

I thought something more along the lines of how the Irish detect mines in a minefield.

You put your foot out in front, stick a finger in each ear, and then you just start tapping...

Well, metaphorically anyways


mousey

20-Oct-2004
3:39:13 PM

that would be where irish dancing came from?


shiltz

20-Oct-2004
4:01:02 PM

After a few months at Araps I think you'll agree with me...
Maybe it I did more climbing in the Blueys I'd get to like bolts more.


mousey

20-Oct-2004
5:26:14 PM

haha i guess it depends where in the blueys but in general, yeh id say so
well only a few weeks left until i finally make the pilgrimage to the pines, so i guess ill find out!!

mikl law

21-Oct-2004
12:05:43 AM

Totally off topic now..
It's really hard to trust gear if you come from the mountains, as you don't imagine how strong most other rock is.

Back on topic...
Hardest climbers in Oz? Well, for someone who only does one day every 6 weeks, Mark Wilson is impressive. He "only leads 24", but it doesn't seem to matter how bad the gear or the rock is.


mousey

21-Oct-2004
11:20:52 AM

i thought he was crankin out 29's & 30's a few years back?


HM33

21-Oct-2004
11:43:11 AM

mark isn't a number ticker. he puts up very good quality long trad routes in the blue mountains as well as short sport routes around the place. i don't think he was climbing 29's or 30's before.


mousey

21-Oct-2004
11:44:25 AM

actually i might be thinking of withers

climberman

21-Oct-2004
11:57:04 AM

On 21/10/2004 mikl law wrote:

>Back on topic...
>Hardest climbers in Oz? Well, for someone who only does one day every
>6 weeks, Mark Wilson is impressive. He "only leads 24", but it doesn't
>seem to matter how bad the gear or the rock is.

Often at or close to that grade, onsight, and new routes, far from the madding crowd as well, I think.

There are 83 messages in this topic.