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whos the top ozy climber

SteveH

12-Oct-2004
2:39:34 PM

Part 2

Not on the list and mentioned repeatedly, yes Garth Miller. The best, and also a pioneer in hard Australian sport climbing and onsighting. Yes ‘lots’ of strong people send his routes now and claim to be as good, but he put them up years ago when they were visionary and Zac and Rob were the only other people close to trying anything that hard and establishing new hard sport routes. He didn’t know 5 different peoples beta on how to do the moves, or if they were possible. Credit when credit is due. Off the couch and he is still up there. Congratulations on the rumoured new venture.

In the women, as has been stated, Sam Berry for competition climbing, Monique for routes (congrats for Sunday) and for bouldering, I’d nominate Ange, and I’ll wait for the flame and put a vote in for Ali, and Corrine.

Tim, is Ross still taking photos? He’s good at that.

Anthony, you’re right, who cares? But it can make for interesting conversation, debate and thoughts.

Nick your right, you can crank hard on low numbers! Josh pushes himself, and is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid parents, that’s cranking.

Gavin, I assume that was an attempt at humour or a lame troll? Good to see you talk yourself up on 8a. I got great photo’s of Chris on a ‘weak’ day, campusing a 10 move V5, as his warm-up, put his shoes on, flashed a V8, checked out some holds on a V11, had a flash attempt, did all the moves. 2nd attempt in two sections, 3rd shot = send, no work. I’ll try and find the photo. You got it right naming Monique though.

Best trad... would HB and Pat have to arm wrestle for it? Actually, I’m not very knowledgeable on trad.

Dave, she got pretty close (last/2nd last hold at the end of the tsunami crux) a couple of days before too. Pretty cool huh.

Will, I don’t think Steve or HB have any competition in their own style of ascents.

Rod, it’s not about magic in this thread, it’s about numbers! I pledged to do an aid route this year, and am running out of time! I take it you wouldn’t recommend Ozzie first up?

But that’s just my 2 cents worth in an essay written, whilst sitting in the gym, ‘doing paper-work’ and glad that school holidays are over.

Duncan

12-Oct-2004
2:55:16 PM

>is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid parents, that’s cranking.

You crank pretty hard yourself then steve...

You pledged to do an aid route?

dalai

12-Oct-2004
3:44:08 PM

On 12/10/2004 SteveH wrote:
>Gavin, I assume that was an attempt at humour or a lame troll? Good to
>see you talk yourself up on 8a.

Interesting to see the grades posted out by one.

24 is only 7a
25 is 7a+ max
26 spreads between 7b/b+


IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Oct-2004
4:16:56 PM

On 12/10/2004 SteveH wrote:
>Nick your right, you can crank hard on low numbers! Josh pushes himself,
>and is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid parents,
>that’s cranking.

I agree, so where does this fit with
>it’s about numbers!

Steve, I appreciate the time and effort you have put into giving 'context' to your post, but I think I'm more with mightymouse on this one. It doesnt really matter though; ... unless you are into numbers?
:)

>Rod, it’s not about magic in this thread, it’s about numbers! I pledged
>to do an aid route this year, and am running out of time! I take it you
>wouldn’t recommend Ozzie first up?
Anyone who gets up Ozy (at any time and in any style) will appreciate that the experience was far more (yep, far more), than simply a 'numbers game'; as IMO it is a holy-grail worth achieving.
If someone 'flashes it', (especially as a 1st up aid ascent*) then more kudos to them, ... as long as they do it cleanly to preserve the experience for others.

*This is definitely achievable. Perhaps more so by 1st timers? ... because they don't know what they don't know, so to speak; ie no inhibitions holding them back about what is realistic / not-achievable for them !

SteveH

12-Oct-2004
4:38:43 PM

On 12/10/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>On 12/10/2004 SteveH wrote:
>>Nick your right, you can crank hard on low numbers! Josh pushes himself,
>>and is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid
>parents,
>>that’s cranking.
>
>I agree, so where does this fit with
>>it’s about numbers!

>Steve, I appreciate the time and effort you have put into giving 'context'
>to your post, but I think I'm more with mightymouse on this one. It doesnt
>really matter though; ... unless you are into numbers?
>:)
>
Its not about whether I am into numbers or not. The thread has asked about the 'best sport climber in Australia', I was trying to say this should and is, judged by numbers and consitency. I also agree with most of what MM said, and was merely offering encouragement to all of us enjoying our personal challenges and climbing as a whole.

Cheers

SteveH

12-Oct-2004
4:40:21 PM

On 12/10/2004 Duncan wrote:
>>is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid parents,
>that’s cranking.
>
>You crank pretty hard yourself then steve...
>
>You pledged to do an aid route?

Hehehehe, I've been doing this way to long Duncan!

Yep, an aid route for me!!!


mousey

12-Oct-2004
4:58:47 PM

>Nick your right, you can crank hard on low numbers! Josh pushes himself,
>and is motivated even after putting up with screaming kids and stupid parents,
>that’s cranking.
nownow lets keep the family outof it! but geee, shucks guys...
>*This is definitely achievable. Perhaps more so by 1st timers? ... because they don't >know what they don't know, so to speak; ie no inhibitions holding them back about >what is realistic / not-achievable for them !

i can feel a song comin on... "hooooteeelllll caliiiiforniaaaa"

steve, i have a confession to make...i too have dreamedof big walls and pulling on gear without feeling guilty! we may not see eye to eye on how to define 'best' (as opposed to 'hardest'), but if ya keen for a belay slave, you know where i live... :P


rodw

12-Oct-2004
4:58:57 PM

I find the most worrying with this thread that people are agreeing with something MM said...whats this world coming too?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Oct-2004
5:01:45 PM

On 12/10/2004 SteveH wrote:
>(snip) The thread has asked about
>the 'best sport climber in Australia', I was trying to say this should
>and is, judged by numbers and consitency.
Given that gooroo mixed it up initially by including bouldering then I figured it was valid to query the assumption of it being only a numbers game.

> I also agree with most of what
>MM said, and was merely offering encouragement to all of us enjoying our
>personal challenges and climbing as a whole.
Spot on.
I would advocate that (extreme I know) free-soloing death routes etc counts for something towards 'topness' ??
(I don't disagree majoratively with your well thought out response; just embellishing it with another perspective again).
:)


mousey

12-Oct-2004
5:02:33 PM

haha love ya rod


tmarsh

12-Oct-2004
5:37:52 PM

On 12/10/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:

>I would advocate that (extreme I know) free-soloing death routes etc counts
>for something towards 'topness' ??

Er, if the thing that makes a death route dangerous is a lack of gear, then how
does soloing it make it any more impressive? Any free solo is a *potential*
death route.

tim

Onsight

12-Oct-2004
7:42:14 PM

On 12/10/2004 dalai wrote:
>On 12/10/2004 SteveH wrote:
>>Gavin, I assume that was an attempt at humour or a lame troll? Good to
>>see you talk yourself up on 8a.
>
>Interesting to see the grades posted out by one.
>
>24 is only 7a
>25 is 7a+ max
>26 spreads between 7b/b+

Yeah, your right there Martin. It’s probably explained because the conversion table they supply on 8a.nu is a bit skew-whiff in the mid-20's.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Oct-2004
1:48:36 PM

On 12/10/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>Er, if the thing that makes a death route dangerous is a lack of gear,
>then how does soloing it make it any more impressive?
Fair enough, but (IMO) a free soloist mentally taking on a challenge where they think they will only get hurt if they stuff up as opposed to dying for sure, is the difference in impressiveness.

dalai

13-Oct-2004
1:59:32 PM

A5, either soloing or leading a death route will end in just that anyway. Only difference is that a soloist has the possibility of death everytime they step off the ground. Where someone leading has the choice of climbing a well protected route or a death route...


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Oct-2004
2:30:37 PM

On 13/10/2004 dalai wrote:
>A5, either soloing or leading a death route will end in just that anyway.
>Only difference is that a soloist has the possibility of death everytime
>they step off the ground. Where someone leading has the choice of climbing
>a well protected route or a death route...
Yes, ... (well maybe replace 'will' with 'could'; ->assumes a fall).
So whats the issue?
I'm not advocating either, though the bottom of this can of worms has probably been searched for before!
Its the mental game I was focussing on re impressiveness. A sure bet death vs a maybe death, is a sillyness in total (!) when one steps back from it :)

Chester

13-Oct-2004
5:59:04 PM

In regards to Steve's comments:

"Gavin, I assume that was an attempt at humour or a lame troll? Good to see you talk yourself up on 8a. I got great photo’s of Chris on a ‘weak’ day, campusing a 10 move V5, as his warm-up, put his shoes on, flashed a V8, checked out some holds on a V11, had a flash attempt, did all the moves. 2nd attempt in two sections, 3rd shot = send, no work. I’ll try and find the photo. You got it right naming Monique though."

Please see latest Rock, my first attempt at photography is in there, a pic of the ever strong Chris Webb and in my humble opinion, has to be up there for strongest aussie climber on current form, certainly in the top 3. I was joking about him not being strong.

Onsight is right re:grades on 8a, right or wrong I used the table that was supplied on the site. Quite happy to change them, not intentionally talking it up though...

I am very surprised that no one else has worked out who Philip actually is? He is getting a few mentions on this thread, Philip is his alias... Any guesses?

SteveH

14-Oct-2004
11:19:55 AM

Cheers Gavin, sometimes I just don't know these days! Great shot though, that move looks awesome.

I can't find my original photo of Chris that I mentioned before, but go to www.eclipsfilms.com/auci and the cover shot is the photo of his sendage. I have a pretty cool sequence somewhere. (Don't bother going into the site)

Steve

Onsight

14-Oct-2004
1:12:32 PM

On 13/10/2004 Chester wrote:
>Please see latest Rock, my first attempt at photography is in there,
Looking forward to seeing more of your pics around.

>pic of the ever strong Chris Webb and in my humble opinion, has to be up
>there for strongest aussie climber on current form, certainly in the top
>3. I was joking about him not being strong.
Strong as an Ox. Certainly right up there.

>Onsight is right re:grades on 8a, right or wrong I used the table that
>was supplied on the site. Quite happy to change them, not intentionally
>talking it up though...
Sure you weren't mate. Several other Aussies seem to have fallen for the same trap. Wouldn't worry too much. Just don't go OS expecting 7a+'s to feel like some 24's we've got here.

>I am very surprised that no one else has worked out who Philip actually
>is? He is getting a few mentions on this thread, Philip is his alias...
>Any guesses?
Kinda getting bored of trying to work out who all the different trolls are... This one could be interesting to know - if you care to enlighten?

Chris Sharma!

14-Oct-2004
2:27:50 PM

Well Chris Sharma is back in da house.
top ozy climber...
with out a doubt big bad ben cossey and chris are holding the flag high.
they are legends in the making.......
what about the bold bad ass toby b.
also there are a few un know boys on the starting list like justin clark. (the best repointer this world has ever seen)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
also once upon a time there were guys called saxon jones and sam (beer belly) edwards. oh i have also seen a kim robbo from down under under he is quite strong.
sharma chris

Chester

14-Oct-2004
2:31:33 PM

Thanks for the encouragement about my photography, I'm keen to learn as much as I can, and have picked up lots of good ideas from your interview and your website.

Yeah I've never climb OS, except a little in NZ earlier this year, so I'm not sure how the whole conversion thing goes, I just used the 8a version. It's great for the grade hunters on the Ewbank system as our scores get inflated.

I couldn't possibly give away the indentity of this troll, he may yet have the guts to reveal his true identity... Hint he was born in the 80's (narrowed it down a few for you)

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