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Cleaning anchors - etiquette |
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9-Jun-2015 9:08:41 PM
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Okay your back on track well done.
Nothing wrong with shackles if a lower offs is getting worn, or you can just replace them completely..either way....sorry missing the point of why thats ridiculous solution considering 99% never wear that much anyway.
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10-Jun-2015 7:26:03 PM
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On 9/06/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>People switching between lowering and abseiling is a source of very bad
>accidents, so be super careful to make sure both parties know the same
>thing.
>
>Don't trust kiwis! They're poor as over there, hence can't afford mallions,
>hence rap off, hence will drop you at sport crags where lowering off is
>the norm.
Yep. I expect my belayers to never take me off 'presuming' that I could be rapping off. I'm lowering off unless I say otherwise! I've spent years climbing all over the world and the only place I ever saw the majority if climbers rapping was at Paynes Ford in NZ. I didn't see a single person do it on my recent 7 week Spain trip.
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11-Jun-2015 9:23:39 AM
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Yeah, we do seem to abseil by default. I prefer to abseil rather than being lowered, so it's me in control. Among the bunch of people I climb with regularly the general assumption is that we will abseil, and if we want to be lowered that will be communicated (or agreed beforehand). If I call safe I expect to be taken off belay. If I want to be lowered I don't call safe.
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11-Jun-2015 11:14:46 AM
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I've been thinking for a while, would I be lynched if I kept a few twist shackles in my chalk bag, & installed them anytime I found rings only as an anchor?
Is this something to float with the community on a case by case basis, or can I be a twist shackle vigilante?
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11-Jun-2015 11:21:41 AM
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It would get expensive and TBH in most cases not needed due to low traffic....but don't see a problem if your keen (and have the funds).
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12-Jun-2015 9:36:27 AM
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99% of anchors aren't getting enough wear to warrant twisted shackles. Its usually fairly obvious when an anchor starts starts to wear. Once it gets a notch cutting in, put a shackle on it.
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12-Jun-2015 10:05:58 AM
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Yep, and guess what? If people could be bothered to rap instead of lowering its going to take a hell of a lot longer before the anchor starts to wear, and you need to add a shackle ... Which you would not have needed to do if people had bothered to rap .....
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12-Jun-2015 10:56:35 AM
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Any anchors I have installed are intended for lowering off - no one should feel guilty using these anchors as I intended them to be used.
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12-Jun-2015 11:13:48 AM
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So I guess that basically means you don't have a problem with people toproping through those anchors either, as the wear is essentially not that different . . .
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12-Jun-2015 11:28:25 AM
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On 12/06/2015 Macciza wrote:
>So I guess that basically means you don't have a problem with people toproping
>through those anchors either, as the wear is essentially not that different
>. . .
No problem with that at all - unless the anchors are showing visible wear (ie 1/4 worn through). If that is the case I would suggest they donate some biners or mallions. I'm not overly precious about people having fun and not following 'best practice'. Providing they are using my anchors safely I am happy. Lowering off a single bolt will probably get a lot more heated response from me!
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12-Jun-2015 12:23:20 PM
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Actually that's a pretty good idea, if people simply lower from one stonking glued in ring, instead of both of them, it should help reduce wear ....
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14-Jun-2015 7:34:28 PM
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On 12/06/2015 Macciza wrote:
>Actually that's a pretty good idea, if people simply lower from one stonking
>glued in ring, instead of both of them, it should help reduce wear ....
>
C'mon Macca, if you really want the masses to reduce ring-wear, then you should be advocating they take up traditional rope techniques where caterpillar skins are sewn together to make climbing ropes, ie pre-hemp climbing rope daze... as soft caterpiller skins are the ultimate in burnishing but not wearing, modern ring fangdangle.
;-)
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15-Jun-2015 10:58:27 AM
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I rap off sometimes to reduce rope wear when the rope runs over an edge or some abrasive rock. Never sure if its better rapping of double ropes or a single strand though. An advantage of rapping off the single strand that does not go through the draws is your brake rope is free hanging and you don't have to deal with any tension or change in direction as you descend. If you do ever rap off a single strand I suggest you clearly communicate to your belayer that they should tie off both strands to their harness to avoid the possibility of rapping of a rope that is not anchored at all.
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15-Jun-2015 11:07:42 AM
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If I were rappelling on one strand to clean the route, rather than relying on my belayer as the anchor, I'd probably anchor it something like this:
(regardless of whether I was using a grigri, I just knew petzl had an image for this somewhere)
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15-Jun-2015 3:47:34 PM
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You might like to consider closing your gri gri next time Andrew
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15-Jun-2015 4:18:03 PM
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On 15/06/2015 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>You might like to consider closing your gri gri next time Andrew
I've also found clipping it to my harnesses helps too....
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15-Jun-2015 4:36:12 PM
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On 15/06/2015 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>You might like to consider closing your gri gri next time Andrew
Where's the adventure in that?
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24-Jun-2015 9:20:16 PM
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I've never climbed a route where i didn't have a second cleaning up my mess.
I'm glad i read this thread, it has been most enlightening.
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