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24-Nov-2014 11:04:22 AM
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Plenty has been written about how to do the mantle when it's at the lip of a route or there is airspace above it. But what do you do when the mantle is below a bulge/vertical wall or a slight overhand and as you stand up there's not much to grab? This move has me stumped on a couple of routes (PL/LD at Narrabeen steep side, Bluntman at the stables).
Anyone got any movement specific tips?
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24-Nov-2014 11:07:38 AM
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Just keep your weight forward and kinda ooze like a whale.
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24-Nov-2014 11:10:17 AM
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Hah love it. And what's the consensus about hips turning out vs turning the body sideways?
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24-Nov-2014 11:37:30 AM
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Sounds like everything needs to be hands free. I don't know the routes you are talking about, but just get your feet right and lean into the wall in front of you as best you can. Might not be too glamourous.
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24-Nov-2014 11:58:32 AM
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Bluntman doesn't have a mantle like you describe I don't think, hard balancy start yes, mantle has you describe -no.
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24-Nov-2014 12:25:58 PM
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That probably explains my problem then. I was able to do it moving left to the crack and then reaching back across to the right to the flake hold, but it seemed like going off route/cheating.
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/route/15244651
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24-Nov-2014 1:11:32 PM
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Yeah from memory, you pull up on flake and high step to horizontal crimp out left balance and move up to bigger holds, all the while trying not to balance off...pretty much straight up following bolt...I definitely didn't use the crack...but that doesn't mean cracks off.
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25-Nov-2014 11:07:22 AM
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I try that line every time i get down there and get defeated. (im claiming its my 6 ft 4 inch height and not my lack of skill hahah) Always enjoy it though even if it defeats me often.
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26-Nov-2014 11:43:41 AM
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The climbs to the left and right of it are good too. I particularly like the last move on Chronic to the anchor. Your local spot ain't it?
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26-Nov-2014 12:59:15 PM
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On 26/11/2014 surfziggy wrote:
>The climbs to the left and right of it are good too. I particularly like
>the last move on Chronic to the anchor. Your local spot ain't it?
Hawkshaw bolted them, mine are the other crappy fillers :) but yeah its my local. Otherland is good too
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26-Nov-2014 2:47:43 PM
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Yeah was in there a few weeks ago too. Did home made gonad guillotine and the three routes next to it too. HMGG is a corker. Shoulder barge is good too, but was a bit desperate due to the foliage/dirt. The onsight was a bit sketchy...
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