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Retrobolting at Nowra


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
9:45:13 AM

Are you for it or against it? Please only vote if you have actually climbed at Nowra in the last 10 years and plan to climb there in the future.


ajfclark

22-Jun-2012
9:51:45 AM

Could you add a "whatever" option...

If you force people to choose they'll tick yes just to spite ODH...

plugngo

22-Jun-2012
9:56:36 AM

Does anyone really NOT enjoy a run-out every now and again, if they're in the mood?


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
9:58:09 AM

On 22/06/2012 plugngo wrote:
>Does anyone really NOT enjoy a run-out every now and again, if they're
>in the mood?

I love a runout - but I don't like a runout that involves hitting the ground. And if I wanted runouts there are plenty of other crags to visit. Drive 15 minutes and you are at Point Perp.


Snappy

22-Jun-2012
10:46:41 AM

GoUp!

22-Jun-2012
10:48:09 AM

What's the 10 year caveat bit all about - how is that relevent???
In addition, did you mean just 'and' or can we assume you actually meant 'and/or' ???

The devil often lurks within the detail......


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
11:00:03 AM

On 22/06/2012 GoUp! wrote:
>What's the 10 year caveat bit all about - how is that relevent???

Because we are talking about here and now - not some nostalgic trip back in time. If you aren't actively using the area then you are not a 'citizen' of the place.

Just like I don't vote for who the mayor of NY is.

ARidgley

22-Jun-2012
11:03:45 AM

I can't vote because I haven't climbed at Nowra in the past ten years.

I wouldn't vote anyway because I don't have the local knowledge and appreciation. Telling me that I can't because of some arbitrary criterion makes me want to.


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
11:12:34 AM

On 22/06/2012 ARidgley wrote:
>I can't vote because I haven't climbed at Nowra in the past ten years.
>
>I wouldn't vote anyway because I don't have the local knowledge and appreciation.
> Telling me that I can't because of some arbitrary criterion makes me want
>to.

It's just trying to filter out people who have no intention of actually climbing there.


..::- Chris -::..

22-Jun-2012
11:46:32 AM

Neil I've spent 2+ weeks there (I'm mexican BTW) every year for past 16 years. What routes are you talking about or which area in general.

I'm not against it being retro-bolted I just can't think of any routes that are "that" runout ??

I'm personally not against crap bolts being replaced etc I just consider Nowra grid bolted anyway lol...

Cheers
Chris.

GoUp!

22-Jun-2012
11:56:48 AM

So let me see if I understand this correctly.......

You're the 'mayor' of Nowra trying to screen out who can vote for you and your self interests and stuff everybody else who has an opinion on the matter. What a novel take on dodging ethics - bang the drum, declare you've got the numbers (be it severely biased) and then implement your grand plan - what a sham! And for what selfish reason but to save your poor ankles!

I love Nowra but it (or maybe a I should more correctly say some of the people who climb there) seems to be a Bemuda triangle with regards to respecting previous style and acievements. Whilst you're at it, if you're going to retro then you may aswell change the name and grade aswell ....doh, thats been done recently too. Maybe this is all a take on intergeneration equality where the next mob get a chance to do rehashed first ascents....first ascent of retrobolted line after stick-clipping first half of the route ......doesn't really have the same cut and thrust of the orginal.....each to their own though.

ARidgley

22-Jun-2012
12:02:05 PM

On 22/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>It's just trying to filter out people who have no intention of actually
>climbing there.

So why not just use that as the criterion?

plugngo

22-Jun-2012
12:27:27 PM

On 22/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 22/06/2012 plugngo wrote:
>>Does anyone really NOT enjoy a run-out every now and again, if they're
>>in the mood?
>
>I love a runout - but I don't like a runout that involves hitting the
>ground. And if I wanted runouts there are plenty of other crags to visit.
>Drive 15 minutes and you are at Point Perp.

And there are plenty of routes already at Nowra if want to avoid it too. Variety in climbing is interesting. An interesting crag should have routes that are hard, easy, hard for the grade, soft, bold, safe etc.

Rusty/loose bolts are one thing (and I'll contribute some $ to anyone replacing those), but there needs to be a bit of danger available for those keen to take it, as long as it's clear what the situation is. The fact that these routes have a history and reputation already makes this more important.


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
12:51:31 PM

I'm most interested that none of you hardliners ever bothered to speak up about the years of blatant retroing done so far. I was very sad to see some of the very pleasant pure crack routes get bolted in the last few years. Routes with bomber gear the whole way.

One Day Hero

22-Jun-2012
12:54:09 PM

On 22/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I was very sad to see
>some of the very pleasant pure crack routes get bolted in the last few
>years. Routes with bomber gear the whole way.

So you protest that retrobolting with retrobolting of your own? Which cracks?


wallwombat

22-Jun-2012
12:58:09 PM

On 22/06/2012 plugngo wrote:

>Rusty/loose bolts are one thing (and I'll contribute some $ to anyone
>replacing those), but there needs to be a bit of danger available for those
>keen to take it, as long as it's clear what the situation is.

Come off it - we are talking about Nowra .

You might get your car window smashed or step on a syringe but that's as far as the danger goes.

plugngo

22-Jun-2012
1:00:44 PM

On 22/06/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>On 22/06/2012 plugngo wrote:
>
>>Rusty/loose bolts are one thing (and I'll contribute some $ to anyone
>>replacing those), but there needs to be a bit of danger available for
>those
>>keen to take it, as long as it's clear what the situation is.
>
>Come off it - we are talking about Nowra .
>
>You might get your car window smashed or step on a syringe but that's
>as far as the danger goes.

"Danger" is used loosely. The "danger" is supposed to be the argument for the retrobolting.


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
1:01:03 PM

On 22/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Which
>cracks?

Barbie Twins, A Nice Offering and several cracks just left of Broken & Barbed.


nmonteith

22-Jun-2012
1:04:32 PM

Putting people in stupid danger is the only reason I can see why retroboltign should be ok. Routes where the original bolter got the position wrong, or seemed to miss one botl when the rest of the route is totally gridded. Slap the Donkey was a great example. It was missing a third bolt (you had to clip the anchors of a route 3m to the right with a long sling as a replacement). Then the next bolt was positioned 2 foot of reach when you are standing on a ledge. People were instead having to stick clip from the ledge (10m off the deck) to clip this third bolt. If you didn't stick clip you had to commit to a hand traverse with heel hooks on slopers - with the last protection 3m below you feet just above a ledge and off to the right (the anchor of the previous route with long sling). Really dumb bolting. I always climb a route in the original dangerous style before I have ever fiddled with bolt placements or rarely retroed. That is the only way to make sure if it really is messed up bolting.

ratt07

22-Jun-2012
2:54:48 PM

I was very sad to see
>some of the very pleasant pure crack routes get bolted in the last few
>years. Routes with bomber gear the whole way.
neil just because a crack has bolts doesn't mean you have to clip them, its still a crack that will take so called bomber gear.it just means people who don't want to or aren't confident enough to place natural gear can still experience crack climbing.

There are 34 messages in this topic.