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The most arsekicking gr22 in the galaxy

Ga Ga

12-Dec-2011
12:09:51 PM

Ive done Venom, Savage journey, and Incipience.
But nothing in ACT or Ikara, so I can't comment on those two climbs.
but pipeline would be up there for me as one of the most out there 22's.
And IMO Saphire rose would be one of the nicest 22's.
nothing at Arapiles is that bad, Ive done Boy racer, tho Light fingered was memorable.


E. Wells

12-Dec-2011
12:18:15 PM

....so whos ticked Transindental meditation? Name and shame. How do you protect the thing??? (not the line,... your ass.)

prb

12-Dec-2011
12:21:53 PM

There's a 22 on a slab at The Bluff south of Adelaide that merited an article in Rock when it was finally repeated (in the original one-bolt format) after 25 years - Hopes in Slopes. It's about 28m with the bolt at 8m and a skyhook at 15m. There's no easy climbing on it. It's a different kind of challenge to most of those above.

The other 22s on The Bluff are gnarly cracks that are either a bit too wide (Red Herring), a bit too thin (Periwinkle) or end a bit too soon (Rubber Duckie)!

widewetandslippery

12-Dec-2011
12:33:24 PM

On 12/12/2011 dangermouth wrote:
>....so whos ticked Transindental meditation? Name and shame. How do you
>protect the thing??? (not the line,... your ass.)

mikl said he has done it.

I decked cos i thought putting gear so close to the deck was soft. I was wrong. Got a good way up the first bit and had a coronary peeled and went wack. Thats the first half of the route. Randy Mack got up that first section in much better style. I think we then went and sunk a few. Never met George Owens but I bloody rate him.

BIG CAMS

crunchybits1

12-Dec-2011
1:34:53 PM

I've done him, back in the dark ages, after quite a few attempts ( like maybe 20 or 30), so has Mal Grey, Rourke Muhlen, probably Rod Young,
It was the scene of many great summertime siege's

A Big hex and a long stick are the go, along with long pants and tape up to your armpits
anybody done the roof crack to the right yet?

Wendy

12-Dec-2011
2:20:52 PM

On 12/12/2011 Ga Ga wrote:
>Ive done Venom, Savage journey, and Incipience.
>But nothing in ACT or Ikara, so I can't comment on those two climbs.
>but pipeline would be up there for me as one of the most out there 22's.
>And IMO Saphire rose would be one of the nicest 22's.
>nothing at Arapiles is that bad, Ive done Boy racer, tho Light fingered
>was memorable.

I reckon Lightfingered is pretty nails too, although Simey has recently been professing it to be a mere 21. I suspect the lower bit is a little height dependant, because there's some serious desperation for me getting into the actual crack, but the crack is reasonably unrelenting after that too.

Eat more meat is also desperate, but I guess it's only desperate for such a short time, so I think of it more as just a manky one move wonder than an asskicking route.


pmonks

12-Dec-2011
3:26:19 PM

On 12/12/2011 Oldtraddad wrote:
>Transcendental meditation at zigzag. George Owens finest (apart from orangutan
>at piddo ) freed in 1977 and only two ascents I know of. Shut me down plenty!

It's a George Owens route?? Wow!! My respect for the man has just gone up several thousand-fold! TM is so outrageous looking I used to get goose bumps just from walking underneath it!

widewetandslippery

12-Dec-2011
3:34:13 PM

Note to self if I ever get my shit together to have a good shot crunch it with a big stick and big hex.nexyt point second coming p1 anyone? And just for another plug jc at orrroral

Wendy

12-Dec-2011
4:28:51 PM

49.6mm of rain in Katoomba so far today. I'd love to go and have a look at TM, but I expect it's a waterfall. Maybe I'll just go for a soggy reconaissance when the cheesecake comes out of the oven.

widewetandslippery

12-Dec-2011
4:37:13 PM

Its sn overhang babe. You,ll be right. We'rer just a bunch of softcicks. If its sodden check catch yth wind, round same grade vandf could be dry

One Day Hero

12-Dec-2011
8:12:06 PM

Hmmm, this Transendental Meditation thing sounds interesting, might have to check it out.

Sun? Shade? How big are big cams?

One Day Hero

12-Dec-2011
8:18:39 PM

On 12/12/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>nexyt point second coming p1 anyone?

Second Coming feels about 3 grades easier than a few of the "real 22's".......unless you belly-flop the mantle, cut the feet loose, kick and flap and grunt for what seems like an hour, then tear some rib cartilage as you peel off into a backflip whipper (like my british mate Ed managed to do)!!


The good Dr

12-Dec-2011
11:39:18 PM

Mentioned before - Boy Racer.

mikllaw

13-Dec-2011
8:34:19 AM

On 12/12/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Hmmm, this Transendental Meditation thing sounds interesting, might have
>to check it out.
>
>Sun? Shade? How big are big cams?

Tho I was incorrectly credited with an ascent due to the V factor*, I would like to claim I was smart enuff to avoid it. My mate Matt Dunstan did it (big fists with extra tape on the fistknuckles).
Shade
wide fists through a flared roof, so cams are wide fist. Hexes were ok too.

*(If you live long enough the venerability factor creeps in; first, you get accused of things you never did, and later, credited for virtues you never had.
I F Stone (1907-1989)

Wendy

13-Dec-2011
9:17:13 AM

TM wide fists, huh? Guess I will be in it to my shoulders then. And i'll take a lot of 4 camalots.

I've done CTW, it is a great route, but I really struggle to imagine it would be dry at the moment! It's been stupidly bloody wet. I reckon there'd be a ton of seepage - it's got all that vegetation in the first pitch, despite the big roof, must get wet from somewhere.

oldtraddad

13-Dec-2011
8:31:20 PM

On 12/12/2011 crunchybits1 wrote:
>I've done him, back in the dark ages, after quite a few attempts ( like
>maybe 20 or 30), so has Mal Grey, Rourke Muhlen, probably Rod Young,
>It was the scene of many great summertime siege's
>
>A Big hex and a long stick are the go, along with long pants and tape
>up to your armpits
>anybody done the roof crack to the right yet?
>Awesome crunch! Chrispy and obviously Matt Dunstan were the other two. The roof cracks to right have sported chalk maybe zac ado ben & lee can fill us in.
Oh righteous brothers at coke ovens is nails too, but easier than TM!


vwills

13-Dec-2011
11:15:15 PM

Although only in a small part of the Galaxy known as Victoria, Triptych (pitch 2 especially) and Hellspite (I turned into a frothing maniac as cautioned in guide) both kicked my arse when I thought they would have suited me -ie fingery and no hand jams. Probably not in the league of some of the other horrors mentioned as I could conceive of doing them one day if I climbed more and worked less.

mabsydney

14-Dec-2011
2:06:53 PM

Jezebel for sure - it's nails.


davetheyounger

14-Dec-2011
2:14:52 PM

Also from Vic I would add Stone Ocean at Bundaleer in its original grade 22 form as worth a mention

Wendy

14-Dec-2011
7:56:20 PM

So, i did go for that soggy wander to check out TM. And here it is:

Yes, it was a waterfall, and with no chance of drying up in the few days I would have been able to hang around for. But it looks great! Like a more desperate version of Genuine Wage Overhang. I'm definitely up for a gnarly 22s trip to the Blueys (at a drier time of year!). It almost looks like a 4 big bro could be handy.

Bad Moon Rising, a bit left of it, also looks great, but will need a bit of Damo's gardening skills.

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