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The most arsekicking gr22 in the galaxy |
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10-Dec-2011 10:55:24 PM
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I've noticed recently that there seem to be quite a few evil, nasty, desperate things lurking at this supposedly benign grade.
Has anyone got nominations for the biggest spanking on offer at 22?
My list of contenders so far is;
-Savage Journey, Organ Pipes
-Jezebel, Ikara
-Julius Caesar, Orroral (A.C.T.)
-Venom, Frog (haven't tried it, but it looks shocking)
-Incipience, Freycinet (also haven't tried, its got a big rep)
Victorians seeking to suggest Araps routes should choose ones harder than Reaper and Squeakeasy, as they are total piss compared to the list above.
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11-Dec-2011 1:05:24 AM
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Ha... Jezebel is venemous at the extreme... but brilliant climbing! Hard to think of much that Ive tried that would compare down here in Vic. Squeakeasy is truelly a lot lot easier. Boy Racer? Havent been on it.
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11-Dec-2011 8:43:59 AM
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I'm not sure about the galaxy - I haven't even seen a guide for Alpha Centauri - but wasnt there a couple of Claw 22's that were regraded to 28 when reasonable people decided to write the guide? I don't remember where or when but I would have thought most of those above fall into the same category of the first ascentionist having a laugh except no guidebook author decided to give them proper grades
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11-Dec-2011 8:44:12 AM
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On Edge at piddo and Brother K at pole 28 ( we couldn't even get to the first draw)
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11-Dec-2011 9:30:36 AM
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I think 23 was Claws BS sandbag grade.
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11-Dec-2011 10:36:59 AM
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On 11/12/2011 benjenga wrote:
>On Edge at piddo and Brother K at pole 28 ( we couldn't even get to the
>first draw)
Have you even seen any of the other routes to be comparing On Edge???
Boy Racer is pretty nails.
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11-Dec-2011 10:42:57 AM
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On 11/12/2011 rodw wrote:
>I think 23 was Claws BS sandbag grade.
My bad.
Not sure that they count because they are poxy and shit, but there has gotta be a hundred and one small shitty routes of any grade between 19 and 23 at Nowra that nobody ever does because they are: A) shit and poxy B) three or four grades undergraded.
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11-Dec-2011 4:08:09 PM
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How about Black Road and Monarch at Buff? I haven't been on Monarch, but any grade 22 offwidth granite roof surely has to be desperate? Plus it's followed by 15m or so of unprotectable grade 17 squeeze chimney. Not to mention the chances of it being even more filthy than JC from not seeing any action in 20 years. Ditto Black Rd - which I did follow once in the dark ages and got completely spanked. I might give it another run this summer on the theory that I've gotten better at this stuff over the years and surely it can't be a bad as I remember.
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11-Dec-2011 7:09:32 PM
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havent tried it but Pipeline at Ben Lomond might be up there?
Incipience isnt technically hard for the grade, just committing
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11-Dec-2011 9:42:31 PM
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Gorgoin rgs dogface. The 22 pitchl witch gives the grade is the soft oine
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11-Dec-2011 9:53:00 PM
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JC is nails and a great route. JC beat me
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11-Dec-2011 11:11:42 PM
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On 11/12/2011 benjenga wrote:
>On Edge at piddo.......
Hahahahahahahaha
On Edge is rather tame in the scheme of things. Try one of the fuchers on my list!
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12-Dec-2011 12:25:39 AM
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Eat More Meat is fairly disobliging. The business is not that long but it's stout.
Suicide City at Frog is about 24, the first section anyway.
I've done Venom 3 or 4 times and don't find it that bad. It was always 21.
Savage Journey is great! I like that size though. Gets you breathing.
I didn't find On Edge that hard just a tad exciting.
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12-Dec-2011 5:26:13 AM
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Andrew's Bulge at Banger
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12-Dec-2011 6:51:56 AM
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Transcendental meditation at zigzag. George Owens finest (apart from orangutan at piddo ) freed in 1977 and only two ascents I know of. Shut me down plenty!
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12-Dec-2011 8:08:42 AM
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I've still got a lump on my back from falling off that
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12-Dec-2011 8:46:15 AM
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On 11/12/2011 Olbert wrote:
>On 11/12/2011 rodw wrote:
>>I think 23 was Claws BS sandbag grade.
>My bad.
>
>Not sure that they count because they are poxy and shit, but there has
>gotta be a hundred and one small shitty routes of any grade between 19
>and 23 at Nowra that nobody ever does because they are: A) shit and poxy
>B) three or four grades undergraded.
hunted child at SC would be a perfect example of that
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12-Dec-2011 9:35:36 AM
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Have to agree that Savage journey is one of the more brutal.22s ive been on.
A german friend of mine nearly vomited at the belay and he generally climbs about 10 grades harder!
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12-Dec-2011 11:20:52 AM
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Its been a good few years but I remember Hard Rain at Buffalo being full value....
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12-Dec-2011 11:37:22 AM
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Hard Rain is awesome, but it's not in the same league!
Mind you, I'll give it more credit than On Edge.
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